Gear Vendors (Lessons Learned for driveshaft build)

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Wes P

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Greetings!

Some notes from my Gear Vendors experience:

A Gear Vendors OD installation in a C20 (or, presumably, any regular cab, long bed, 2wd, automatic, unmodified suspension) does NOT shorten the drive shaft enough to allow conversion to a one-piece drive shaft.

The GV kit comes with an involute spline slip yoke. The inherent run-out of this slip yoke is too much for a long/heavy drive shaft. A slip yoke with a longer spline engagement would be needed to sufficiently reduce run-out for a long one-piece drive shaft. Unfortunately, the GV tail shaft design does not support this.

The best solution I found to prevent vibration at highway speed is to eliminate the run-out at the GV tail shaft: Eliminate the supplied slip yoke. Use a bolt-on yoke for the GV tail shaft AND a 2-piece drive shaft OR a CV driveshaft.

On my C20, I went back to a factory-style 2-piece drive shaft. I moved the carrier bearing perch rearward about 6" and down 1/2". I shimmed the rear axle (Pinion) DOWN 1.5 degrees for a total of 3.5 degrees Pinion UP angle. The measurement from the Pinion yoke to the Carrier Bearing was then 39" and from the Carrier Bearing to the bolt-on yoke at the GV unit was 17.875". The Pinion and Front Shaft angles were then matched at 3.5 degrees UP/DOWN, respectively, for U-joint angle cancellation for the rear and center U-joints. The motor drive line is about 5 degrees DOWN. The front U-joint working angle is therefore 5-3.5 = 1.5 degrees. 0.5-1.5 degree U-joint working angles, in most cases, do not require cancellation.

Some photos below.
Cheers!
Wes

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PS.
- In the end, I used the original bolt-on yoke from the TH400 for the GV.
- I did not cut or weld to relocate the carrier bearing perch. I only drilled the rivets and added bolts. I also kept the TH400 tail shaft housing and the original drive shaft. If I want to use the GV on another project down the road, it can be removed from the truck without a fuss. I recommend this to everyone.
- Be very careful and use a back stop when drilling the aft rivets of the carrier bearing perch. The fuel lines are directly behind them!
- The coaxial RCA electrical connections on the GV controller are a poor design choice. Crush the RCA connectors and secure the connections or they will come loose.
- "Car" GV units use ATF fluid. Do not use ATF in the deep-sump "Truck" GV units. Use Lucas 75-90 synthetic gear oil. Gear oil in the Truck unit shifts hard. I thought ATF would shift softer. In fact, ATF in the "Truck" unit shifts with unnecessary violence.
- For vehicles with longer travel suspension but short drive shafts (i.e. 4x4): Use CV drive shafts. Your drive shaft may be short enough for a one-piece, but the GV unit is designed for only +/- 5/8" yoke slip.
 

idahovette

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How does everything work? Good ,worthwhile modification? What was your final capital outlay, if you care to share.
 

Wes P

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Its great after working out the electrical bug and driveshaft vibration.

If you are installing it yourself, budget $3500 to include a new driveshaft, fluids, and odd-ends.

If a shop is installing it, I have no idea.

A 4L80E and controller kit would cost about the same or a bit less. If I was building a vehicle from scratch, I would go for a 4L60E or 4L80E.
 

ak4life

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Greetings!

Some notes from my Gear Vendors experience:

A Gear Vendors OD installation in a C20 (or, presumably, any regular cab, long bed, 2wd, automatic, unmodified suspension) does NOT shorten the drive shaft enough to allow conversion to a one-piece drive shaft.

The GV kit comes with an involute spline slip yoke. The inherent run-out of this slip yoke is too much for a long/heavy drive shaft. A slip yoke with a longer spline engagement would be needed to sufficiently reduce run-out for a long one-piece drive shaft. Unfortunately, the GV tail shaft design does not support this.

The best solution I found to prevent vibration at highway speed is to eliminate the run-out at the GV tail shaft: Eliminate the supplied slip yoke. Use a bolt-on yoke for the GV tail shaft AND a 2-piece drive shaft OR a CV driveshaft.

On my C20, I went back to a factory-style 2-piece drive shaft. I moved the carrier bearing perch rearward about 6" and down 1/2". I shimmed the rear axle (Pinion) DOWN 1.5 degrees for a total of 3.5 degrees Pinion UP angle. The measurement from the Pinion yoke to the Carrier Bearing was then 39" and from the Carrier Bearing to the bolt-on yoke at the GV unit was 17.875". The Pinion and Front Shaft angles were then matched at 3.5 degrees UP/DOWN, respectively, for U-joint angle cancellation for the rear and center U-joints. The motor drive line is about 5 degrees DOWN. The front U-joint working angle is therefore 5-3.5 = 1.5 degrees. 0.5-1.5 degree U-joint working angles, in most cases, do not require cancellation.

Some photos below.
Cheers!
Wes

You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach



PS.
- In the end, I used the original bolt-on yoke from the TH400 for the GV.
- I did not cut or weld to relocate the carrier bearing perch. I only drilled the rivets and added bolts. I also kept the TH400 tail shaft housing and the original drive shaft. If I want to use the GV on another project down the road, it can be removed from the truck without a fuss. I recommend this to everyone.
- Be very careful and use a back stop when drilling the aft rivets of the carrier bearing perch. The fuel lines are directly behind them!
- The coaxial RCA electrical connections on the GV controller are a poor design choice. Crush the RCA connectors and secure the connections or they will come loose.
- "Car" GV units use ATF fluid. Do not use ATF in the deep-sump "Truck" GV units. Use Lucas 75-90 synthetic gear oil. Gear oil in the Truck unit shifts hard. I thought ATF would shift softer. In fact, ATF in the "Truck" unit shifts with unnecessary violence.
- For vehicles with longer travel suspension but short drive shafts (i.e. 4x4): Use CV drive shafts. Your drive shaft may be short enough for a one-piece, but the GV unit is designed for only +/- 5/8" yoke slip.
Excellent write up man, i wish this had been up when i had started. But good to know regardless cause im still confused on how its all done.....lol.
 

QBuff02

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I'm curious to clarify.. so you couldn't use or convert the GV to a fixed yoke is why you had to stay two piece? If you were using a bolt on yoke at both ends you could've built a one piece driveshaft but that wasn't the case with the GV stuff? I've done one piece shaft conversions and eliminated two piece shafts and seen it done many times with some "extreme" driveshaft lengths and hold up to a lot of power and rpm unless there's some absolute isn't going to work reason that i'm assuming is related to the compatibility with the aftermarket parts? Especially with all the degreeing and shimming you performed to get things in the right alignment to make it work. I will add that that is one of the nicest, cleanest, well built two piece driveshafts assemblies I've seen.
 

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