Headlights & Side Markers are dark

[1985K5Todd]

Hi there,
This is my first post. I am restoring a 1985 K5 Blazer for my father who owned a 77 at one time until my mother totaled it. Anyway, as I go through the vehicle I am running into an issue with the headlights.

I bought a new headlight switch (tilt column) for the dash and installed it today. I have turn signals, tail lights, dash lights and brake lights.

I have neither low or high beams.

I have power into the switch (big read wire) and when I put a test light on the light green wire out of the switch the test light goes on an off as I operate the switch.

I have checked all fuseable links I have found. The starter, and near the firewall...although this seems to be a needless test because I have power into the switch.

I have no power on the light green wire on the engine side of the firewall.

Any ideas? Could the dimmer switch on the column be bad?

Thanks!

Todd

 

[Jrgunn5150]

The dimmer switch is next in line after the headlight switch, so it is likely bad.

Since you have the test equipment, I would check for power into and out of it.

 

[chengny]

I bought a new headlight switch (tilt column) for the dash and installed it today. I have turn signals, tail lights, dash lights and brake lights.

I have neither low or high beams.

I have power into the switch (big read wire) and when I put a test light on the light green wire out of the switch the test light goes on an off as I operate the switch.


I have no power on the light green wire on the engine side of the firewall.

Any ideas? Could the dimmer switch on the column be bad?

Thanks!

Todd

I have power into the switch (big read wire) and when I put a test light on the light green wire out of the switch the test light goes on an off as I operate the switch.

There isn't any LT GRN lead connected to the H/L switch. The closest colors are DK GRN and YEL. I'm guessing you mean the YEL:

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I am really bad on colors myself so I can sympathize.

Anyway, that YEL feeds power - from the RED through the H/L switch - to the dimmer switch. Then the dimmer switches the output power between the low beam (TAN) and high beam (LT GRN) circuits. If you have power off/on on the YEL - into the dimmer switch - but no power showing at the firewall on either the TAN or LT GRN circuits...then yes, like J.R suggests, it would appear that the dimmer switch is bad.

You must be registered for see images attach

I have checked all fuseable links I have found. The starter, and near the firewall...although this seems to be a needless test because I have power into the switch.

Exactly, power on the RED at the H/L switch confirms that the fusible links are intact.

 

[1985K5Todd]

Thank guys. I REALLY appreciate the feedback. As soon as I can break away from a few other chores I am going to get back to the Blazer. This is a surprise for my Dad so I am super excited to get it all "right" and then give it to him. He has been suffering through pancreatic cancer and things are beginning to turn in his favor after surgery...

Anyway, thanks again for the time you spent helping me out.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

On a side note welcome and hats off to you for doing this for your dad.

 

[1985K5Todd]

Thanks again. The headlight issue was indeed the dimmer switch.

 

[Cuba]

Awesome!! Thank you so much for updating! Welcome to the site!!

 

[74 Shortbed]

Welcome to the site, glad to hear it's fixed.