cookiemonster
Junior Member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2018
- Posts
- 7
- Reaction score
- 2
- Location
- Frozen wasteland of northern Canada
- First Name
- Simon
- Truck Year
- 1983
- Truck Model
- c10
- Engine Size
- 350
Hello all, I got a 1983 c10 with an almost stock 350, believe it has an RV cam. It sat for a long time before I bought it and got it running.
Things I've done:
Rebuilt Holley carb
Installed overkill 2ga ground wire from engine to frame, firewall to engine
New 800cca battery
New battery cables + terminals
Summit racing type MSD ignition + distributor + coil + msd 8.5 wires + ac delco plugs .050 gap
Timing @ 34 BTDC (will redo at 36 soon)
New mechanical gauges + tach
Headers
valve covers + thermostat housing
Truck was running like a beauty (albeit very loud with open headers), ground straps (and re-tentionning alternator belt) solved a few issues I had such as low voltage at idle, dimming headlights, horn not working, difficulty starting and sometimes no power at all to ignition because the Positive Batt cable to starter was junk. It was running great everything worked even the exhaust guy commented on that.
Then I took it to get welded at the exhaust shop, go to pick it up after, key in, no start. No power to ignition, lights worked but heat and every switched 12volt didnt. Got her started with a screwdriver on the starter and drove to work. turned her off. for kicks, i turned the ignition and it fired right up so I thought whatever it was was gone.
Then I go to start it later to confirm, no power to anything on the ignition. Left key on, walked away. then later i walk by my truck and hear the heater is going which usually happens with key on. It fired right up. key off, then no start again.
I thought I traced the issue to the High setting on the heater somehow shorting, the heater would keep going for a minute with the key out of the ignition then turn itself off for some reason. And now my truck starts every time when the heater is off, only does half the time when its on. Horn doesn't work anymore but that might be unrelated. turn signals click very fast, but if i apply brakes, they go veeeery slow. All bulbs work except passenger side reverse light, the wire ripped out but its been like that before I had issues.
Fuses, all good. tested with a light and had to replace a 30amp one. new Voltmeter gives 14 volts with truck on. When heat is turned to high, idle slows a bit from 650-700 down to 500 and oil pressure drops slightly too as expected. none of my gauges work in the original cluster, gas gauge used to work fine so did the temp and volt meter. Gauge lights work. oil pressure gauge and speedo are disconnected so no worries there.
Is there any thing I should look at that pops to mind? I was thinking fusible links, but why does stuff work and quit working without even touching or moving the truck?
Thanks to any and all input, I'm armed with a test light and a multimeter but would like to know where I should point and shoot them if possible
Things I've done:
Rebuilt Holley carb
Installed overkill 2ga ground wire from engine to frame, firewall to engine
New 800cca battery
New battery cables + terminals
Summit racing type MSD ignition + distributor + coil + msd 8.5 wires + ac delco plugs .050 gap
Timing @ 34 BTDC (will redo at 36 soon)
New mechanical gauges + tach
Headers
valve covers + thermostat housing
Truck was running like a beauty (albeit very loud with open headers), ground straps (and re-tentionning alternator belt) solved a few issues I had such as low voltage at idle, dimming headlights, horn not working, difficulty starting and sometimes no power at all to ignition because the Positive Batt cable to starter was junk. It was running great everything worked even the exhaust guy commented on that.
Then I took it to get welded at the exhaust shop, go to pick it up after, key in, no start. No power to ignition, lights worked but heat and every switched 12volt didnt. Got her started with a screwdriver on the starter and drove to work. turned her off. for kicks, i turned the ignition and it fired right up so I thought whatever it was was gone.
Then I go to start it later to confirm, no power to anything on the ignition. Left key on, walked away. then later i walk by my truck and hear the heater is going which usually happens with key on. It fired right up. key off, then no start again.
I thought I traced the issue to the High setting on the heater somehow shorting, the heater would keep going for a minute with the key out of the ignition then turn itself off for some reason. And now my truck starts every time when the heater is off, only does half the time when its on. Horn doesn't work anymore but that might be unrelated. turn signals click very fast, but if i apply brakes, they go veeeery slow. All bulbs work except passenger side reverse light, the wire ripped out but its been like that before I had issues.
Fuses, all good. tested with a light and had to replace a 30amp one. new Voltmeter gives 14 volts with truck on. When heat is turned to high, idle slows a bit from 650-700 down to 500 and oil pressure drops slightly too as expected. none of my gauges work in the original cluster, gas gauge used to work fine so did the temp and volt meter. Gauge lights work. oil pressure gauge and speedo are disconnected so no worries there.
Is there any thing I should look at that pops to mind? I was thinking fusible links, but why does stuff work and quit working without even touching or moving the truck?
Thanks to any and all input, I'm armed with a test light and a multimeter but would like to know where I should point and shoot them if possible
) than I do.
