For your absorption and contemplation I bring you a rumination of the reverie of burnt cats on toast

[Swearbody]

Welding in the H pipe leaves another place for rust to form and eventually leak... and then need repair.
It just never ends!

Well if it ended id prolly be dead,LOL. I mean the whole truck is a giant place for rust to form. Im not gonna let that stop anything. It sho hasnt stopped you brotha<LOL.
and besides im in alabama so rust isnt an issue per say unless you have a 4x4 caked with our iron ore mud.

 

[legopnuematic]

Put one on my 76, used a kit from speedway, which eliminated me having to fuss around with coping the pipes, no issues with it and as mentioned, it helps smooth out the poppyness and such at idle. if you place it correctly it can also serve as a driveshaft loop, so it can be cheap insurance too.

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[Swearbody]

Put one on my 76, used a kit from speedway, which eliminated me having to fuss around with coping the pipes, no issues with it and as mentioned, it helps smooth out the poppyness and such at idle. if you place it correctly it can also serve as a driveshaft loop, so it can be cheap insurance too.

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I have the over and under crossmember headers/exhaust setup so ill have to look and see where it can go. Probably end up right before the mufflers maybe 8 inches or so. I got my turnouts today and am welding them onto the resonators tomorrow. Then maybe ill get some time this weekend to weld them in place.
After that I will have everything lined up where I want it so in my case coping may be a better option since otherwise ill have to cut/measure/test fit/adjust etc.
Im being kinda anal about where my pipes pop out of the underside right at the little indentation in front of the wheelwell...where the body brace is bolted up to the bottom of the bed. Yknow right under where gm put those stupid clear rock guards that always screw paint up and gather dirt...yeah there,LOL. I just dont want to have to go through all the alignments again. Ill probably just get in there with a hole saw and cut out 2 1/8, cope the ends of my pipe and tack it on. Then drop it and finish welding it up.

And paint...thats a great idea! Some high temp stuff would really keep it looking good. Ill do silver so im not copying you, LOL

 

[legopnuematic]

I have the over and under crossmember headers/exhaust setup so ill have to look and see where it can go. Probably end up right before the mufflers maybe 8 inches or so. I got my turnouts today and am welding them onto the resonators tomorrow. Then maybe ill get some time this weekend to weld them in place.
After that I will have everything lined up where I want it so in my case coping may be a better option since otherwise ill have to cut/measure/test fit/adjust etc.
Im being kinda anal about where my pipes pop out of the underside right at the little indentation in front of the wheelwell...where the body brace is bolted up to the bottom of the bed. Yknow right under where gm put those stupid clear rock guards that always screw paint up and gather dirt...yeah there,LOL. I just dont want to have to go through all the alignments again. Ill probably just get in there with a hole saw and cut out 2 1/8, cope the ends of my pipe and tack it on. Then drop it and finish welding it up.

And paint...thats a great idea! Some high temp stuff would really keep it looking good. Ill do silver so im not copying you, LOL

I'm the same way with exhaust exits, I do not care at all for pipes that exit straight out the back of a truck, because almost never both will be lined up and symmetric, or on some newer stuff I see exhausts come out at a compound 45 almost(aftermarket yee yee stuff), which looks silly imo too. Out the sides gives a little more leadway since can only really see one side at a time lol.

That's just Rustoleum high heat BBQ paint in almond, inexpensive and holds up well. In Missouri we have road salt so they get rusty, but I personally like the white/cream with rust coming through, like how painted bumpers rust.
The headers are also painted with the same stuff, being out of the line of fire of road debris, they look like when I put them on.

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[Swearbody]

I'm the same way with exhaust exits, I do not care at all for pipes that exit straight out the back of a truck, because almost never both will be lined up and symmetric, or on some newer stuff I see exhausts come out at a compound 45 almost(aftermarket yee yee stuff), which looks silly imo too. Out the sides gives a little more leadway since can only really see one side at a time lol.

That's just Rustoleum high heat BBQ paint in almond, inexpensive and holds up well. In Missouri we have road salt so they get rusty, but I personally like the white/cream with rust coming through, like how painted bumpers rust.
The headers are also painted with the same stuff, being out of the line of fire of road debris, they look like when I put them on.

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Everything on mine is stainless except for about 4-5ft of pipe so ill probably just tape off and paint the aluminized stuff. I was going to do a Chevelle style rounded rhomboid and try to line it up with the dimple in the bed, but decided I would probably piss myself off trying to get it lined up perfect. Nope..a turndown is much more forgiving.

 

[TerryRH]

Go with the X-pipe

Learned that on Engine Masters

 

[TerryRH]

Then again, since you're not looking at max performance and want some lope, the H-pipe would be better for you. H-pipe is better than straight pipe

 

[Frankenchevy]

Then again, since you're not looking at max performance and want some lope, the H-pipe would be better for you. H-pipe is better than straight pipe

I think Steve and Dave’s conclusion is that they’d go with the H-pipe. But yeah, the x pipe was marginally better on the dyno.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I really do think the h-pipe mellows the sound out at low rpm. I don’t believe it changes it too much at WOT.

I wanted to not create a low spot for condensation to collect, so I went over the driveshaft. Used some cheap clamps to be able to pull the exhaust a little easier. I’ve

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[78C10BigTen]

I'm the same way with exhaust exits, I do not care at all for pipes that exit straight out the back of a truck, because almost never both will be lined up and symmetric, or on some newer stuff I see exhausts come out at a compound 45 almost(aftermarket yee yee stuff), which looks silly imo too. Out the sides gives a little more leadway since can only really see one side at a time lol.

That's just Rustoleum high heat BBQ paint in almond, inexpensive and holds up well. In Missouri we have road salt so they get rusty, but I personally like the white/cream with rust coming through, like how painted bumpers rust.
The headers are also painted with the same stuff, being out of the line of fire of road debris, they look like when I put them on.

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I like your truck! Those wide steels and dog dishes...

 

[Rusty Nail]

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Yeah . looks good! @legopnuematic

At 30mph I was getting unbearable drone with two straight pipes with mufflers and short turn downs so I installed a cross pipe using the same size pipe and utilizing a slip joint on one side so I can pull the pipe and mufflers individual and don’t need to fight both at one time. Cut down on the drone a bunch and it is now a pleasure to drive around.

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Wait till you try tailpipes instead of dumps.. and get it out from under the bed..makes all the difference in the world.
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H pipe is the shizznit. You'll kick yourself for waiting so long.

The difference is that it doesn't pop. Bet you'll be amazed..it runs way moar gooder. I found throttle response in an H pipe.

I cannot condone their use enough.

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[Ricko1966]

Yeah . looks good!


H pipe is the shizznit. You'll kick yourself for waiting so long.

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Your alive!!!Your alive!!! I had to put up a cat video the other day, it just didn't seem right.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Lmao dude wtf. Busy time of year..workin hard.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

H-pipe before finishing the trimming of hangers and whatnot. This was also slapped together within an hour lol, just a "get me by" exhaust. Would recommend not welding the H-pipe solid, just use band clamps instead. In case you have to drop the exhaust or drivetrain.

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[68post]

I use the Summit universal H-pipe kits, they're aluminized and I buy their AL'zd straight pipes and mandrel bends. Then wire brush the welds and use AL paint . Holds up well -even in salty Indiana !
Need to rebuild all of it on my K30, soon, starting with new headers. Most of it will be 3" - if not all of it, but not too loud. (454 now - perhaps 496 or 506 in the future)