Header Mounts

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Doppleganger

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
12,706
Reaction score
58,941
Location
OH-MI: Just like it sounds
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
So while I wait for other items (all sitting at the local Fedex hub for 2 weeks), I'm sizing up my headers. Wont be an easier time to install them plus it closes up more holes on the motor.

There are 2 holes above the header bolts, in between 1-2, and 3-4. My 'guess' is these are for the headers, maybe to stop warping? You can see my headers have loops in the general area but not a clear shot to use. I was going to grind out the header loop to clear the hole access, but am also looking at cutting off the loop entirely and welding on an ear that matches the holes exactly. Wont ever be easier to do this than now. Also wanted to fab up (or find) some plug wire brackets to bolt there as well to keep my wires away from the headers.

To keep those loops would have to almost grind through them between 1:00-2:00.

What think ye?

Thanks fellas.

You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Green79Scottsdale

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2010
Posts
2,834
Reaction score
7,487
Location
G.R. - MI
First Name
Bob
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
400
The hoops on the headers have nothing to do with those holes. You are thinking about it too much. Trying to use those tapped holes to help prevent warping is a losing exercise. You can cut the hoops off and go on your way. Hell, you could separate the three distinct sections and be just as good, maybe better.
 

Bextreme04

Full Access Member
Joined
May 13, 2019
Posts
4,439
Reaction score
5,581
Location
Oregon
First Name
Eric
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K25
Engine Size
350-4bbl
No idea what those holes are for. If you want to make sure you don't have any header leaks, I suggest putting a layer of copper RTV on the header side of the exhaust gasket and also the collectors. I had some leaks on mine and pulled everything back apart and added a coat on both the exhaust gaskets and the header buddies. Zero leaks after adding the copper RTV.
https://www.permatex.com/products/g...ature-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker/?locale=en_us
 

shiftpro

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Posts
4,855
Reaction score
6,092
Location
BC Canada
First Name
shiftpro
Truck Year
73-87
Truck Model
1500, 2500, 3500
Engine Size
350, 383, 454, 496!
The hoops on the headers have nothing to do with those holes. You are thinking about it too much. Trying to use those tapped holes to help prevent warping is a losing exercise. You can cut the hoops off and go on your way. Hell, you could separate the three distinct sections and be just as good, maybe better.
What the heck are they for?
 

73c20jim

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2018
Posts
2,282
Reaction score
2,926
Location
Tombstone, AZ
First Name
Jim
Truck Year
1973, 1973
Truck Model
C20 2WD Custom Deluxe. C10 2WD Base Model
Engine Size
350 CID 195/260 HP Goodwrench crate, 400 CID 2bbl
Wire loom attachment points???
 

Doppleganger

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
12,706
Reaction score
58,941
Location
OH-MI: Just like it sounds
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
I personally could care less about the loops. I only asked because they happened to almost line up with a couple of intentionally made tapped holes. I have seen turbo manifolds with similar auxiliary holes for a support to reduce warpage.

But fwiw.....I did find a similar hole location on a different aftermarket head that is used for plug wire brackets. Tech at Edelbrock (I had a different question and tossed this one in) said he believed thats what they were for. So more than likely I'll remove the loops and use the holes for that.

Meh.
 

shiftpro

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Posts
4,855
Reaction score
6,092
Location
BC Canada
First Name
shiftpro
Truck Year
73-87
Truck Model
1500, 2500, 3500
Engine Size
350, 383, 454, 496!
Them toobs need any clearance? Now is the time brother..
(same speech I give to all the header newbees)

The header bolt behind #5 looks pretty close.
 

Doppleganger

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
12,706
Reaction score
58,941
Location
OH-MI: Just like it sounds
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
Them toobs need any clearance? Now is the time brother..
(same speech I give to all the header newbees)

The header bolt behind #5 looks pretty close.
Close to what? Only thing I am dreading space wise is when the steering column goes in. Will be the first thing next Spring when the cab is back on.
 

shiftpro

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Posts
4,855
Reaction score
6,092
Location
BC Canada
First Name
shiftpro
Truck Year
73-87
Truck Model
1500, 2500, 3500
Engine Size
350, 383, 454, 496!
Close to what? Only thing I am dreading space wise is when the steering column goes in. Will be the first thing next Spring when the cab is back on.

Close to the header... sometimes tough to get a wrench in there. Not all wrenches are thin like a Snap-On.
 

shiftpro

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Posts
4,855
Reaction score
6,092
Location
BC Canada
First Name
shiftpro
Truck Year
73-87
Truck Model
1500, 2500, 3500
Engine Size
350, 383, 454, 496!
You can 'port' your headers too, if you have too much time on your hands. Using the gasket, verify that the header does not step over the exhaust port. If the header flange opening is larger than the exhaust ports, no worries.
 

Doppleganger

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
12,706
Reaction score
58,941
Location
OH-MI: Just like it sounds
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
Close to the header... sometimes tough to get a wrench in there. Not all wrenches are thin like a Snap-On.
The bolt that holds the header on? These are (short) purtee bolts that came with the headers.....more than likely I'm going with studs. Could never keep them tight when using bolts. :hat:
 

73c20jim

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2018
Posts
2,282
Reaction score
2,926
Location
Tombstone, AZ
First Name
Jim
Truck Year
1973, 1973
Truck Model
C20 2WD Custom Deluxe. C10 2WD Base Model
Engine Size
350 CID 195/260 HP Goodwrench crate, 400 CID 2bbl
I use double gaskets, tighten the bolts, get the engine hot, cool it down and retighten the bolts.
 

Bextreme04

Full Access Member
Joined
May 13, 2019
Posts
4,439
Reaction score
5,581
Location
Oregon
First Name
Eric
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K25
Engine Size
350-4bbl
I got super cheapo, old, "Mr Gasket" headers on an old 350 that was given to me. Super thin mounting flange and old headers meant that it wasn't going to seal right at all with normal gaskets. I used some fel-pro gaskets and then put about 1/8" bead of the copper RTV all the way around. Bolt the header on and tighten just enough for the RTV to push out towards the edge, then let it cure for about an hour at 70-ish degrees. Then snugged it all the way down and ZERO leaks. I wouldn't waste my money on a copper exhaust gasket. If the header flange is thin or warped enough that a regular gasket doesn't seal, copper material wont help. Double gaskets is a decent idea if the warpage isn't bad and the gaskets are soft enough. Copper RTV is cheap and has worked 100% of the time for me.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,168
Posts
950,770
Members
36,283
Latest member
Cantrell299
Top