Harmonic balancer removal issues

[mtnmankev]

For those not familiar with the terminology, the harmonic balancer is an interference fit.
It's actually a hair smaller inner diameter than the crank snout outer diameter so that guarantees a TIGHT fit, and the woodruff key in the crank locks it in position from having any chance of spinning.
Sure, they go on hard, but they are supposed to be that way.
I have seen many idiots hammer a balancer back on and they always wonder why they have problems later.

 

[CoggedBelt75]

I made this myself many years ago for a LOT less than the set sold in tool trucks or stores.
And it's so simple, it actually works.
I got a piece of grade 8 all thread, cut at 6 and a half inches long.
Double nut tightened against each other on one end to stay put.
Another nut free to thread on and off, and a couple flat washers.
I thread it all the way into the crank (after oiling the threads of course) and use two wrenches, one to hold the nut at the end and the other to spin the nut pressing the balancer on.
I have had a few resist going on, but strong arm the wrenches and it WILL go on.

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I agree with this as I have one myself. Makes it so easy a caveman can do it. And it’s cheap to make too.

 

[QBuff02]

After a few turns of the jack nut, the jack screw (along bolt that is threaded into the crank snout) began to turn with the jack nut. Fearing that the crank snout was stripping, I stopped for the day. The threads are still okay at this point and the balancer is on maybe 1/3".

What, in addition to heating the balancer, what can I do to make this process easier? I really don't want to mess up the threads in the crank snout!

Even though you've got the screw all the way in (in theory) you still have to hold the end of that bolt to keep it from spinning. They can be a pain to install, also I usually scuff up or smooth the snout of the crank on the leading edge with scotchbrite or a fine sandpaper. I do the same to the leading inside edge of the balancer as well, any little ridge, lip, burr, nick, etc. can marr the surface when going on so you want to make sure the surfaces are free of anything like that before you start going together. Even though they are smooth surfaces and an interference fit think of it like a regular bolt- if the threads (i.e. the crank snout and balancer) aren't clean when you start it, you'll fight it to install it.

 

[84K30]

I believe I got the balancer installed. I was holding the end of the bolt instead of the body of the jack screw which was causing the whole assembly to rotate when I was tightening the nut.

One thing I do have a question about is the fact that in all of the videos I’ve watched of this process it appears as though the nut gets easier to turn right before it balancer is fully seated. My nut was so difficult to turn towards the end that I could no longer overcome my own strength with my opposing hand. Maybe this is because my crescent wrench is 15” whereas the 9/16” box wrench I was holding the assembly with is a few inches shorter?

I just want to be sure it is on the whole way before I start reassembling my truck.

Thanks again for all of the replies!

 

[QBuff02]

The internal lip of the balancer where the washer on the bolt will ride should be just above to roughly "flush" with the end of the snout on the crankshaft. I don't know if there's an exact spec, but let's say somewhere between .150 thousandths to zero above the snout. Give or take.

 

[84K30]

Balancer is on, truck is back together and idle timing is finally set to the factory spec of 4 degrees BTDC. Bextreme04, you could not have been more correct about the poor quality of OEM tools. Not only did I snap a puller bolt while removing the balancer, I snapped the main install bolt while installing the new balancer. With hand tools! Thanks to everyone for your help. Plan is to set the total timing, high idle speed and carb mixture screws (via vacuum) next.

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New balancer installed on crank snout

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Old balancer had clearly started to separate.

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[mtnmankev]

4 degrees before is a good starting point, (I remember those days) but depending on engine condition, the atltitude you live at, and a few other variables, you may find you will want to advance it some more, but not enough to cause pinging or hard starting.
Just for giggles, try setting the timing by vacuum gauge and see how it compares to your timing light indication.
I used to advance the timing just until it is at the highest needle reading, then back it off 1 inch Hg.
Now, I time engines by ear ...I advance the timing until the engine sounds happy, and if needed back it off just a hair to eliminate overadvanced timing.
Then again, I am at 5300 ft elevation and that's a big variable.

 

[wixthedog]

Glad you got it sorted out. Plenty of dampner manufacturers are cool with heating them up prior to installation and I always do, it just makes things easier. 99% of the time prep the areas, heat up the dampner, and then tap it on with a BFH using an aluminum buffer. Easier if the engine is out or the front clip is off but its certainly not dangerous or bad practice to do so.

 

[75gmck25]

With stock low compression heads I used 12 degrees BTDC. With higher compression aluminum heads I’m using about 15-16 degrees BTDC and have no pinging with 87 octane. My mechanical advance adds about 18 degrees. YMMV.

Bruce

 

[84K30]

Update:

Fine tuned my timing today. Total timing is now 34 degrees BTDC (all in) at approximately 3600 rpm. Mechanical advance adds 18 degrees. Idle timing is now set at 16 degrees BTDC. No audible pinging, good oil pressure, ~210 degree running temp, hot starts just fine and runs like a scaled dog compared to 4 degrees BTDC.

Thanks again!
-Eric

 

[mtnmankev]

Update:

Fine tuned my timing today. Total timing is now 34 degrees BTDC (all in) at approximately 3600 rpm. Mechanical advance adds 18 degrees. Idle timing is now set at 16 degrees BTDC. No audible pinging, good oil pressure, ~210 degree running temp, hot starts just fine and runs like a scaled dog compared to 4 degrees BTDC.

Thanks again!
-Eric

Glad to hear how sweet it's running !!!
I would suggest however, you try to get the operating temperature down a bit to help prolong engine life.
Personally i will run a 160 degree thermostat in the summer, and at most a 180 in the winter.
But then again I get two seasons here in northern AZ, winter COLD and summer HOT.
And just out of curiosity, did you try the vacuum gauge method of setting the timing and compare it to the timing light ?

 

[84K30]

My truck reliably ran at 160 degrees before changing the thermostat to the factory temp (210 from what I could find) a while back. It seems to run better at 210 than it did before. I lived in the Phoenix are on and off for 10 year between 2006 and 2019 so I know all about fighting overheating issues. Northern AZ is much more tolerable than the valley. My folks have a place in Prescott.

I timed it with the light but will certainly give your vacuum gauge method a try if I find it necessary to tweak the timing again.

 

[mtnmankev]

As long as the temp doesn't run much over 210 you should be okay.
A lot of people don't know that every pound of pressure in the radiator in conjunction with a good 50/50 coolant/water mix raises the boiling point of the coolant by three degrees.

The vacuum gauge method is often a good backup plan if a timing light isn't available, or doesn't always play nicely (mine is finicky and sometimes won't flash).

I lived in Prescott for 26 years and then moved farther north 12 years ago.