Header swap begins.

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hey mister

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Marty
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Here's the isolaters...
 

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hey mister

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2024
Posts
217
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564
Location
North Coast
First Name
Marty
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
Ok, final update and appoligies for the long wind.

Exhaust is complete.
It has been through a couple of heat cycles. All the bolts have been checked for tightness.
It sounds awesome and it runs better; for instance....go to drive-in for lunch. Then go to a store or 2 or 3. Get in, hit the starter...grind...grind....grind,
Finally it catches. It never has liked the stop-n-go or short-hops.
Now, completely different and better. Stop-n-go?...all day long. We went yard sale'n today. Get in, bump the starter and it lites right up to idle. Sweekems! And it wants to get out and run, but I've been holding back. Have not flushed the toilet yet.
In one of my other threads about the rad fans not coming on when they should. Basically, an over heating problem due to some issue with the fan controller. Well the problem has been resolved. I had cslled Summit about the issue with the controller and they "warrenty'd" the first unit out. Thank you, Summit. Second unit was not any better. So late yesterday afternoon, I had enuf. I went to summit and got a controller with a better design and a "better" price tag. Touted as "Painless". By 10:00pm I had the faulty unit out and the "Painless" unit in....mostly. Batteries in headlamp gave up....and so did I. This morning found it in the same state I left it....night shift never showed up. Buggers!
So, wired in the last couple wires and loomed the harness up to tidy up the bay. Gads, I hate to see a wiring hairball in vehicles.
Ate lunch and went to Summit to return the p.s. bracket I never opened and the p.o.s. twin fan controller. Then came home and got the Mrs. and we spent the next hour or so yard sale'n. And the new painless controller kept everything under control, including my temper.
So, as I was futzing with the first controller, it had a bedded temp control trimpot. There were times I could just press my finger on it and the fans, which should of been screaming, would come to life. Then there were other times, regardless of how I adjusted that pot with a screwdriver, it would not come on, and both fans should be on.
Honestly, I think there are issues with that $40 controller. But it's gone now.
 

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hey mister

Full Access Member
Joined
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Posts
217
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564
Location
North Coast
First Name
Marty
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
I knew I forgot to mention something...
With the header wrap the bay is so much cooler. Just for that alone, I would do the wrap, inspite of the fiberglass itching.

And here's another "slick trick": use toenail clippers to trim plastic zip ties. They don't leave razor sharp stumps that filet hands & arms.

Now I think that's it.
 

legopnuematic

Licensed Junk Dealer
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Location
MO
First Name
Spencer
Truck Year
1971, 1̶9̶7̶4, 1976, 1979,1̶9̶8̶5, 2002
Truck Model
Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
Engine Size
225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
For zipties, a ziptie gun is pretty deluxe, not only does it tension the tie, it will cut it once it hits the preset tension. Cut them flush and no sharp edges.
You must be registered for see images attach

Or a set of flush cut pliers, will cut right up to the shoulder and leave a, well flush cut.
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Catbox

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Location
Just Outside of Portland Oregon
First Name
Peter
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
C20 Silverado Camper Special
Engine Size
461
I use the flush cut pliers from Harbor Freight for everything.
They even are great for cutting hang nails off.
That and they are like $4 a set.
We have several of them.
 

hey mister

Full Access Member
Joined
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Posts
217
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Location
North Coast
First Name
Marty
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
Took an hour drive to an outing and then an hour drive back.
Had a couple buddies with me.
First off they commented on the ability of 3 grown men to set in a truck and not crowd each other.
The other comment was how the motor/exhaust sound brought back some great memories.
On the x-way entrance ramp, I did get the chance to "flush the toilet". Woah, was uttered by all.
What a great flawless drive!
The time spent on it, is well worth it.
Smiles was had by all.
 

Oldbear42

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
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Location
Linden, Alberta, Canada
First Name
Shaine
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
C20 LWB Scottsdale
Engine Size
350
Not even funny....
I couldn't believe some of the fasteners on this truck is metric and some SAE.
Just not funny...lol
I have both metric and SAE in my toolbox. Plus, a set of Whitworth wrenches because I learnt the hard way...

Luckily, most of my truck is still SAE.
 

Oldbear42

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2024
Posts
196
Reaction score
506
Location
Linden, Alberta, Canada
First Name
Shaine
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
C20 LWB Scottsdale
Engine Size
350
For zipties, a ziptie gun is pretty deluxe, not only does it tension the tie, it will cut it once it hits the preset tension. Cut them flush and no sharp edges.
You must be registered for see images attach

Or a set of flush cut pliers, will cut right up to the shoulder and leave a, well flush cut.
You must be registered for see images attach
I often use end cut pliers
 

YakkoWarner

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192
Location
Central Texas
First Name
Wolf
Truck Year
1989
Truck Model
R2500 Suburban
Engine Size
454
I have both metric and SAE in my toolbox. Plus, a set of Whitworth wrenches because I learnt the hard way...

Luckily, most of my truck is still SAE.

Those Whitworth wrenches could be well worth their weight in precious metal in the right setting. I have several peices of vintage British machinery which is surprisingly easy to work on with the right sockets and wrenches, would be an absolute nighmare to fight with trying to use adjustables or "almost-fits" SEA or metric sockets.....
 

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