How do YOU set timing?

[GTX63]

I'm not ancient, but I still grew up in a time when the old timers could build and tune an engine without a book, spec sheet, or proper terminology. These were guys with street cars running 11s and 12s on a 1/4 mile drag strip. They could work their magic on 427s with open headers, multiple carbs, blowers, and prove their work on the dyno.
They would be lost with current technology. They wouldn't have a clue using google and I wouldn't want them around an LS swap, but they were the kings in their day, and some of their wisdom still lives on.
All I am saying is don't be afraid to use the rudimentary shade tree stuff because it comes in handy at the worst times.

 

[Grit dog]

Learning timing by ear when I was a kid, from my 1990 version of YouTube, we called him Andy (that was actually his name, my grandfathers buddy from way back), was one of the more valuable things he or anyone has taught me.
Those lessons cannot be replaced. But I’m sure trying like hell to duplicate them today for my kids and their buddies…
Only thing to add is keep that loctite in the drawer and not on the hold down bolt. Either you left it loose or maybe the hood down clamp doesn’t quite play right with the lip on the distributor and it isn’t quite tight when the bolt is tight. I recall some issue like that from a long time ago and likely with a bunch of mismatched parts cobbing some old grease bomb engine together.

 

[brooksman9]

I know the chrome ones don't tighten well

 

[ChuckN]

Either you left it loose or maybe the hood down clamp doesn’t quite play right with the lip on the distributor

Yeah, I’m not sure the hold down clamp is shaped right. Looks like some shiny aftermarket piece that someone put on there, probably junk. First chance I get I’m going to get an OEM part. I know it was tight at one point, because I remember clearly doing it after setting the timing over the winter with my buddy Jeremy.

As far as the loctite goes, the only one I’d consider using is 242 or 243 blue, just to battle vibration. It’s easily removed, and doesn’t really “lock” anything on. We use it all the time on mountain bike parts that we don’t want to come off with vibration, but need to be able to remove easily. But yeah, shouldn’t need it to begin with.

 

[SquareRoot]

I set my timing with my fingertip while sitting in the air conditioning behind the wheel. Lol

 

[ChuckN]

I set my timing with my fingertip while sitting in the air conditioning behind the wheel. Lol

Nice work! Did you break a sweat? Lol…

I’ve chatted with Bluex about a Sniper setup. Eventually I’ll get one, but I want to save for a stall converter and a 3.42 posi.

Or I’ll just hold off on all of that and save for the bodywork/respray.

 

[SirRobyn0]

I'm not ancient, but I still grew up in a time when the old timers could build and tune an engine without a book, spec sheet, or proper terminology. These were guys with street cars running 11s and 12s on a 1/4 mile drag strip. They could work their magic on 427s with open headers, multiple carbs, blowers, and prove their work on the dyno.
They would be lost with current technology. They wouldn't have a clue using google and I wouldn't want them around an LS swap, but they were the kings in their day, and some of their wisdom still lives on.
All I am saying is don't be afraid to use the rudimentary shade tree stuff because it comes in handy at the worst times.

Oh ya I completely agree. And to that point about it coming in handy. I drove my truck 300 miles today (@Grit dog this ties into you) and the heater core is seeping a little. I just haven't found the time to change it and I'm hoping it'll last though September so I brought my hose pincher pliers with me so I could clamp the hoses off if it let loose on me. Same thing with the timing. If for some reason my distributor had to have been pulled 150 miles from home I would certainly stab the new one in, time it by ear and runner home.

 

[ChuckN]

Oh ya I completely agree. And to that point about it coming in handy. I drove my truck 300 miles today (@Grit dog this ties into you) and the heater core is seeping a little. I just haven't found the time to change it and I'm hoping it'll last though September so I brought my hose pincher pliers with me so I could clamp the hoses off if it let loose on me. Same thing with the timing. If for some reason my distributor had to have been pulled 150 miles from home I would certainly stab the new one in, time it by ear and runner home.

Sounds like an episode of Vice Grip Garage in the making.

 

[Grit dog]

Oh ya I completely agree. And to that point about it coming in handy. I drove my truck 300 miles today (@Grit dog this ties into you) and the heater core is seeping a little. I just haven't found the time to change it and I'm hoping it'll last though September so I brought my hose pincher pliers with me so I could clamp the hoses off if it let loose on me. Same thing with the timing. If for some reason my distributor had to have been pulled 150 miles from home I would certainly stab the new one in, time it by ear and runner home.

IMO bypass the heater core now and flush the coolant out of it.
I got the nice surprise of my brand new fresh carpet and padding getting soaked and stained with coolant.

 

[SirRobyn0]

IMO bypass the heater core now and flush the coolant out of it.
I got the nice surprise of my brand new fresh carpet and padding getting soaked and stained with coolant.

Ya, I should. Or just replace it. My wife was sitting in the passenger seat and I thought about her reaction if it had started pouring coolant on the floor..... The nasty thing about coolant is it's hard to get out of carpet and padding.

 

[Grit dog]

Ya, I should. Or just replace it. My wife was sitting in the passenger seat and I thought about her reaction if it had started pouring coolant on the floor..... The nasty thing about coolant is it's hard to get out of carpet and padding.

I know. I flushed and washed it all out. And dried it up with a fan.
Wish Jeffries truck had fired a warning shot. But it didn’t.
Just rotated the tires w/him and put on ORD sway bar link disconnects that his buddy’s dad gave him. That was very nice of that guy!
Now he has to take it to go get a truckload of beauty bark and start shoveling! Lol.

 

[SirRobyn0]

I know. I flushed and washed it all out. And dried it up with a fan.
Wish Jeffries truck had fired a warning shot. But it didn’t.
Just rotated the tires w/him and put on ORD sway bar link disconnects that his buddy’s dad gave him. That was very nice of that guy!
Now he has to take it to go get a truckload of beauty bark and start shoveling! Lol.

Oh ya you said "Just rotated the tires w/him" That reminds me, so I did the front brake job but ran out of time and did not rotate the tires or check the rear brakes and do a clean and adjust. A couple days later I rotated the tires and pulled the drums. No need to clean and adjust them they have about 1 - 2/32nds to the rivets.... Now I need to pull the fronts and rebalance them, I seem to have picked up a 70+ vibration. At least with new lugs and nuts up front they come on and off easy now.

 

[Grit dog]

Oh ya you said "Just rotated the tires w/him" That reminds me, so I did the front brake job but ran out of time and did not rotate the tires or check the rear brakes and do a clean and adjust. A couple days later I rotated the tires and pulled the drums. No need to clean and adjust them they have about 1 - 2/32nds to the rivets.... Now I need to pull the fronts and rebalance them, I seem to have picked up a 70+ vibration. At least with new lugs and nuts up front they come on and off easy now.

Always something eh?
I adjusted the brakes up too. Mostly I just am happy and giggle when drums pop right off with just a couple love taps. (Growing up in the rust belt makes me appreciate living here from a vehicular aspect more than anyone who hasn’t experienced life in the salt belt can possibly imagine.)
I am slightly concerned or perplexed about the front tire wear though. Partly because they cost as much as a house payment, lol. And partly because I wouldn’t have expected the fronts to start feathering the treads already.
Truck has been driven fairly regularly since the new tires last winter. But only local driving and maybe 2-3000 miles?
Now the old (35” mud tires same size and type of tread as the new ones) tires were 60-70% wore out and worn perfectly. No tread feathering or cupping (real world long term evidence of no alignment issues) These big bad ass new tires were beginning to feather a little bit.
Do I chalk it up to only local driving, tons of tight turns (you know how these axles cause the wheels to lean a lot at full steering lock due to the caster in the knuckles) and no long straight highway runs to “temper” the new rubber and correct any minor wear from turning? Or is the tread super soft, or is it just the particular tread pattern? First world problems….

Sorry for the off topic to those grumbling at me.

 

[SirRobyn0]

Always something eh?
I adjusted the brakes up too. Mostly I just am happy and giggle when drums pop right off with just a couple love taps. (Growing up in the rust belt makes me appreciate living here from a vehicular aspect more than anyone who hasn’t experienced life in the salt belt can possibly imagine.)
I am slightly concerned or perplexed about the front tire wear though. Partly because they cost as much as a house payment, lol. And partly because I wouldn’t have expected the fronts to start feathering the treads already.
Truck has been driven fairly regularly since the new tires last winter. But only local driving and maybe 2-3000 miles?
Now the old (35” mud tires same size and type of tread as the new ones) tires were 60-70% wore out and worn perfectly. No tread feathering or cupping (real world long term evidence of no alignment issues) These big bad ass new tires were beginning to feather a little bit.
Do I chalk it up to only local driving, tons of tight turns (you know how these axles cause the wheels to lean a lot at full steering lock due to the caster in the knuckles) and no long straight highway runs to “temper” the new rubber and correct any minor wear from turning? Or is the tread super soft, or is it just the particular tread pattern? First world problems….

Sorry for the off topic to those grumbling at me.

My opinion on the tires is if the shocks are good and it's bouncing down the road I'd rotate it and forget it. Hard to say on the rubber compound do you know the brand of the old tires and new ones...

 

[rich weyand]

I run 17 BTDC at idle with the vacuum disconnected. That should be something like 52 BTDC at cruise, with mechanical all in and vacuum all in.

I wrote up a detailed description of timing, including all the whys and wherefores, a while back.
https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/ignition-timing-for-first-generation-gm-v-8-engines.14508/