I bought a 1984 and don’t know what to do???

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Strick

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Location
Dunn, NC
First Name
Harold
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
C20 Crew
Engine Size
350
Welcome from NC.
 

Kevin Hays

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Somerville,TN
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Kevin
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
Chevy
Engine Size
5.0 305
Im really struggling with direction of body work! Did you do alot. I took it to a local body shop; he suggested take cab off truck and have it blasted. I guess that would be a frame off retore?? Not sure by budget will allow that and I don't want to work on it for 5 years.
 

SirRobyn0

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In the woods in Western Washington
First Name
Rob
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
305
@Kevin Hays What to do. Well that's all up to you. Lots of folks are going to have different ideas. I know what I would do, if that 305 is in good health I'd get it going and run it. Why because I love these old trucks and the old technology in them. My truck has a 305 in, and when it's done I'll likely put a 350 in it, maybe possibly I might do a vortec but only if a vortec were to fall in my lap for cheap. No way I'd ever LS it. To me when new technology like an LS is put in one of these trucks it ruins the old school flavor. But that's just me and we are all different. In the end it's your truck and should do what you want.
 

Grit dog

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Todd
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1986, 1977
Truck Model
K20, C10
Engine Size
454, 350
Im really struggling with direction of body work! Did you do alot. I took it to a local body shop; he suggested take cab off truck and have it blasted. I guess that would be a frame off retore?? Not sure by budget will allow that and I don't want to work on it for 5 years.

It would take ALOT more rust than that thing looks like it has to necessitate pulling the cab, short of turning it into OCD perfection.
It runs, it’s straight and original and you have a lift kit sitting in the corner.
Slap a lift and some big tires on it, polish it up and let him drive it! Trust me, it’ll get more smiles from the kid behind the wheel than in 500 pieces in the shop if you’re not prepared to tear into it.
Especially in your case where it sounds like the bodywork is kinda daunting to you.
You can continue upgrading or fixing it up mechanically and maintain driveability. And in general, a backyard resto should start with doing the mechanical work first anyway.
Nice truck btw! And very desirable being a short box.
 

Kevin Hays

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Location
Somerville,TN
First Name
Kevin
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
Chevy
Engine Size
5.0 305
@Kevin Hays What to do. Well that's all up to you. Lots of folks are going to have different ideas. I know what I would do, if that 305 is in good health I'd get it going and run it. Why because I love these old trucks and the old technology in them. My truck has a 305 in, and when it's done I'll likely put a 350 in it, maybe possibly I might do a vortec but only if a vortec were to fall in my lap for cheap. No way I'd ever LS it. To me when new technology like an LS is put in one of these trucks it ruins the old school flavor. But that's just me and we are all different. In the end it's your truck and should do what you want.
That was my initial plan; The 305 does run good, carb floods, but I bought a new edelbrock carburetor to swap out the factory one. The old timer that owned it prior has capped off all kinds if vacuum lines on the carb and I know nothing about carbs. I have a friend that was going to swap it out for me, and then go from there. Its hard to start now and once you drive somewhere it will flood out and leave you stranded. That's what started the "if it was mine I would LS swap it"; but I agree with you about keeping it old school! Thats why I bought it, my first vehicle was a 1984 GMC Sierra, with a 305 and 4 speed manual(it was a beast).
 

SirRobyn0

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Rob
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
305
That was my initial plan; The 305 does run good, carb floods, but I bought a new edelbrock carburetor to swap out the factory one. The old timer that owned it prior has capped off all kinds if vacuum lines on the carb and I know nothing about carbs. I have a friend that was going to swap it out for me, and then go from there. Its hard to start now and once you drive somewhere it will flood out and leave you stranded. That's what started the "if it was mine I would LS swap it"; but I agree with you about keeping it old school! Thats why I bought it, my first vehicle was a 1984 GMC Sierra, with a 305 and 4 speed manual(it was a beast).
Remember if your swapping to and Edelbrock, that if your truck has the 700R4 transmission the geometry on the TV cable has to be correct or you can damage the transmission.
 

Camar068

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1986
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K10/LM7 5.3/4L60e/np208/3.73/32"
Engine Size
10 yrs Air Force
Find a welder that will weld in the panels you need installed. Don't go to a big shop, look for a smaller exhaust shop or something of that nature. Typically, around here anyway, if you find the right shop and give them some room on time, they will do it for far less...and possibly a better job than some of the bigger shops (little shop welder stickin' it to the Big Name guys.....those are the guys I look for....they need the business more than the big shops).
 

dvdswan

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Dave
Truck Year
1978
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K10
Engine Size
350
Welcome to the site. Take your time, do your research, and fix it up. Not everything needs a LS swap. You can find a mildly built 350 for near the same price as a stock one.
 

Asgeir

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Coty
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
383
Hello and welcome. I kinda did the same thing, bought my 1984 c10 with a 305, got it to start and run, but it kept dyeing, had a bad valve train tick. I decided to make a 383 stroker.
 

andybflo

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Andrew
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1986
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C-10 Silverado
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5.3 LM7/4L60E
Greetings from WNY!

I'd say take it in a few doses. For bodywork, identify your big problem areas. Are they structural, or cosmetic? Do you have a place to keep her out of the weather if you do get the body done? If not, it's throwing money away on the cosmetics in the Northeast.

Addresss the areas of rot where replacement parts/easy access isn't available. Fix structure. Deal with the pretty after you have a solid truck.

Regarding driveline, what's the truck's mission? You doing cross country hauling? Driving on sunny Saturday afternoons for ice cream/cruise ins? If you're putting on serious miles, looking to tow haul, and have solid mechanical skills I'd recommend a swap.

If any, and I mean any, if those aren't your mission a Gen1 SBC is great. They're still in several of my cars, and work well. But, before you buy one from anyone, get familiar with them if yours is tired. Lots of people slap them together with junk and worn parts (remember the newest GM castings are two decades plus old, perimeter bolt Gen1s are knocking on 40+ yo), don't jump from one bad piece to another.

Nothing needs to happen today. Drive it. Figure out what it needs, and what you want from it. I've restored a half dozen with SBCs. Another ten or so (including my own '86 C10) with LS swaps. It's a well documented path if you choose to go there. But it's not necessary, it's all what you want to do and want from the truck.

Either way, nice ride, and enjoy it!
 

geocrasher

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I like the old saying "Run what ya brung!" in other words just keep what you have, work on one thing at a time. If you can, spend some time going around the truck and make a list of things it needs, and then prioritize that list. Then, one thing at a time. New carb is great and all, but what about rebuilding the one that's on there and then replacing all the vacuum lines and making sure they're routed correctly? And who cares if it's a 305, 350, or whatever. It'll get down the road. Just get it running, driving, and dependable, then work on the cosmetics as time, money, and skill allow. This thread is full of great suggestions about that stuff.
 

78C10BigTen

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pennsylvannia
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Ted
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1978
Truck Model
C10 BIG TEN
Engine Size
350
I like the old saying "Run what ya brung!" in other words just keep what you have, work on one thing at a time. If you can, spend some time going around the truck and make a list of things it needs, and then prioritize that list. Then, one thing at a time. New carb is great and all, but what about rebuilding the one that's on there and then replacing all the vacuum lines and making sure they're routed correctly? And who cares if it's a 305, 350, or whatever. It'll get down the road. Just get it running, driving, and dependable, then work on the cosmetics as time, money, and skill allow. This thread is full of great suggestions about that stuff.


In the words of David Freiburger....

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