Finally got a running 65 C10

[1low4x4]

They're not, but when you're stabbing the whole shebang, that does add difficulty. If you were to install the engine with the bellhousing, you'd get those four bolts tightened easily, then you could install the transmission.

You went a different route, and nothing wrong with your approach, but because you have everything bolted on, you have cantilevered weight(tranny) fighting you. Support the tail, and wriggle it all into position, leaving no weight on the engine mounts or bellhousing mounts, let it sit above so you can start the four bolts (2-engine mount), (2-bellhousing). Once those are threaded in by hand, lower it down and tighten them. Unless someone altered the frame, you have no trans mount, it's all engine and bellhousing and the trans floats.

There’s actually many threads out there on various websites about the difficulty of getting these bolts in. Poor design compared to 73+

 

[Ricko1966]

It was an excellent design for the 1964 assembly line. Maybe not the most convenient for a 50 year later engine swap.

 

[1low4x4]

It was an excellent design for the 1964 assembly line. Maybe not the most convenient for a 50 year later engine swap.

There’s actually a guy posted that worked on the assembly line and said they had to loosen the frame mounts just to get the bolts started…..

 

[DoubleDingo]

There’s actually many threads out there on various websites about the difficulty of getting these bolts in. Poor design compared to 73+

I've never had any problems. I respectfully disagree that it's difficult. It is when you cantilever the transmission off the back, though. Ideally you should have bolted the bellhousing on by itself, then proceeded from there.

 

[DoubleDingo]

There’s actually a guy posted that worked on the assembly line and said they had to loosen the frame mounts just to get the bolts started…..

If they are snugged up before there is an engine installed, I can see that, but removing and replacing an engine, the holes should line up just fine with the method I mentioned.

 

[1low4x4]

I've never had any problems. I respectfully disagree that it's difficult. It is when you cantilever the transmission off the back, though. Ideally you should have bolted the bellhousing on by itself, then proceeded from there.

It is what it is, Just search online and youll find tons of articles about it. Especially compared to the squarebody mounts with the horizontal bolts

I got them in, and easier than having to mount the trans under the truck btw

 

[1low4x4]

Got the engine/trans bolted down, left side header in (bitch) Z bar in (bitch) and working on the clutch linkage. Looks like I'm missing the number 3 piece on this link https://www.lmctruck.com/mechanical/clutch/cbe-1963-66-clutch-linkage so I'll have to order that

 

[1low4x4]

If they are snugged up before there is an engine installed, I can see that, but removing and replacing an engine, the holes should line up just fine with the method I mentioned.

The problem is you have to either remove the fuel pump or go underneath the truck to get the passenger side bolt in the motor mount, and you have to be a contortionist to do the left side from the top of the truck. Bottom line it’s not a great design, not as great as the horizontal bolt that just slides right through after you set the engine on it the first try. If I have to get under the truck to install motor mount bolts, I’m not happy.That’s all I’m saying

 

[1low4x4]

Got the starter in and hooked up. Got both headers in and hooked up, collectors not hooked up yet. Hooked up the oil pressure sending unit thing.

I still need to order a distributor, plugs, wires, fluids when I can afford it. This economy seems to be killing construction here.