Getting quotes for paint/body work

[pnwnvrdn]

I've painted several of my own cars, none have been Pebble Beach quality, but acceptable to me (which really is all that should matter).
I've used Acrylic enamel, and also Acrylic urethane from TCP Global out of California, sent to my door. Very affordable prices.
Prep is everything.
I will be painting my avatar in the future myself...like most things, if you've never done it you may be apprehensive, but once completed your confidence and pride will be what shines thru.

 

[idahovette]

Wow, I'm surprised they let paint ship in California, let alone going into Washington??!!!!

 

[hoagster]

Wow, I'm surprised they let paint ship in California, let alone going into Washington??!!!!

Tamco

 

[hoagster]

I'm sure there are others, Eastwood is one! National tool wharehouse is were I get most of my consumables and paint gun supplies

 

[Rick R]

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I recently had my 73 C10 SB painted. There was a little rust to repair, and general prep. A painter that knew my son offered to do it for a little over cost of materials. It came out to $4500 and I gave him an extra $500. He really did a great job. Cab was painted a month before the rest. It needs a repaint of the cab to match. I’m sure he’ll take care of it.

 

[whiskeydents]

What are you folks that are painting your own truckers using for primer and paint? I have watched a ton of self paint videos on YouTube and there seems to be a bunch of opinions on brands and types of primer which coincides to paint type and what not. I’d like to do a single stage paint and am still deciding on a two tone paint job. I may do white over the whole truck or the willoway green with a white top.

Thanks guys for all the replies.

Morgan

 

[CountKrunk]

DIY is the only option for me. Or like others have said. Id be upside down on the value big time.

Watch youtube, and decide if their result was good enough for you. Pole barn garage does a really great series on a k10 (i think) that involves a ton of sanding.

 

[Grit dog]

that’s a great idea, I may call the community college and see what they would be willing to do.

You won’t be the first, second or 10th person to “volunteer “ your vehicle to them.
Considering materials alone for a decent quality 2 stage job including the primer(s), filler, shop expendables (sand paper etc) will easily be 2 grand, and shop rates are $100+/hr even in the cheapest of areas, it’s no more “expensive” than it ever was, really.
It was over $1k for quality materials 30 years ago. And I got quotes of several thousand for a straight car with minor rust work and no need to strip it to bare metal.
Most recently doing the blue truck, I was entertaining having someone else just spray it. Fully prepped and delivered, it was 2grand just to spray, no materials. Which takes the least amount of time.

 

[Grit dog]

Brutal! Since my truck is parked and always will be parked outside, I’ve decided to not throw hard earned money away on expensive materials and skilled labor. I’m going the multi coat enamel primitive DIY route, in another 50 years it will be the highly sought after Pantene version. I already purchased the rustoleum and tractor paint and primer from HD, also some looks wet enamel hardener from Amazon, $300. I vowed I wouldn’t try it again after the Chevelle debacle BUT, I believe this will be different since I am two toning it and I will be painting panels one at a time. I believe my compressor will be okay if I take my time. I keep reminding myself I’m not building a show truck winner. I just about finished sanding the cab interior and hope to do entire cab paint before it gets too cold, if the weather cooperates maybe the doors and fenders too. My truck is a Frankenstein and planning to keep that identity.

Not being rude, but if the truck is going to sit outside, especially in the sun in a high UV state like CO, you are virtually wasting the effort if you’re not at least buying decent quality paint (and primer). You’ll have the faded “patina” look fairly quickly.

 

[Grit dog]

What are you folks that are painting your own truckers using for primer and paint? I have watched a ton of self paint videos on YouTube and there seems to be a bunch of opinions on brands and types of primer which coincides to paint type and what not. I’d like to do a single stage paint and am still deciding on a two tone paint job. I may do white over the whole truck or the willoway green with a white top.

Thanks guys for all the replies.

Morgan

Tamco is a great value. Quality vs price. It’s not “cheap” cost or quality but rather comparable quality for about half the price of big name higher end paint.

 

[mxer147]

Not being rude, but if the truck is going to sit outside, especially in the sun in a high UV state like CO, you are virtually wasting the effort if you’re not at least buying decent quality paint (and primer). You’ll have the faded “patina” look fairly quickly.

Agree, I plan on using a UV resistant single stage paint and primer. Even then, it will fade over time if it’s not covered up or washed and waxed often. Ideally, I would love to have an expensive paint job with the best materials and I would go that direction if I had more inside storage space to keep it protected.

 

[GTX63]

What are you folks that are painting your own truckers using for primer and paint? I have watched a ton of self paint videos on YouTube and there seems to be a bunch of opinions on brands and types of primer which coincides to paint type and what not. I’d like to do a single stage paint and am still deciding on a two tone paint job. I may do white over the whole truck or the willoway green with a white top.

Thanks guys for all the replies.

Morgan

I do Squarebody driver quality restorations. That means they are built and intended to be parked outside, driven regularly and maintained as needed. I try to get them back on the road, not in the showroom. So, unless the truck was an odd or rare original color, I simply buy single stage base in basic factory colors, and clear from an online seller with a decent price and reputation. Sometimes even ebay. I use 2k primer.
The finishes are much better than a hunting or mud truck, but they may end up with some dust in the finish.
That said, I paint my trucks on average for less than 1k. Of course that doesn't include my labor. But for the cost of a body shop painting a single truck, you could outfit your garage with all the equipment and tools to paint your own truck and have money left over.

 

[vr1967]

I know several who use paint from

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I should be heading down (it’s only about 2 hrs from where I live) in the next month or so for the primer and paint for my 84

 

[Catbox]

Yuh.
Quality paint with proper UV inhibitors is a must.
See my '54 Bel Air.
I overlooked some mechanical issues it had as the paint was done and the interior complete.
Here we are just after I purchased it with a driver quality paint job done in metallic maroon and pearl white.

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Roughly a year later of being an outside car...

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This was in 2020 when I picked up some different wheels for it.

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It turns out they used a cheap ass topcoat on the red.
Max started removing the topcoat to see if the paint under still had some shine on it.
It will in the long run just be easier to strip all the paint off panel by panel and primer it.
Then go from there on the recolor.

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[Grit dog]

Agree, I plan on using a UV resistant single stage paint and primer. Even then, it will fade over time if it’s not covered up or washed and waxed often. Ideally, I would love to have an expensive paint job with the best materials and I would go that direction if I had more inside storage space to keep it protected.

To each their own. I was trying to explain that no matter how well you do everything else, bodywork, prep, spraying etc, if using “cheap” paint with cheap and or diluted raw materials, the sun will eat it alive much quicker.
Don’t need show quality paints, but there is a lot in between Rustoleum with Amazon hardener and even jobber level paint lines.
At a minimum, I feel products from places like TCP global and Eastwood are warranted.
It’s sort of a how much is it worth to not redo a bunch of time you spent once, to have to repaint it again soon.
Single stage, single color you could probably get good materials for $1000 including primer, assuming you don’t need a ton of primer for block sanding.