Fuel gauge not accurate after filling up.

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MisterB

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I run mine on Sunoco Standard 110. lol
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Holy cow, dude. At 8-10 MPG, I suppose you're just letting it all bleed out with the added costs of that fuel, and no real gain for doing so lol

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Frankenchevy

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Only ethanol free I can get near me is race gas from a can. Hell, I was excited to pay $3.49/gallon for 87 today, lol
 

QBuff02

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Holy cow, dude. At 8-10 MPG, I suppose you're just letting it all bleed out with the added costs of that fuel, and no real gain for doing so lol

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Actually, it's closer to about 6-6.5mpg. Lol Know much about true engine dynamics? Running 100% 110 octane is indeed just a touch too much for my particular application but when I built my engine and blueprinted it the specs of the engine dictate that I run somewhere around 100-104 octane to be on the safe side of things. High octane fuel and non ethanol fuel in my parts isn't readily available in my neck of the woods but there happens to be a station that sells Sunoco Standard 110 at the pump so I cut it with about 3-5 gallons of 93 octane. I was going to get into a long drawn out post about engine specs and building it correctly but to keep it short- on the street a big block with cast iron heads that has a dynamic (not static) compression ratio right at 9:1 absolutely will NOT live on pump gas unless you detune it, pull a butt ton of timing out of it, drive it gingerly and keep it cool. It would be like pulling the pin on the grenade and throwing it down the intake hoping the handle on it doesn't let go every time I take it to 6,000rpm. So for my particular setup, high octane is a must and when we're talking what it cost to build, paying for the right fuel isn't only cheap insurance it's the only way to go my friend.. especially when it gets wound up every single time I drive it! Lol


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QBuff02

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And not to high jack the thread but if it interests you here is an article that might make it more understandable. There's a section partway down about "why it matters" and my engine guy is pretty gospel about these types of things. All these specs were checked, measured and documented when we built my engine. And that's why I run higher octane fuel.

https://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced Engine Tuning/Static vs Dynamic.html


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MisterB

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Actually, it's closer to about 6-6.5mpg. Lol Know much about true engine dynamics? Running 100% 110 octane is indeed just a touch too much for my particular application but when I built my engine and blueprinted it the specs of the engine dictate that I run somewhere around 100-104 octane to be on the safe side of things. High octane fuel and non ethanol fuel in my parts isn't readily available in my neck of the woods but there happens to be a station that sells Sunoco Standard 110 at the pump so I cut it with about 3-5 gallons of 93 octane. I was going to get into a long drawn out post about engine specs and building it correctly but to keep it short- on the street a big block with cast iron heads that has a dynamic (not static) compression ratio right at 9:1 absolutely will NOT live on pump gas unless you detune it, pull a butt ton of timing out of it, drive it gingerly and keep it cool. It would be like pulling the pin on the grenade and throwing it down the intake hoping the handle on it doesn't let go every time I take it to 6,000rpm. So for my particular setup, high octane is a must and when we're talking what it cost to build, paying for the right fuel isn't only cheap insurance it's the only way to go my friend.. especially when it gets wound up every single time I drive it! Lol


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Well, I get it if you can't get non ethanol fuel without going that route. Sounds like one beast of an engine

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CSFJ

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Wouldn't a bad ground cause it to either fail, ie not work like being on E or F all the time, or become very erratic?

Again, wouldn't intermittent electric cause a fluctuating needle, not one that's completely steady, but somehow off by several gallons?
I would think that would rule out electrical?


If you're getting the same response from multiple people who've had the same experience, perhaps you can just tell us what answer you feel is correct, so we can give that to you and go on with our day?
 

Dysco

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If you're getting the same response from multiple people who've had the same experience, perhaps you can just tell us what answer you feel is correct, so we can give that to you and go on with our day?
I wanted to get further information from people who posted and the group. I also wanted to troubleshoot rather than start changing things unnecessarily.
Sincethis time I called the owner of a well known gauge restoration shop for our trucks, who confirmed my suspicion that if it was a bad ground it would be either at E or F, or very sporadic needle movement, not slow a steady movement as fuel is used, but not accurate. He said this type of gauge and wiring system has been used since the 60s, and my situation is not a bad ground but most likely be the float or sending unit.
It pays to keep asking questions sometimes. Either way, I now have some some troubleshoot info from him, as well as some other people. Im glad to have it.
 

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Only ethanol free I can get near me is race gas from a can. Hell, I was excited to pay $3.49/gallon for 87 today, lol

Lots of nice farmland for sale around here. Ethanol free is $2.79
 

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