Hub question

[Ron Sebastian]

I had a annoying shake at about 45 mph. After checking everything, I lifted the front and was able to move one of the wheels in and out. I figured the bearing was bad. I dug into it and didn't see anything bad. I retorqued everything back together with some new grease. Now the shake is gone but the hub gets warm. The other side stays cool. Is this an issue or will it be ok?

 

[dvdswan]

Did you repack the bearings?

 

[mtnmankev]

One side warm and the other cool is definitely abnormal.
I would disassemble both sides (one at a time) and do a very thorough examination for wear and binding/worn parts.

 

[Bextreme04]

I had a annoying shake at about 45 mph. After checking everything, I lifted the front and was able to move one of the wheels in and out. I figured the bearing was bad. I dug into it and didn't see anything bad. I retorqued everything back together with some new grease. Now the shake is gone but the hub gets warm. The other side stays cool. Is this an issue or will it be ok?

How did you assemble the hub? What torque did you use? Getting hot means you probably overtightened it.

 

[Bextreme04]

This is the procedure I have seen and used.


1. torque inner nut to 50 ft. lbs. while spinning the bearing hub to seat the bearings.
2. back off the inner nut and retorque to 35 ft. lbs., again, while spinning the bearing hub.
3. back off inner nut 3/8's of a turn.
4. install washer.
5. install outer nut and torque to 150 ft. lbs. while spinning bearing hub.

 

[ali_c20]

This is the procedure I have seen and used.


1. torque inner nut to 50 ft. lbs. while spinning the bearing hub to seat the bearings.
2. back off the inner nut and retorque to 35 ft. lbs., again, while spinning the bearing hub.
3. back off inner nut 3/8's of a turn.
4. install washer.
5. install outer nut and torque to 150 ft. lbs. while spinning bearing hub.

I use the same procedure, always worked. I don't spin the hub when installing the outer nut.

 

[Ron Sebastian]

Thank you guys. I did not go any further than the inner adjusting nut. I removed all the old grease so I could see the bearing and nothing looked abnormal. I did not want to disturb the bearing, so I reinstalled the inner adjusting nut till it was snug (no specific torque), and there was no movement or wobble when pulling on the hub. It spun freely. Then I replaced the lock washer and snugged the outer lock nut to 160 Lbs. Repacked the hub with new grease and replaced the locking hub assembly. I was going to replace the races and bearings but wanted to see if just this little job would help the shake I had and it did. I was thinking that the new grease was the cause of it being warm. Again did not want to disturb the bearings as who knows how long they have been like that. I have no problem replacing everything or leaving it until it becomes a problem again.

 

[Bextreme04]

Thank you guys. I did not go any further than the inner adjusting nut. I removed all the old grease so I could see the bearing and nothing looked abnormal. I did not want to disturb the bearing, so I reinstalled the inner adjusting nut till it was snug (no specific torque), and there was no movement or wobble when pulling on the hub. It spun freely. Then I replaced the lock washer and snugged the outer lock nut to 160 Lbs. Repacked the hub with new grease and replaced the locking hub assembly. I was going to replace the races and bearings but wanted to see if just this little job would help the shake I had and it did. I was thinking that the new grease was the cause of it being warm. Again did not want to disturb the bearings as who knows how long they have been like that. I have no problem replacing everything or leaving it until it becomes a problem again.

Its getting hot because that is too tight. You are going to destroy the bearings like that. Also, the only place that should be "packed" with grease is the bearing itself. You should only have a light coat of grease on the hub locking components. If you took it down to the inner locking nut, I would have at lease pulled the outer bearing out and inspected/cleaned it before repacking and installing it properly.

If you don't have a torque wrench, you can do it by tightening the heck out of it and then back off, tighten to snug, then back off 1/4-3/8" and set the lock washer. It should have an ever-so-slight click of movement in and out if you yank on it once it's tight. This is the end play that MUST be in the parts so that it gets the right amount of bearing pre-load once it warms up.

 

[Ron Sebastian]

Thanks Bextreme, I'm on it!

 

[scrap--metal]

It should have an ever-so-slight click of movement in and out if you yank on it once it's tight. This is the end play that MUST be in the parts so that it gets the right amount of bearing pre-load once it warms up.

^^^ This is always worth checking after you get the bearings installed and torqued. If there's no play, take it apart and do it again. I think I remember reading a spec. of 0.005" - 0.010" but don't quote me on that. Regardless of the correct value, there should be a little play.

 

[Snoots]

Did you use a high-temp grease? Chassis grease won't get the job done.

 

[Ron Sebastian]

Yup, Hi temp grease. It's all good now. They both get a little warm, not hot, after many miles of highway driving. I'm happy.