Griffin Radiator

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Fastduramax

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Has anyone here used a Griffin CU-70123 or similar rad for a Big Block in their Square ? If so what did you use for upper brackets ?
 

SquareRoot

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Hmmmm
 

Frankenchevy

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I think that’s an exact fit model. Confirm the dimensions against yours. Should be able to use your existing brackets.

Side note, have you looked at the summit versions? They are a fraction of the price and seem favorably reviewed.
 

fast 99

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If you have o-heating issues Griffin rads will fix it. Have a 69 big block Mustang that had very marginal cooling. Really needed to be careful where I drove it when temps got around 85. If I got caught in traffic it was a problem. Purchased a direct fit Griffin replacement. Have driven it for 2 years since. Engine never gets above 180 even in traffic. Also have a few friends with high HP cars they have Griffins and like them. Their quality is superior. They are expensive but you won't be disappointed.

One thing to keep in mind with Griffin. The tubes are 1 1/2" wide. So, the core width will likely be 3". That shouldn't be a problem on a SB, just an FYI.
 

RanchWelder

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Not without electronics to control temps perfectly...

The Griffin is originally designed as a 2 year core for racing and is disposable...
Call them and ask yourself...
Every race team who uses them uses supplemental cooling while standing still... BIG FAN...

They look cool though...
Are you building a race car with expectations of a hit in the wall or three, over your two year racing circuit?
The Griffin can withstand a major crash and keep the team running...

If NOT, you might reconsider your purchase...
It is NOT for your daily driver. They do not transfer heat the way an OEM spec'd radiator performs.
The ebay and amazon knock off's are mostly owned, manufactured and copied by Griffin's sub manufacturers...
They make everything under the sun... When you buy a fake Griffin, you are still buying a Griffin... You just think you cheated them...;)

If you run a show car, I can see how the cool effect makes you feel important at the show, having one... The red badge and all...
However the guy with a stock radiator for the model year, will win the prize for originality and probably be driving home without serious cooling issues from the event. Of course you can throw $$$$ electronics at it and make it run efficiently on the street...
You will have earned your master's degree in fluid dynamics, along the way...

Your mileage may vary...

I Love Griffen Radiators! When they are needed... spec'd and expected to perform for the engineered purpose...
Disposable... by design... copied by idiots... sold to uneducated masses to ruin their trucks...

A former aquaintance and I installed a 400cu in GM small block into a BMW 655si, with extensive mods to exhaust and drive line to run...
The Griffin was the weak link... and had to be replaced... despite to cool effect...

Same with a 500HP small block, installed into a custom Jag... the system would behave unexpectedly under heavy use and cause coolant alarms... Especially in the deep south summer... stop lights became a fright fest... The gauges would run to infinity... in seconds.. due to lack of air flow... 98 degrees for 210 days a year average, will teach you something most builders only see few weeks of the year.

What really works under excessive heat load and what, by the laws of science; will NEVER work, (by the laws of thermodynamics
and fluid dynamics), will amaze you... (after you're broke from replacing the parts you thought would work). You will hate life... The sucking will suck and you might end up divorced.... Bet me...

The use of the German sensor controls and modified coolant fans via high level systems integration was required... it was very expensive to design, program and install. It was NOT bullet proof, just a giant band aid $$$$. Way more than a brass radiator...

Unless you have an engineer specifying your cooling system, you might just scale back what you think you need or hire an engineer, and get it right the first time.

Griffin will gladly design your cooling system. Bring your inheritance. Your project will be right behind Formula 1 teams, 24 Hours of Daytona, Dragsters and NASCAR, so be prepared to wait a few weeks...

You have been warned....

The stuff "on sale" is for them that hired them, not for you...

Try the DeWitt $800 brass core, if you have the urge to spend $$$$.
At least you'll be able to braze it back together in 5 years, if it leaks... the gauge of metal is what you are paying for....

The aluminum becomes a different animal after 2 years of heat exchange... The welds become brittle...
If I sell you something, expertly marketed, (so the bling factor overwhelms your every desire), which destroys your engine, AM I YOUR FRIEND?

-Welder
 
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Fastduramax

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Holy crap Welder that was a mouth full but thanks for the info.... After spending that kind of cabbage on a product marketed for a BIG Big Block, direct fit and dual electric fans and shroud it had better cool my f***ing motor ! As for it turning into a Bic lighter after 2 years that would be quite disapointing also but a live and learn lesson as it is not returnable to Summit at this point !
 

Bextreme04

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I just used a factory GMT-400 454 radiator for mine with dual electric fans from a GMT-800 K2500 pickup. Fits like a glove and you can get replacement parts at any parts store in the country if you need to.
 

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I'm having to replace my plastic tank radiator in my 85 C30 454 for towing. I don't want to do another plastic rad and I can't afford an OEM copper/brass $500 one. This leads me to aluminum, sorry RanchWelder. I thought Griffin was the way to go, american made is preferred by me, but so many reviews on Summit say that it leaked almost immediately. Then I discovered that Frostbite is a Holly product which I thought was good but several reviews say theirs arrived warped over an inch. LMC is offering little to no information about the manufacturing of theirs. Has anyone used the Liland from rockauto or know if Liland is any good? I'm leaning toward a Cold Case from summit but then there is the fit issue. I don't have the original rad so I don't know the right specs, and the rad I pulled doesn't match the exact fit of what's available. Does anyone have a experience with a Cold Case rad for a big block with trans cooler? I want direct fit if possible.
 

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