Jet Performance Quadrajet JET Performance anyone gotz?

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legend57

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Rob
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
400
When searching for a Qjet, I ended up going with National Carburetors #ND4528, based on my truck's specs (1976 K20, HD Emission, 400 engine). I installed it on my freshly rebuilt 400 and it started right up and idles like a dream. When I blip the throttle, the response is immediate, without any stumbling. I haven't driven it on the road, so I'm sure adjustments will be needed, but out of the box, I'm very happy so far.

Note, I installed a Carter inline electric fuel pump. The best part is when I turn the ignition "ON", the 400 fires IMMEDIATELY. It starts almost faster than I can release the key. I've used that Carter pump before and it was very reliable.
 

JD Miller

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1981
Truck Model
K20 silverado
Engine Size
350
When searching for a Qjet, I ended up going with National Carburetors #ND4528, based on my truck's specs (1976 K20, HD Emission, 400 engine). I installed it on my freshly rebuilt 400 and it started right up and idles like a dream. When I blip the throttle, the response is immediate, without any stumbling. I haven't driven it on the road, so I'm sure adjustments will be needed, but out of the box, I'm very happy so far.

Note, I installed a Carter inline electric fuel pump. The best part is when I turn the ignition "ON", the 400 fires IMMEDIATELY. It starts almost faster than I can release the key. I've used that Carter pump before and it was very reliable.
I was looking at National Carbs website several times. I was thinking of buying from them rather than Jet Performance. Less money and Might even be a better core and the inside parts not hacked up like Ive heard Jet does.

Most the core / junk-yard Q-jet Carbs for sale on ebay , for rebuilding, are corroded/rusted garbage, nothing salvageable
 

arborvitian

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Michael
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Truck Model
C30
Engine Size
350
Arborvitian, Keep us posted on getting you truck running good with that Jet Qjet. Hope you get it running good :waytogo: .
.
So far, no improvement. I took the truck to work the other day. I fired it up, and it idled like it had a big cam in it. Blat blat blat shudder stumble. It never did that before. Got it fired up and ignored the fast idle. Drove it to work. I figured by the time I got to work, that stuff would have sorted itself out, but no dice. At the stop sign after a long highway cruise, it was idling stupid high. On the return trip, I had more time to baby it, and I managed to blip the throttle hard enough and often enough to finally kick it down to behaving sensibly.

Could the choke be getting stuck partly closed? It feels like it's stuck on the fast idle, but the butterfly seems to be wide open every time I look. Maybe it's 10% closed or something.

It made the trip, which is in the win column for a 50 year old truck with an original motor, but it burned way too much gas, and I was nervous the whole time. It needs more work.

The tach goes flaky around 3,000 RPM under load, and I don't think it's a signaling problem. It could be a fuel delivery problem or an ignition problem. I know my total mechanical advance at 3000 RPM is only 26° with a base timing of 12°, so I'm going with the theory that I have ignition problems. I have a new Pertronix distributor to bolt on whenever I get a day when the weather doesn't suck.

After that, I guess I'm going to get out Cliff's book and start going through my shiny Stage 1 to figure out what's wrong with it. This will probably still be faster than rebuilding my original carburetor, but believe me, I've got that thing in a safe place. If a bucket of carb dunk didn't cost $55, I would have already dunked it in preparation to see if I am better at rebuilding carburetors at the age of 52 than I was when I was 18. Considering how badly the last carb I rebuilt ran, I'm reluctant to drop $55 on a bucket of solvent, but I am more patient now, and even have a hobby machine shop.

My Qjet acted similarly. The power valve was stuck open. Don't know why. Don't recall of any backfires or similar events, but it was stuck. If yours was set too high or wrongly jetted, might expect similar results
Power valve. That ended up being kind of a rabbit hole for my thought process. Could something just be getting stuck?

I had a lot of trash in the gas tank initially, and ended up clogging the fuel filter very quickly. The last filter I took apart was full of an impressive amount of rust, so I installed a new gas tank at that point. What if some trash made it into the carburettor?

It's worth pulling it off and going through it to have a look. I think I'll wait and see what happens with the new ignition first though. I feel like I probably do have a real ignition problem. Not enough mechanical advance seems like a definite, and the inside of the distributor is seriously rusty and crappy looking. Hotter spark won't hurt anything, and my points are going out of adjustment within 200 miles, so something in there just ain't right. I'll swap all that, then start over setting the timing and idle, and then see what's going on after that.

If I get a day to work on it before spring. No heated garage for this ice tree mechanic.
 
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JD Miller

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K20 silverado
Engine Size
350
arborvitian, there is a little swinging weight between the elec or heated choke housing and the carb on the throttle shaft that sounds like its sticking or the choke needs to be loosened and adjusted so it goes off sooner.

Maybe
 

arborvitian

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C30
Engine Size
350
arborvitian, there is a little swinging weight between the elec or heated choke housing and the carb on the throttle shaft that sounds like its sticking or the choke needs to be loosened and adjusted so it goes off sooner.

I finally saw what was happening, and you're right. That little weight is getting stuck. It swings down part of the way, and sticks there. It doesn't do it every time, and I haven't quite worked out the pattern, or what could be making it stick. Oil didn't help. It should be a fixable problem. I haven't really studied it yet, because I was busy setting timing after changing the distributor. (The good news is my timing curve is working correctly. The bad news is it has just been a comedy of errors. It fired right up after changing the distributor, and all the wires, which made me proud. It didn't start the next time I tried, because I knocked the coil wire off. Of course I did, right? Fixed that, and it would barely run, because one of the spark plug wires popped off. Fixed that, and now it almost dies under any kind of acceleration, so I must have crossed two of the wires, I'm thinking. Sheesh.)
 

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