EFI conversion on l31 swap

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87silveradok20

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Hey now he doesn’t have cummins. That’s what the cummins guys think they run


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rpcraft

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This is a very valid point here. Unless you just want a new long block an LS will be about the same place price wise after you buy all this stuff...

I'd venture it's actually better than the after market options because it is a more finely tuned EFI, with multipoint FI, rather than a TBI setup (which the sniper and FITech systems still are). The cost of an LS swap is not as cheap as many will advertise, but I think given the components are all stock, it can be more reliable once setup and replacement parts can literally be found at a wrecking yard in many circumstances, and the upside is if you decide later to add boost or something similar, the stock LS ECU is easier to adapt to it because it skips the headache of trying to adapt a non blow through setup to a blow through setup, you just disable the MAF and swap to a three bar MAP setup, work with a tuner to fiddle with your tune, and you can literally bolt on a turbo now thanks to some of the companies making hot side kits. Holly just came out with on recently that is less than 600 bucks, so you literally just have to source your turbo and accessories, which are pretty much all bolt on, then decide how you want to dump your exhaust and setup a cooler setup.
 

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I'd venture it's actually better than the after market options because it is a more finely tuned EFI, with multipoint FI, rather than a TBI setup (which the sniper and FITech systems still are). The cost of an LS swap is not as cheap as many will advertise, but I think given the components are all stock, it can be more reliable once setup and replacement parts can literally be found at a wrecking yard in many circumstances, and the upside is if you decide later to add boost or something similar, the stock LS ECU is easier to adapt to it because it skips the headache of trying to adapt a non blow through setup to a blow through setup, you just disable the MAF and swap to a three bar MAP setup, work with a tuner to fiddle with your tune, and you can literally bolt on a turbo now thanks to some of the companies making hot side kits. Holly just came out with on recently that is less than 600 bucks, so you literally just have to source your turbo and accessories, which are pretty much all bolt on, then decide how you want to dump your exhaust and setup a cooler setup.


I'm about to make a hotside that costs about 150 bucks and let's me keep my factory AC lol. LS engines are like lego's, they are just dirt simple.
 

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Yes, but not everyone has the ability to make a hotside so that is a consideration as well
 

Frankenchevy

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I thought about it a couple ways. Im not worried about building a beast here. Just something I’m comfortable doing alone. zero miles on an engine is always nice, too. I could just see myself being the guy whose fresh LS swap turns out to need a rebuild. Anyway, if I need something with pulling power, I have a diesel. Hell, I can’t remember the last time I even had the truck at WOT. I just love the way the truck looks and want to build something simple and clean; plus improve on drivability when I’m up in the high country.

im doing this swap alone and I’m confident with this type of setup. I want it to look more classic in the engine bay, either way. I hear you guys on the LS though...just not what I want to do at the moment.
 

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most of the fresh LS swaps start off with motors that have 100K plus miles, and the guys doing turbo's usually don't do much other than gap the rings a little more and then they beat the piss out of them afterwards... Food for thought. I bought a complete dropout with 60,000 miles on it, the harness, ECU, all the intake and exhaust (including o2 sensors) along with a 4l60E for a 4x4 for 1500 bucks. That same setup at 120K would probably have been half
 

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Well shoot, if someone wants to come over and help me knock it out!

In all seriousness though, how difficult are the pedals, gauges and whatever has to be done to the steering column for the shifter? What has to be done above and beyond what a traditional swap takes? And how different will the inside of the truck look?
 

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If your standard and want to stay that way most of the stock pedal stuff can be used but I think the problem is the LS doesn't have the provision for the ball where the z bar needs to rotate so most everyone swaps to a to hydraulic clutch, and I think it swaps with the stock pedal easily. I don't pay attention to the standard swaps too much but I think aside from that you use a specific pilot bearing, clutch, and flywheel, which are all oem parts and with the right motor mounts you drop your motor in and bolt the transmission up and don't even have to modify your driveshaft to get it running. There's other parts and stuff that do cost, but I think if you had a good plan to start with, got a good price on a motor, pcm and harness, you could probably do a swap for a realistic price of around 2k... Sometimes less, sometimes more. It all just depends on your ability to do some DIY learning and wrecking yard parts sourcing.
 

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Well shoot, if someone wants to come over and help me knock it out!

In all seriousness though, how difficult are the pedals, gauges and whatever has to be done to the steering column for the shifter? What has to be done above and beyond what a traditional swap takes? And how different will the inside of the truck look?

They make a million engine mounts, no issue there.

The pedals can stay as is if you use a Drive By Cable setup like I have, 99-02 in general.

You can use a 90-91 K5 or Suburban cluster and keep the dash look.

Your auto will bolt to it if you like, or the ecm can easily run the OD trans of your choice.

For what you're looking at spending on a 350 with injection, you can just swap an LS. Even with buying a harness and tune file.

So it's almost 6 one way, half dozen the other. I was content with my small block too, but the price of taking it to the next level was greater than the price of an LS.
 

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The truck has a turbo 400. I was under the impression you needed to swap fuel pedal and gauges. If I went through the trouble of a modern engine, I’d want a modern tranny. Does that mean new transfer case or moving the transfer case, changing drive lines etc.?
 

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The truck has a turbo 400. I was under the impression you needed to swap fuel pedal and gauges. If I went through the trouble of a modern engine, I’d want a modern tranny. Does that mean new transfer case or moving the transfer case, changing drive lines etc.?

Disregard the first part now that I see your previous post.
 

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Separate question, IF I decided I needed something better in the future (injection wise) and didn’t mind the look of it, aren’t there tpi setups for l31 heads? Pretty far off IF, though...
 

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You can use your TH400 or you can get an adapter to mate up a 4l80e and have the strength plus OD. If you have your NP208 you can use it and it can be adapted (might bolt right up depending on your current adapter. Can't 100 % remmber there (sorry). Fuel pedal depends on the engine setup, there are DBC and DBW setups and the older models from about 2000 to 2003 all have a manual pedal with 4l80e and a good strong 6.0 Ls motor so you have choices. Heck if you want, depending on what is in your truck, if you want AC and cruise that can easily be made to work as well. if you swap to the 4l80E as JRgunn mentioned you can use a 90 - 91 Burb cluster to offer vehicle speed and all your normal other gauge info into the PCM and onto your dash and the upside of that is when you change tires sizes you can adjust with a computer and make it 100 % accurate. Check out these youtube video's to get a grip on what you can do, what you might need, and keep in mind you can go from mild to wild on your swap, so it can be clean and neat, and not have to be a show truck money spent on it.


https://www.youtube.com/user/wgreen32680/videos
 

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