Finally got a running 65 C10

[legopnuematic]

A magnet on a stick might be enough to have it stuck on the end of the valve stem and keep the valve held up to slip the retainers on.

Or not, but might work.

 

[Ricko1966]

A magnet on a stick might be enough to have it stuck on the end of the valve stem and keep the valve held up to slip the retainers on.

Or not, but might work.

This might be interesting considering how many times I've pulled the keepers with a magnet. I can just see the valve held up and 32 keepers stuck on the magnet

 

[1low4x4]

Is this the correct placement for the throwout bearing? I guess that’s what that’s called.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Is this the correct placement for the throwout bearing? I guess that’s what that’s called.

Looks good to me. You have the bearing part facing the clutch.

 

[DoubleDingo]

I thought I had a pic of my setup but the only one of the clutch shows how much life was left on it after I bought the truck. Nothing that shows the fork and throw out bearing.

 

[1low4x4]

Got the springs in, rockers on and adjusted, clutch on, transmission set. Intake manifold on, need to slap the motor mount brackets on and take the hood off the truck

No pics tonight I’m not resizing them

 

[WFO]

So I’m having trouble compressing my springs enough to get the little retainers in. I guess I should have done this before I put the heads on the engine. Even with the piston at the very top of the cylinder, I still have a quarter inch or maybe a little more of travel in the valvestem up and down. I need to be able to hold the valve closed, but I don’t own an air compressor anymore (I know). I could go get a pancake compressor, but I don’t know what to buy to screw in to the spark plug hole to put air in.

Maybe the rope trick? I saw some guy stick like 4 feet of nylon rope into the cylinder and maybe that would help hold the valves shut?

With the piston down, I had a buddy hold the valve up with the handle end of a screwdriver through the intake port while I compressed the spring.

 

[1low4x4]

With the piston down, I had a buddy hold the valve up with the handle end of a screwdriver through the intake port while I compressed the spring.

I ended up using an old spark plug wire as suggested earlier. Got it close to the top, stuck the plug wire in as far as it would go, and then turned the engine over until the piston wouldn’t move anymore.

 

[1low4x4]

Close

 

[1low4x4]

I’m going to wait to drop the engine in until I can buy a new distributor. This one has seen better days. Cap coil and rotor too. Work has been super slow lately. It’s been grocery money only.

 

[1low4x4]

Here’s a question. I was noticing that the valve stem guide Seals are being held up in many instances by the inner spring. Will these receipt and stay where they need to be as the valve spring compresses?

 

[bucket]

Here’s a question. I was noticing that the valve stem guide Seals are being held up in many instances by the inner spring. Will these receipt and stay where they need to be as the valve spring compresses?

Are those the umbrella style seals that are in there? I think they will ride and still shed oil from the valve stems. But again, I'm not really any kind of engine builder, just an engine assembler.

 

[Dejure]

SIDE NOTE: My old 69 step side ran a 250 six with a 413 rear-end. I dropped a GTO 4 speed in it and first was way too tall. Swapped it for a 4 speed from a Lemans and it was perfect.

I wanted even better mileage, so bit the bullet and swapped the Lemans transmission for a 3 speed with overdrive out of a 62 wagon.

With a Hurst shifter and custom woodwork (wrapping the shift arm in wood with a flair at the top, which housed the rocker switch that allowed me to kick the overdrive in and out at the touch of a finger), it became my favorite.

 

[1low4x4]

Got the hood off, engine in and hood back on in an hour

It needs to go back about an inch for the bolts to fit. Those 60s motor mounts are way harder to line up than a square body it seems

 

[DoubleDingo]

Got the hood off, engine in and hood back on in an hour

It needs to go back about an inch for the bolts to fit. Those 60s motor mounts are way harder to line up than a square body it seems

They're not, but when you're stabbing the whole shebang, that does add difficulty. If you were to install the engine with the bellhousing, you'd get those four bolts tightened easily, then you could install the transmission.

You went a different route, and nothing wrong with your approach, but because you have everything bolted on, you have cantilevered weight(tranny) fighting you. Support the tail, and wriggle it all into position, leaving no weight on the engine mounts or bellhousing mounts, let it sit above so you can start the four bolts (2-engine mount), (2-bellhousing). Once those are threaded in by hand, lower it down and tighten them. Unless someone altered the frame, you have no trans mount, it's all engine and bellhousing and the trans floats.