HOLY BRAKES! Enough to get me by?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

tpripps

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2021
Posts
64
Reaction score
52
Location
Scandia, MN
First Name
Tyler
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C30
Engine Size
454
So a while back I had posted about a rear drum that was stuck and some of the methods I used to unstuck it. One of the methods I tried was to drill two holes (one on each side) of the brake drum, about 3/16" dia, and used a punch to try to drive the pads free from the outside. Being that there is now a hole in the wear surface, do you all think I can reuse this drum, even on a temporary basis? I don't expect to do any highway driving, towing or hauling until it's replaced with new, but I also don't want to stick a ton of money into drums (about $150 per side, before shipping) until I give the ol' truck a road test. I just don't want to destroy new pads by having a weird spot in the drum. Maybe I just block off that corner and do 3 wheel braking for a little while...
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
6,944
Reaction score
12,173
Location
Auburn, Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986, 1977
Truck Model
K20, C10
Engine Size
454, 350
It'll be fine, just make sure there's no burrs or lip on the inside surface that would eat up the brake lining. Even bevel the inside edge of the hole a little with a larger bit if there's any concern. Theoretically you will loose about 0.215% (estimated, lol) braking performance, but on the upside, you may have just invented the worlds first "high performance" drilled drums!
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
30,407
Reaction score
28,201
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
It'll be fine, just make sure there's no burrs or lip on the inside surface that would eat up the brake lining. Even bevel the inside edge of the hole a little with a larger bit if there's any concern. Theoretically you will loose about 0.215% (estimated, lol) braking performance, but on the upside, you may have just invented the worlds first "high performance" drilled drums!

I actually read about someone trying that once. I think it was a Dart or something, with 4 wheel drums. They drilled a bunch of holes, like a drilled rotor. Unfortunately I can't remember exactly what the outcome was, but I'm wanting to say that no difference was felt.

So did that trick work to get the drum unstuck? If so, that's a good idea.
 

WP29P4A

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2021
Posts
888
Reaction score
1,513
Location
Nevada
First Name
Mike
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
Sierra Classic V1500
Engine Size
350 TBI
Can't you just access the adjuster through the slit in the backing plate and back the pads off enough to remove the drums?
 

Bextreme04

Full Access Member
Joined
May 13, 2019
Posts
4,439
Reaction score
5,572
Location
Oregon
First Name
Eric
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K25
Engine Size
350-4bbl
Can't you just access the adjuster through the slit in the backing plate and back the pads off enough to remove the drums?
Not if the pads are rusted to the drum from it sitting for decades
 

WP29P4A

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2021
Posts
888
Reaction score
1,513
Location
Nevada
First Name
Mike
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
Sierra Classic V1500
Engine Size
350 TBI
@Bextreme04 My overactive imagination filled in the missing parts of the story with assumptions, I didn't think about the truck hibernating until arthritis set in. Good point, rust is like politics, it gums everything up and leaves behind an ugly mess.

I would think the adjusters would rust together a little sooner than the pads, making them useless by the time the pads are becoming one with the drums. Drilling holes is a clever idea. I think my ideas would have been less kind and included a sledge hammer, cutting disk, or saws all.
 

Bextreme04

Full Access Member
Joined
May 13, 2019
Posts
4,439
Reaction score
5,572
Location
Oregon
First Name
Eric
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K25
Engine Size
350-4bbl
@Bextreme04 My overactive imagination filled in the missing parts of the story with assumptions, I didn't think about the truck hibernating until arthritis set in. Good point, rust is like politics, it gums everything up and leaves behind an ugly mess.

I would think the adjusters would rust together a little sooner than the pads, making them useless by the time the pads are becoming one with the drums. Drilling holes is a clever idea. I think my ideas would have been less kind and included a sledge hammer, cutting disk, or saws all.
Yeah, my first though is always to bust out the BFH too.
 

tpripps

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2021
Posts
64
Reaction score
52
Location
Scandia, MN
First Name
Tyler
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C30
Engine Size
454
Can't you just access the adjuster through the slit in the backing plate and back the pads off enough to remove the drums?
Everything on the inside of the drum was one rusted mass from sitting for 28 years. I tried finding the adjuster but I couldn't tell what was adjuster and what was other piles of rust.
 

tpripps

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2021
Posts
64
Reaction score
52
Location
Scandia, MN
First Name
Tyler
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C30
Engine Size
454
Yeah, my first though is always to bust out the BFH too.
This was all after the BFH proved fruitless. I was surprised how much insult a cast iron drum could take.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
44,081
Posts
949,016
Members
36,159
Latest member
KrazyKustoms
Top