gm dana 60 front axle king pin rebuild

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NOPHO84K30

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Does any one know the size of the allen wrench used to get the cone off the axle c's and any tips on replacing all hardware on knuckels
 

crazy4offroad

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7/8" on the kingpin, and unless they have obvious damage I wouldn't bother replacing them. The bottom bearings can be a real chore if the cap bolts break, like mine did, so start soaking them with PB Blaster right away.
 

NOPHO84K30

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Ok thanks ive had the top apart to do the springs and bushings and to put ord cross over on it never seen the bottom side hope i have no issues on em
 

crazy4offroad

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I think the main problem I had was the axle sat in a field for who knows how long before I bought it. The brake dust shields were pretty much rotten away, so the bottom bolts were in just as bad shape. I HAD to do the lower bearings on mine though, I was tracking down death wobble from hell so all new bearings, springs and bushings were required to just eliminate all possibilities. Turned out the longer ORD heavy duty shackles threw off the caster, which as you know is not adjustable like balljoint axles, so I had to add 5 degrees of shim under the springs to correct it.
 

NOPHO84K30

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I had death wobble to were it felt like the truck was jumping in the air it was so bad then did the spring and bushing only i sould have just done it all at the same time . It just started doing it again but not as bad and my steering sometimes feels wierd when i make a sharp turn its like the wheel wants to pull out of my hands and it wont steighten out by it self . then goes away .
 

crazy4offroad

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Is the truck lifted at all? What size tires? I had to put a couple large washers in the tops of the spring caps to make the springs just a little tighter for my size tires (38s). From what I read on Pirate no more than 3/16" can be added before the spring binds. If you have longer shackles on the front springs you might need angle shims under the springs to correct caster. 4 degrees is a good general starting point for most situations.
 

NOPHO84K30

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It has a four inch with 35s
 

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If they are radials you might be ok, they are lighter and easier to balance than bias ply tires. If it seems you still have death wobble be sure to do the bottom bearings first, and if it's still persistent try the washer trick. I had a hell of a time with mine.
 

NOPHO84K30

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They are km2s bfg
 

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Those are around 60# compared to my 38s at around 85# each.
 

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Well im going to getem rebalanced just in case i rotated them before all this started again now that i think about it might of kicked a weight set them off ill see this week.
 

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I have the perfect tip and fix for that. I WILL FOR 100% sure be using Equal when I get new tires. To hell with techs who balance tires, or heavy tires that are hard to balance, or losing weights on a trail. Spend the $15 a wheel and JUST DO IT.

We've used equal in our Medium Duty 22in wheels on the roll backs and WOW. Difference of Night and Day, in ride comfort, beating up the tires and the suspension. Worth every penny. And you don't have to rebalance every 7500-15,000 miles. Pay for it once, throw it in your wheel at mounting and be done. This stuff will flat blow your mind at how well it works.

https://www.expeditionexchange.com/equal/
 

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