Has anyone converted their leafs springs to trailing arms?

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Joseph_siller

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i am putting a full pro touring kit on my 73. It converts the rear end to trailing arms. Was wondering if anyone on this forum has done it because the brackets on the axle you have to mount are a different story.
 

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I'm not sure I understand the question? Do you have a question about the kit, or are you thinking of using the leaf springs AS the trailing/control arms?
 

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I’m referring to the kit but was wondering if someone has done th same thing because if you’re converting you’re rear end to trailing arms meaning completely deleting the leaf springs you have to mount the trailing arm pads in the axle.
 

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I've done it, I used a 71/72 axle though so I wouldn't have to deal with that.

Who's kit do you have?
 

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So what information are you looking for exactly? The mounts have to be welded to the axle. You'll have to install the crossmember and arms to locate them on the axle. Made sure its centered between the frame rails before welding.
 

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No trailing arms...but I did replace the leaf springs with a paralle four link. HuGE difference over the crappy leafsprings. No more axle roll or sway.
 

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I assume you've seen this, but assumptions are usually wrong so here is their install write up in case you haven't.

http://www.classicperform.com/tech_articles/Trailing_Arms/Trailing_Arms.htm
Right I’ve already seen that article doesn’t really say to much about he center crossmember. Says the crossmemeber goes off the stock e brake holes which it really doesn’t. The center cross member can’t even reach the holes I rivited without hitting the cab. So I’m it even sure if the trailing arms will reach the axle correctly. I’m trying to save money and not buy a 3,000 Currie rear end. And was wondering how easy it is to just mount the brackets on the axle
 

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You dont have to buy a new $3k rear axle. I used a $150 stock axle from a 71 or 72 truck and you could do the same if you find one. It has to be from 71 or 72 to be the same width as a 73-87 axle and to be factory 5 lug. Earlier axles are narrower and 6 lug.

The steps to mounting the included pads to the axle are outlined in that article. I cant really say how easy that is as 1. I didnt have to do it and 2. I dont know you skill level or what tools you have. Cutting, grinding and welding are involved along with setting the pinion angle and correct location based on the angle of the arms and centering the axle under the truck.

What year is the truck you are putting the kit on? Is it a longbed or a shortbed? The ebrake cables changed in like 84 so if you have a newer truck then that part of it wont be correct. No matter what the year the crossmember should go in the same spot which is just in front of the rear cab mounts.

How are the rubber bushings of your rear cab mounts? If they are rotten and collapsed that could cause the crossmember to hit the floor.


Honestly I think you should probably put in a call the CPP tech support. It make take some time but you can speak to the guys that designed/worked on this kit. I did just that a few years ago when I was trying to decide which kit to buy. You will probably get a better/faster answers that way. I dont have their kit but mine is similar and the install was somewhat similar as well from what I've seen. I know I've done it before but their install article is pretty decent and lays most of it out. What kind of instructions if any do they send with it?
 

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You dont have to buy a new $3k rear axle. I used a $150 stock axle from a 71 or 72 truck and you could do the same if you find one. It has to be from 71 or 72 to be the same width as a 73-87 axle and to be factory 5 lug. Earlier axles are narrower and 6 lug.

The steps to mounting the included pads to the axle are outlined in that article. I cant really say how easy that is as 1. I didnt have to do it and 2. I dont know you skill level or what tools you have. Cutting, grinding and welding are involved along with setting the pinion angle and correct location based on the angle of the arms and centering the axle under the truck.

What year is the truck you are putting the kit on? Is it a longbed or a shortbed? The ebrake cables changed in like 84 so if you have a newer truck then that part of it wont be correct. No matter what the year the crossmember should go in the same spot which is just in front of the rear cab mounts.

How are the rubber bushings of your rear cab mounts? If they are rotten and collapsed that could cause the crossmember to hit the floor.


Honestly I think you should probably put in a call the CPP tech support. It make take some time but you can speak to the guys that designed/worked on this kit. I did just that a few years ago when I was trying to decide which kit to buy. You will probably get a better/faster answers that way. I dont have their kit but mine is similar and the install was somewhat similar as well from what I've seen. I know I've done it before but their install article is pretty decent and lays most of it out. What kind of instructions if any do they send with it?
See that’s what my original plan was to buy an old rear end with the brackets already on it. So I called a junk yard and the guy told me that it was a very dumb idea because 1. I’ll be lucky to even find a working rear end snd 2. I’m lowering my truck like 5 inches in the rear so the drive shaft could be vibrating because I’m lowering my truck so much that the axle is not set for that ride height. I have a 73 short bed. And that is a good point yes all my bushings are shot just like every other piece of rubber haha. That could be it for th center cross member. What year do you have and what kit did you buy? And i don’t know how many times I’ve called and walked in and asked so many questions and they all have no idea. They’re just people selling parts. I had to show one of the workers there that article you sent me. He had no idea. They’re all dumb haha
 

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So ignore that junkyard guy. Even if you find an axle an it needs some work its still cheaper than buying a crate one from currie. I didnt do anything to my axle but freshen up the brakes, pop in some new axle seals an change the gear oil out. I mean think about it, outside of abusing them how many people have trouble from an axle. Id say it will be more rare to find one that is busted than one in working order.

On the drive shaft you should be ok. I didnt have to do anything with mine. Worst case you put a shim in to add to the pinion angle. Probably won't need that though.

Mine is a 78 an my setup came from porterbuilt. I don't recommend it.

You are right about the store employees I'm sure. You gotta call the tech support line. They transferred me to the guys that knew a lot about that kit. It wound up being like 45 min call with wait time an all but the guy I finally got to knew his stuff.
 

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So ignore that junkyard guy. Even if you find an axle an it needs some work its still cheaper than buying a crate one from currie. I didnt do anything to my axle but freshen up the brakes, pop in some new axle seals an change the gear oil out. I mean think about it, outside of abusing them how many people have trouble from an axle. Id say it will be more rare to find one that is busted than one in working order.

On the drive shaft you should be ok. I didnt have to do anything with mine. Worst case you put a shim in to add to the pinion angle. Probably won't need that though.

Mine is a 78 an my setup came from porterbuilt. I don't recommend it.

You are right about the store employees I'm sure. You gotta call the tech support line. They transferred me to the guys that knew a lot about that kit. It wound up being like 45 min call with wait time an all but the guy I finally got to knew his stuff.
And with this kit did it relocate the shocks?
 

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