Ignition HELP! [solved]

[84c10Tony]

Or, one could go to youtube, "Setting Ignition Timing" video, Advanced Auto Parts, pre roadkill days and watch David Freiburger e'splain to duit likea thees.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Never assume you're on the compression stroke, be 100% sure. As for lining up the oil pump drive, the screwdriver you're using, you can use a sharpie to mark the handle of how the blade is oriented. Just turn the oil pump drive about a half position before #1, like in between 1 and 2 (counter-clockwise). I've seen people try to wire one up 180 out and it never seems to work out just right. If the misfire and cranking sounds funny, not like a normal crank, then the timing chain jumped a tooth and your compression is going out the exhaust and it'll never hit/run like that. But if you verified good compression on all cylinders with a compression tester I would guess it's just 180 out.

 

[spanky55amg]

Never assume you're on the compression stroke, be 100% sure. As for lining up the oil pump drive, the screwdriver you're using, you can use a sharpie to mark the handle of how the blade is oriented. Just turn the oil pump drive about a half position before #1, like in between 1 and 2 (counter-clockwise). I've seen people try to wire one up 180 out and it never seems to work out just right. If the misfire and cranking sounds funny, not like a normal crank, then the timing chain jumped a tooth and your compression is going out the exhaust and it'll never hit/run like that. But if you verified good compression on all cylinders with a compression tester I would guess it's just 180 out.

compression and cranking sound normal. And it cranks strong. So I know compress is good and cranking is too.


And I guess the part that has me scratching my head is that on the first crank, it could misfire but at least acts like its firing and going to start.

Every time after the first time, it doesnt even misfire. It just cranks.

 

[spanky55amg]

What Mr Marty said, and ffs, if that is an 84 engine, or close, forget about where shaft is for the moment, get to tdc on compression stroke, do NOT move crankshaft, make SURE timing mark on balancer is about 0 if not, double check why.
(use a dist without the vacuum advance, like what it came with oem, no cheapo, not also fits, the right hei without vac adv. providing computer still functioning with No shorts in wires etc.)

I did this, and there is a picture of it being right at TDC. And I have used 3 distributors. What are the odds all three are bad?

Drop dist. in with a drop of oil on O ring and new gasket, make sure rotor points ONLY to #1 cylinder, if it starts to clock to far, pull it back out a little and turn it back a little more (maybe a degree or two for a tooth) so when it settles, it is ONLY pointing to #1 cylinder period.
Do not second guess, overthink, reinvent the wheel, or re f'n wire sh$t...take your time.
Make sure rotor is on correctly too. When this is done, make sure coil connections are right, make sure wires plugging under dist cap are correct and prongs not bent for missed connections, undercap connections are now closest to drivers fender, not 10-20 degrees off.
Also, lightly finger tighten hold down clamp, crank engine, when even close, if dist is not all the way down, it will suck right down...then you can torque down after timing.
So forget about looking to see where the pump shaft is, or aligning it with dizzy etc...Mr.M, Crazy or 74 said the same stuff, hmm,...we be smokin' same sh$t man.

I was told to not do this ****, as this is what I have done before.

I am not a Doctor nor play one on TV, use this info at yer own 'fn risk and no 'fn around...
Now for the fun, have your wife read this to you, and my other post too.

The day the wife gets on a car forum, actually reads anything, and doesnt glaze over, will be the day I sell my cars and just give up on life.

 

[4WDKC]

Ok. So tonight with pictures.

I put the engine at TDC and I assume on compression.

Then took note of what would be cyl 1.

Installed #1 spark plug.

Wired up spark plug wires as to what would be #1.

Tried to start and it sound like it was about to turn over but just misfired a few times. Stopped cranking. Started cranking and no misfires no run.

Tested voltage at battery. 12.2

Tested at coil 12.01

Tested while cranking 10.01
This should be enough to start the engine.

Ive always heard it needs 11.5v while cranking to provide proper spark, anyway you could test with a relay and direct wire to battery?

 

[spanky55amg]

Ive always heard it needs 11.5v while cranking to provide proper spark, anyway you could test with a relay and direct wire to battery?

Im having an old shop buddy come by tomorrow after work. This way I have another tech help me to make sure I get this timed. One I KNOW its in time, then I can verify the problem is somewhere else. If all else fails, we are going to jump the truck and verify voltage/amperage isnt the issue.

 

[4WDKC]

Im having an old shop buddy come by tomorrow after work. This way I have another tech help me to make sure I get this timed. One I KNOW its in time, then I can verify the problem is somewhere else. If all else fails, we are going to jump the truck and verify voltage/amperage isnt the issue.

If you have a battery charger/tender connect it till he gets there, it should help with the trouble shooting before trying to jump it.

 

[spanky55amg]

If you have a battery charger/tender connect it till he gets there, it should help with the trouble shooting before trying to jump it.

Sadly I dont. I wish I did. Sometimes I miss working in the shop. Id just steal a jump box over night, if I still worked there.

 

[4WDKC]

I know its a pita to get in these trucks but if you are able to, i actually climb under the hood and have my feet on the frame when I changed my dist. really makes me rethink the lift kit on it.

 

[Georgeb]

Glad you got some help.

 

[spanky55amg]

Fuuuuuck me. Ok.
1. I'm retarded. I really am. I never though timing this damn thing would be so hard. It took two of us, but at least with another hand, I could actually find TDC of the compression stroke.
2. We tried multiple ways to get this timed at 16° but with the vacuum pod, my base timing is 10-12° and we weren't going to try a 10th time. We were trying to stab the dist so that we could get more timing but it just couldn't.
3. We had to bump up the idle. Now previous times starting this, I had a vacuum leak at the back of the carb. So that let the idle high. No vacuum leaks, and the idle was low. Fixed that by ear.
4. After going to dinner this SOB wouldn't start again. No crank like the battery was dead. Since the wife drove separate from my friend and I, we got a ride back and drove his truck over. (A 1986 turbo 4Runner, I think. It's pretty rare.) anyways got back to the truck, cranked slowly but ran. I just wanted to get home and while trying to power brake it at the light, which it did then died, it wouldn't start again. Found the battery to starter wire is loose but the stupid connect to make it a top post battery, wouldn't tighten with the correded terminal. So I'll be replacing the starter cable and terminal.

And I think everything will be fine.

Thanks for your patience, I will accept any kicks in the ass.

 

[74 Shortbed]

Fuuuuuck me

Hmmmm, no thanks I'll pass.

I will accept any kicks in the ass.

Consider it done.

 

[spanky55amg]

Hmmmm, no thanks I'll pass.


Consider it done.

God this thing was a bitch. And it's still not where I want it. I'm still having issues with the secondaries bogging down but I think that might be improper 700r4 cable adjustment. I have all 4 gears but it doesn't seem to drop down a gear like it should. That's for another post though, after a battery cable.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

I will accept any kicks in the ass.

 

[spanky55amg]

I need a few more. We ended up stabbing the dist at 12 ish degrees BTDC. And we couldn't adjust the dist anymore. And I'm not going to **** with it anymore. It runs. So as much as it was my fault, I don't know why the timing is so far off. This just needs to last till an LSx or Duramax swap.