Engine break in

[firebane]

Somebody wrote this and it sounds like a damn good idea:

Just a little trick I learned back in the Nam:

A couple of years ago I was trying to pre-prime an engine prior to break in. It was about this time of year and the garage was probably 10 degrees F. I had the priming distributor chucked up in a 1/2 Milwaukee Hole Shooter and it was a struggle to even hold the drill motor - never mind get oil flow up to the rockers.

I took a couple of contractor flood lights, set them on milk crates so they were right up near the oil pan, turned them on and walked away for the night.

Next AM - still just as cold in the garage. But when I cranked up the drill - what a difference! I could hold the drill handle with one hand, the gauge I had screwed into the top oil port immediately shot up to 45 psi and oil was gushing out of the tops of the push rods within a minute.

Since then I always use heat lamps or flood lights (even in warm weather) to pre-heat the oil in the sump (it usually gets up to about 120 F). I figure that way, it is getting to every far corner of the system - much more effectively than if the oil is cold.

PS:

http://answers.canadiantire.ca/answ...r-heat-magnet-questions-answers/questions.htm

 

[Skweegle89]

Somebody wrote this and it sounds like a damn good idea:

Just a little trick I learned back in the Nam:

A couple of years ago I was trying to pre-prime an engine prior to break in. It was about this time of year and the garage was probably 10 degrees F. I had the priming distributor chucked up in a 1/2 Milwaukee Hole Shooter and it was a struggle to even hold the drill motor - never mind get oil flow up to the rockers.

I took a couple of contractor flood lights, set them on milk crates so they were right up near the oil pan, turned them on and walked away for the night.

Next AM - still just as cold in the garage. But when I cranked up the drill - what a difference! I could hold the drill handle with one hand, the gauge I had screwed into the top oil port immediately shot up to 45 psi and oil was gushing out of the tops of the push rods within a minute.

Since then I always use heat lamps or flood lights (even in warm weather) to pre-heat the oil in the sump (it usually gets up to about 120 F). I figure that way, it is getting to every far corner of the system - much more effectively than if the oil is cold.

I actually read that a couple weeks ago. Good idea.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Skweegle89]

Do you have an Advance Auto nearby?

If so, they carry Lucas Oil Products TB Zinc-Plus Engine Break-In Oil Additive.

I don't know the ZDDP content as compared with Comp Cams break-in fluid, but it must be wicked high. Lucas claims that the engine oil contains "5000 to 5200 ppm of zinc when (16 ounces of their product) is mixed into a 5 qt system".

But the good thing about Comp Cams break-in fluid is how sticky it is. You can assemble an engine and - even after a month or so in hot weather - when comes time for break-in, the parts will still have a good coating on them.

Ordering Comp Cams additive now. Going to run my first 2 changes with Rotella 15-40, being as how I have a 200 gallon tank full out here in the shop. Do I need to run the comp additive in the first 2 changes, or just in the first 30 minute startup? I think I read somewhere that you said the rotella had 13 or 1400ppm. Just trying to figure out how much of this stuff to buy.

 

[firebane]

Ordering Comp Cams additive now. Going to run my first 2 changes with Rotella 15-40, being as how I have a 200 gallon tank full out here in the shop. Do I need to run the comp additive in the first 2 changes, or just in the first 30 minute startup? I think I read somewhere that you said the rotella had 13 or 1400ppm. Just trying to figure out how much of this stuff to buy.

You need to run ZDDP essentially in every oil change LOL.

Its why I'm running oil specifically made with high levels of zddp. Only costs me $45-50 for oil.

 

[Skweegle89]

You need to run ZDDP essentially in every oil change LOL.

Its why I'm running oil specifically made with high levels of zddp. Only costs me $45-50 for oil.

lol I hate subjects like this. There are just so many opinions. You and lots of other people are telling me to run it all the time, yet I have read multiple articles lately that state running high levels of zddp after initial break in actually promotes accelerated wear on internals, yet nobody has actually had any problems doing it either way except for the occasional guy that rants about him doing it one way or the other and wiping a cam lobe in the first 5 minutes. Then there are the old school guys around here that think its a government plot to convert everything to electric cars and just run plain cheap oil from break and the life of the motor. ****** part is, there is no true way to tell because even in a controlled study there are too many variables.

 

[firebane]

lol I hate subjects like this. There are just so many opinions. You and lots of other people are telling me to run it all the time, yet I have read multiple articles lately that state running high levels of zddp after initial break in actually promotes accelerated wear on internals, yet nobody has actually had any problems doing it either way except for the occasional guy that rants about him doing it one way or the other and wiping a cam lobe in the first 5 minutes. Then there are the old school guys around here that think its a government plot to convert everything to electric cars and just run plain cheap oil from break and the life of the motor. ****** part is, there is no true way to tell because even in a controlled study there are too many variables.

Well I tell you what. Since I spent quite a bit of money on my cam, lifters, and pushrods I think I'm going to take every precautionary measure to ensure they don't get wiped or worn..

 

[Skweegle89]

Well I tell you what. Since I spent quite a bit of money on my cam, lifters, and pushrods I think I'm going to take every precautionary measure to ensure they don't get wiped or worn..

Oh I agree, and I'm not saying your incorrect in doing so. I know nothing on the subject other than what I have read in the last couple weeks, all of which was so contradictory that I'm not any better off than when I started. I ordered enough for the first two oil changes. That will get me by long enough to determine if I'm going run a high zinc oil, or regular oil with an additive, or whatever third option that might be out there.

I appreciate your help.

 

[firebane]

Oh I agree, and I'm not saying your incorrect in doing so. I know nothing on the subject other than what I have read in the last couple weeks, all of which was so contradictory that I'm not any better off than when I started. I ordered enough for the first two oil changes. That will get me by long enough to determine if I'm going run a high zinc oil, or regular oil with an additive, or whatever third option that might be out there.

I appreciate your help.

Running regular oil with a zinc additive is just fine as running oil with zinc already added.

I have the option of running oil with high zinc content so I will.

 

[Don5]

lol I hate subjects like this. There are just so many opinions. You and lots of other people are telling me to run it all the time, yet I have read multiple articles lately that state running high levels of zddp after initial break in actually promotes accelerated wear on internals, yet nobody has actually had any problems doing it either way except for the occasional guy that rants about him doing it one way or the other and wiping a cam lobe in the first 5 minutes. Then there are the old school guys around here that think its a government plot to convert everything to electric cars and just run plain cheap oil from break and the life of the motor. ****** part is, there is no true way to tell because even in a controlled study there are too many variables.

This has been a very eye opening thread for this old school guy- old guy in general. I think I would get the comp cam additive just to be safe. Having said that I will say this as well. I have never heard of using a zinc additive in every oil change. But then again I am not familiar with engine building lately as I have not had to build one for awhile. The last one I built was in 1991 and I just restarted it last year after sitting out the weather all these years.

Back when I built the engine I used assembly lube on the bearings and coated the camshaft with the included cam lube. I also used a oil pump primer as well. I never added anything to the oil when I changed my oil either after the initial break in. The camshaft was a hydraulic cam as well. This break in was the way it was done from as far back as I can remember. The engine in my truck is a 1972 350 block bored 30 over.

So am I to understand that from now on I need to put an additive in at every oil change due to a change in formula of engine oil?

I find this hard to believe.

 

[Skweegle89]

This has been a very eye opening thread for this old school guy- old guy in general. I think I would get the comp cam additive just to be safe. Having said that I will say this as well. I have never heard of using a zinc additive in every oil change. But then again I am not familiar with engine building lately as I have not had to build one for awhile. The last one I built was in 1991 and I just restarted it last year after sitting out the weather all these years.

Back when I built the engine I used assembly lube on the bearings and coated the camshaft with the included cam lube. I also used a oil pump primer as well. I never added anything to the oil when I changed my oil either after the initial break in. The camshaft was a hydraulic cam as well. This break in was the way it was done from as far back as I can remember. The engine in my truck is a 1972 350 block bored 30 over.

So am I to understand that from now on I need to put an additive in at every oil change due to a change in formula of engine oil?

I find this hard to believe.

I have seen the literature on why the zddp is needed. They took it out of most oils because it plugs catalytic converters and is no longer needed because everything has roller cams/lifters in them now. I was just curious as to weather or not those high zinc levels were needed after break in. The oil I am going to use for break in has 1400ppm, while I believe 1500 is recommended. Basically just wanted to know if the -100ppm would be a problem if I continued to use that oil with no additive.

 

[firebane]

This has been a very eye opening thread for this old school guy- old guy in general. I think I would get the comp cam additive just to be safe. Having said that I will say this as well. I have never heard of using a zinc additive in every oil change. But then again I am not familiar with engine building lately as I have not had to build one for awhile. The last one I built was in 1991 and I just restarted it last year after sitting out the weather all these years.

Back when I built the engine I used assembly lube on the bearings and coated the camshaft with the included cam lube. I also used a oil pump primer as well. I never added anything to the oil when I changed my oil either after the initial break in. The camshaft was a hydraulic cam as well. This break in was the way it was done from as far back as I can remember. The engine in my truck is a 1972 350 block bored 30 over.

So am I to understand that from now on I need to put an additive in at every oil change due to a change in formula of engine oil?

I find this hard to believe.

ZDDP levels in oil used to be quite high and allowed us to not worry about the additive. But with O2 sensors and catalytic converters the zddp destroys them so they had to lower the zddp quantities to almost nothing which now for our older engines can be death.

Additive is cheap... Oil with the additive is cheap as well. To me.. I'd prefer my engine to run as long as possible.

 

[Don5]

Well I guess that since they took the lead out of gasoline it stands to reason they could take the zinc out of oil as well. Progress...

 

[Don5]

ZDDP levels in oil used to be quite high and allowed us to not worry about the additive. But with O2 sensors and catalytic converters the zddp destroys them so they had to lower the zddp quantities to almost nothing which now for our older engines can be death.

Additive is cheap... Oil with the additive is cheap as well. To me.. I'd prefer my engine to run as long as possible.

That makes sense. I hear you about the engine. They aren't getting any cheaper to build that is for sure. By the way-what is a catalytic converter? None on my truck-yet.

 

[Skweegle89]

Well I guess it's decided. Our shop manager just gave me a 55 gallon drum of rotella for free because it was in the way and he didn't have anywhere to put it. And they have a huge tank full. Man I love my job. Now I just have to figure out how to fit it in my garage.


Sent from an old rotary telephone.

 

[chengny]

Ordering Comp Cams additive now. Going to run my first 2 changes with Rotella 15-40, being as how I have a 200 gallon tank full out here in the shop. Do I need to run the comp additive in the first 2 changes, or just in the first 30 minute startup? I think I read somewhere that you said the rotella had 13 or 1400ppm. Just trying to figure out how much of this stuff to buy.

First of all, I made a mistake.

When I suggested using Comp Cams Additive on the cams/lifter bottoms (because of it's tendency to remain where applied) , I actually meant Comp Cams Assembly Lube (part # 103).

Assembly Lube must be applied before the engine is closed. And apparently, you are all dropped in and ready to do the break-in procedure - so that ship has sailed. Forget about it.

I am not an expert by any means, so consider the source. But, as far as the supplemental zinc additive (whichever brand you choose):

For the break-in and the two subsequent oil changes, I have had excellent results with Rotella T 15W-40 and one bottle of high zinc additive.

After that I change over to Mobil 1 15W-50 (or 5W-50). This is just a personal choice and is based on my laziness/forgetfulness to change my oil on a frequent basis. Those two Mobil 1 products have a high ZDDP content (1300/1100). And, since they are synthetic, will retain their initial lubrication properties for much longer than conventional oils.

But, to answer your question; After the first two oil changes (with zinc additive), it is perfectly all right to just run straight Shell Rotella T 15W-40.

BTW - Excellent score on the free drum of Rotella T. That drum is like a $600 value!

You must be registered for see images attach

SHELL ROTELLA T 3 15W-40
55GAL. DRUM
ON-LINE SPECIAL
ITEM #: 550019911
REG. PRICE: $594.55

Here is a recent quote from Richard Moore (of Shell's marketing department) on the ZDDP content of Rotella T 15W-40;

"There is approximate 1200 parts per million ZDDP in Rotella T 15W-40,
which is 50% higher than is allowed in Starburst motor oils (API
SN/GF-5). Thank you for your interest in Shell products.

Richard Moore"