Is 1.5* Positive Camber Too Much - If So, How Do I Adjust?

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1987 GMC Jimmy

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I took the Jimmy to get aligned the other day. I was aware that aligning a solid front axle is different than IFS, but I was under the impression that toe adjustment is normal, and that while camber adjustment isn't conventional, there are methods to bring it close to spec. Well, the only alignment place nearby said that he adjusted the toe, but the camber reading was what I mentioned above, and he didn't know how to adjust or if it could be adjusted. What do I need to do? I just payed a lot of money for new tires, and I don't want them to be eaten up because some local yokel said there was nothing I could really do.
 

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With this if it has one. This is a 91 Burb rear.

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Mine only has one on the drivers top ball joint.
 

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You have to use an adjustable piece in the upper balljoints. But it can rotate over time and sometimes not recommended if camber is just a bit off. 1.5* might be enough to be worth the trouble and a good alignment shop should know very well how to set camber on a front solid axle.(or have a computer that does).
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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You have to use an adjustable piece in the upper balljoints. But it can rotate over time and sometimes not recommended if camber is just a bit off. 1.5* might be enough to be worth the trouble and a good alignment shop should know very well how to set camber on a front solid axle.(or have a computer that does).
Good info. The shop has the fancy alignment machine, and they did the toe, camber, and caster on my Caprice with no problems so I figured that they should be okay with the Jimmy. I'm probably gonna have to venture farther to get a proper alignment.
 

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Double check your ball joints, they can cause bad camber reading. Generally before alignment a shop will check all the wear items for play.
 

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Often they call it a camber kit or ball joint adjustable sleeve.

Good info. The shop has the fancy alignment machine, and they did the toe, camber, and caster on my Caprice with no problems so I figured that they should be okay with the Jimmy. I'm probably gonna have to venture farther to get a proper alignment.
 

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I've checked for play on the front, and there's none to speak of.
 

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Was just mentioning. I thought mine were good until the alignment shop showed me otherwise using a longer pry bar
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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Just to clarify, you guys are talking about those big castle nuts right on the very top of there, correct?
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With this if it has one. This is a 91 Burb rear.

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Mine only has one on the drivers top ball joint.

Just to clarify, you guys are talking about those big castle nuts right on the very top of there, correct?
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If you look at the first pic again, notice the hex underneath the castlenut. Thats the adjustment that isn't installed on yours.
 

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Yours does not have the adjustment. You would take the nut out, press the balljoint down, then remove the plain sleeve using special socket. Then use an adjuatable one, install and press the balljoint back per the manual(there is a sequence procedure that I don't exactly remember)
Just to clarify, you guys are talking about those big castle nuts right on the very top of there, correct?
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Hi . new member old guy here. There is another way to set camber on a solid axle rig. Moog and others make shims to install behind the spindle. You need to get the front end checked and have them do a print out of the measurements and then figure out how much you need to change it. 1.5 degrees camber is way too much. I try to shoot for 0 or .25 degrees and maybe an eighth toe in. this moog shim is thicker on one edge and goes over the spindle bolts then the spindle. This also might give you a chance to clean inspect and repack your wheel bearings and the spindle bearing. This shim setup seems to work better for me and the change is more positive. sorry about the late post
 

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Hi . new member old guy here. There is another way to set camber on a solid axle rig. Moog and others make shims to install behind the spindle. You need to get the front end checked and have them do a print out of the measurements and then figure out how much you need to change it. 1.5 degrees camber is way too much. I try to shoot for 0 or .25 degrees and maybe an eighth toe in. this moog shim is thicker on one edge and goes over the spindle bolts then the spindle. This also might give you a chance to clean inspect and repack your wheel bearings and the spindle bearing. This shim setup seems to work better for me and the change is more positive. sorry about the late post
Good call on the shims. But lol me you said they are for small corrections.
 

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