Fusible link replacement

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Ken B

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2019
Posts
1,191
Reaction score
1,455
Location
indiana
First Name
ken
Truck Year
81
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
250
ok gotta ask , why non insulated crimp?
 

Radiohead

That guy on the Columbia
Joined
Mar 17, 2022
Posts
2,486
Reaction score
8,110
Location
Low Earth Orbit where it's safer
First Name
Eric
Truck Year
MCMLXXIX
Truck Model
C-20 Silverado Camper Special
Engine Size
454 crazy cubes, or 7.4 luscious litres
Insulated crimps usually don't have any sort of heat shrink, just nylon or whatever tf it is. A plain splice will give you a clean crimp that you can slide heat shrink over to make it a sanitary install. Part performance, part looks when done right.

Some new crimps come with a heat shrink pre installed, which if installed carefully will be just as good, IMO.
 

Bextreme04

Full Access Member
Joined
May 13, 2019
Posts
4,439
Reaction score
5,581
Location
Oregon
First Name
Eric
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K25
Engine Size
350-4bbl
Insulated crimps usually don't have any sort of heat shrink, just nylon or whatever tf it is. A plain splice will give you a clean crimp that you can slide heat shrink over to make it a sanitary install. Part performance, part looks when done right.

Some new crimps come with a heat shrink pre installed, which if installed carefully will be just as good, IMO.
You have to have special crimping tools to not damage the ones with heat shrink pre-installed.
ok gotta ask , why non insulated crimp?
If you don't have the right crimping tool, the insulated crimps are garbage. If you are installing it in an engine bay or other areas exposed to water or the environment, you need to have it hermetically sealed to prevent corrosion anyways, and the regular "insulated" ones don't do that. The best thing to use for this in an easy to apply method is quality heat shrink tubing. You slide it over one side of the wire, crimp the wires together, then slide it back over the crimp and heat it up with a heat gun. Good quality heat shrink will have at least a 2:1 ratio and will create a weather seal as well as insulate the exposed area.

There are easy to use alternatives.. but they are more expensive and often require their own special crimpers to avoid damage. In aviation, it is common to use solder sleeves in areas that are exposed or heat shrink crimps.
Solder Sleeves:
https://racespeconline.com/products...fr3XYKyDZc-qWGj29KThq-1uRI1-kE_caAg0mEALw_wcB

Mil-Spec aviation grade butt splice:
https://racespeconline.com/products/raychem-mini-butt-splice

It should be noted that the proper crimper for those mil-spec butt splices costs $220. The only reason I use things like that is in critical things like EFI wiring harnesses and I'll set everything up and then borrow the crimping tool from one of my A&P coworkers for a day or two.
 

Ken B

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2019
Posts
1,191
Reaction score
1,455
Location
indiana
First Name
ken
Truck Year
81
Truck Model
c10
Engine Size
250
volumes of great information here as usual. thanks guys
 

Matt69olds

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2018
Posts
2,451
Reaction score
3,819
Location
Central Indiana
First Name
Matt
Truck Year
81
Truck Model
GMC 1/2 ton
Engine Size
455 Olds
I’m pretty sure the wire inside a fusible link is the same as regular wire, just a smaller wire size than the circuit it’s protecting. It’s the insulation that’s different, it’s fireproof/extremely high heat to prevent melting.

Definitely use the proper crimpers. Don’t use cheap butt connectors, and use heat shrink with the glue inside. Of all places, Harbor Freight sells a storage box with various sizes of heat shrink with the glue.

The factory used splice clips to join wires. You can make a splice clip by using a crimp style spade terminal, cutting off the spade part, and just using the crimp. You could use a couple as needed, crimp them solid, preferably use solder, and cover the connection with environmentally sealed heat shrink.
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Radiohead

That guy on the Columbia
Joined
Mar 17, 2022
Posts
2,486
Reaction score
8,110
Location
Low Earth Orbit where it's safer
First Name
Eric
Truck Year
MCMLXXIX
Truck Model
C-20 Silverado Camper Special
Engine Size
454 crazy cubes, or 7.4 luscious litres
You have to have special crimping tools to not damage the ones with heat shrink pre-installed.

If you don't have the right crimping tool, the insulated crimps are garbage. If you are installing it in an engine bay or other areas exposed to water or the environment, you need to have it hermetically sealed to prevent corrosion anyways, and the regular "insulated" ones don't do that. The best thing to use for this in an easy to apply method is quality heat shrink tubing. You slide it over one side of the wire, crimp the wires together, then slide it back over the crimp and heat it up with a heat gun. Good quality heat shrink will have at least a 2:1 ratio and will create a weather seal as well as insulate the exposed area.

There are easy to use alternatives.. but they are more expensive and often require their own special crimpers to avoid damage. In aviation, it is common to use solder sleeves in areas that are exposed or heat shrink crimps.
Solder Sleeves:
https://racespeconline.com/products...fr3XYKyDZc-qWGj29KThq-1uRI1-kE_caAg0mEALw_wcB

Mil-Spec aviation grade butt splice:
https://racespeconline.com/products/raychem-mini-butt-splice

It should be noted that the proper crimper for those mil-spec butt splices costs $220. The only reason I use things like that is in critical things like EFI wiring harnesses and I'll set everything up and then borrow the crimping tool from one of my A&P coworkers for a day or two.
All true, and thanks for going into the finer points deeper than I. My apologies for slacking on the obvious.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
44,167
Posts
950,749
Members
36,283
Latest member
Cantrell299
Top