Good Ospho (phosphoric) and epoxy Test

[Art Vandelay]

Don’t know if anyone has seen this. Pretty good test and results, especially for those of us without the ability to blast every small part.

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[Ricko1966]

He said spi says not use acid under epoxy,I don't think that's right. I belive SPI only recommends ospho and only when directions for using it are followed completely,which is what I think that second test was. I'll look and see. Yep Ospho is the only phosphoric acid treatment,SPI recommends.

 

[Art Vandelay]

I'm looking at getting some Tamco Moncoat for axles and small parts but their Q&A says "Do not use any form of rust converters..." but if you neutralize like in video don't see why it wouldn't work.
https://tamcopaint.com/products/monocoat-1-k-direct-to-rust?variant=31399920566352#qamp-a_i1

 

[Ricko1966]

I'm looking at getting some Tamco Moncoat for axles and small parts but their Q&A says "Do not use any form of rust converters..." but if you neutralize like in video don't see why it wouldn't work.
https://tamcopaint.com/products/monocoat-1-k-direct-to-rust?variant=31399920566352#qamp-a_i1

Some of the paint over rust products use tannic acid as part of the process the tannic acid needs some iron oxide to work( anyway that's what I was told by one of the manufacturers a decade or so ago when I was researching it. I'd ask the manufacturer for more info,not us.

 

[legopnuematic]

I'm looking at getting some Tamco Moncoat for axles and small parts but their Q&A says "Do not use any form of rust converters..." but if you neutralize like in video don't see why it wouldn't work.
https://tamcopaint.com/products/monocoat-1-k-direct-to-rust?variant=31399920566352#qamp-a_i1

For Tamco products, the reason they advise against using converters is the likelihood of the product not being neutralized or removed completely before applying product on top of it.

Think of something like a door that has a hemmed edge, phosphoric acid can easily creep into that hemmed area, you prep the panel, it’s still in the hemmed area, spray epoxy, then it starts creeping and bleeding out causing adhesion issues.

And certain products, like Monocoat, 5311, some of their epoxies are DTM/DTR, so they already have the ability to seal the rust on their own.

I’ve used monocoat, I like it, but if you are going for more visible parts and want them to look really good, I’d recommend their HB truck chassis black paint or their underhood satin black products.

I have used their chassis black for the frame and parts of my 79, I have a gallon on the satin to use for the inner fenders and underhood stuff.

79 12 Bolt in chassis black:

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Their 5311 primer is really good stuff too. I primed my trailer fenders with it almost 2 years ago and the trailer sits outside in the elements and still look like the day I sprayed them.

If you reach out to Barry at SPI or the Barney’s at Tamco, they are both receptive to questions about their products.

 

[Art Vandelay]

@legopnuematic I was hoping you would respond. I have only done the tank brackets in Acid and there isn’t a lot of crevices so should be able to neutralize them before Monocoat. I’m going to use the 5311 for my frame. Did you do the chassis black over that?

 

[legopnuematic]

When I did my frame, I had it media blasted, the chassis black is DTM/DTR, I cleaned and sprayed it, no primer.

I believe it will hold up fine as is, if I were to do it again right now, or if/when I do my 76, it’ll likely get epoxy first, then top coated. Or 5311 would be just fine too. Really just for that extra layer of protection more than anything.

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My trailer fenders in 5311 sprayed as a sealer (4:1:2). August will be two years of sitting outside uncovered, in all the delightful weather Missouri has to offer. That photo was late last year.

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