Got turns and brake lights, but nothing else.

[cramezl]

All my fuses look good. Was messing with the headlight switch and pulled the knob out using the button on the side, now it won't hold itself in. What's the deal?

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[GTME94]

It's been a long time since I've removed the old style headlight switch but you may have to push the button in while inserting the knob. Or try rotating it to align it while pushing it back in. I think its a triangular shaped rod so it has to be aligned correctly.

Somebody smarter will probably be along soon to give a better answer.

 

[cramezl]

I can get it back in, but when I pull it back out (like when I turn on the lights) it just pops right out.

I forgot to mention that earlier in the day my starter bolts had loosened, and when I was tightening them I shorted out a wire under there on my exhaust. I don't know if it's related, but thought I'd mention it. Like I said, all my fuses looked fine, but I didn't have a test light handy.

 

[Boone83K10]

Ive heard.people say that it breaks the retaining pin in the switch. Just get a new one they are pretty cheap.

 

[cramezl]

Thanks. I'll do a search for one tonight

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[cramezl]

Got a new switch in there and verified my fuses are good. Still no headlights and the horn doesn't work anymore. Don't know if the two are related

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[chengny]

I forgot to mention that earlier in the day my starter bolts had loosened, and when I was tightening them I shorted out a wire under there on my exhaust. I don't know if it's related,


It is - related. You most likely melted a fusible link.

To check whether it is open test for power at the junction block on the firewall:

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Doesn't matter whether the key is on or off.

A meter should show 12 volts when connected to the red wire and a good ground.

 

[cramezl]

Thanks! I'll give that a shot

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[chengny]

If no power at JB, probably the fusible link in the smaller of the two red wires that connect to the starter solenoid. I think they are about 4-5 inches up from the ring terminals. Here is a picture of them thrown across to the other side of the truck. You'll figure it out:

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Here they are on the schematic. The smaller wire feeds the JB:

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When you go to replace the fusible link, buy one of the same amperage rating as the one that melted. The amp rating is embossed into the rubber insulation. Here is the one at the outlet from the JB as an example:

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See the little 16 - that is the amp rating of the fusible link.

 

[cramezl]

I've got power at the JB. Can't make sense of the wiring diagram. Electrical problems are my kryptonite. What's the next move?

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[cramezl]

Here's an update with some pics. I went back to the source: the starter. I know what you're thinking...genius! How did he do it?

What I found was a melted, burned through wire from the solenoid. The yellow and pink one go to the same connector. The yellow one was melted and burned through. You can see black burn marks on the exhaust shield in one pic. Didn't have the connector to fix it tonight, bit It's a good start

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[cramezl]

Progress! I fixed that wire and now i have headlights!

But, I don't have dash lights and my floor light (under dash) stays on constantly. The dome light also stays on constantly, but is dim. Unless I turn the headlight knob all the way to the left. Then, it's bright as can be. Wth! Could it be the new switch I bought?

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[white lightnen]

I think dash lights are fed from same fuse as tail/running lights. I have cut the fusible link out befoire and use butt connectors with no issue after driving for 50k.

if you have floor dimmer for head lights always check or replace that too, they are cheap and often go out

 

[cramezl]

I think dash lights are fed from same fuse as tail/running lights. I have cut the fusible link out befoire and use butt connectors with no issue after driving for 50k.

if you have floor dimmer for head lights always check or replace that too, they are cheap and often go out

You are correct. That fuse was bad.

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[89Suburban]

Good job picking away at it and figuring it out Zach.