E-brake options after BIG lift?

[projo198]

Since you are working with a sort of blank slate, here is what the early style is:
And then the later style. Much more simple and how most (likely all) are now.

You’d have to do some measuring to see, but this is the stock passenger side cable for an 85 K30, it’s the long side, almost 53 inches on the housing length. It has that long threaded end for an adjuster, but you could likely cut it short and either use the remaining piece to retain it, or cut it off and put a universal end on it, or adapt the threaded portion to the setup. This is assuming you stick with the earlier style cable system that runs down each frame rail.

Drivers side for an 85 K30, housing is a touch over 33”. Shorter by a good bit than the passenger side, but still longer than the earlier style cables.


For reference a stock 78 K30 cable is a 28 inch long housing.

Wow, great feedback thanks! I like the idea of the 85 cables you showed and could get matching lengths for each side depending on how much I need.

The end that goes into the axle looks like it is push in rather than the bolt-on bracket mine has, but I believe I could make it work by fabbing that 2-bolt bracket and depending on the size of the hole there.

I was planning on running the cables up the frame rails, welding in eyelet bolts if loop brackets aren't present.

 

[legopnuematic]

Another possible source would be 1994-2000 dodge ram 2500s, those are even longer cables than the squarebody stuff. Same basic setup as the later 80s GMs but without the threaded ends.

If you have the capability to fab parts, that really opens up the possibilities on how to make something work.

The nice advantage of the later style cable setups is they are all above the bottom of the frame rail, only do the cables drop when they are on their way to the axle.

 

[Bennyt]

I installed a 14BFF in my Jimmy(K5) along with disc brakes. I mounted my calipers upside down with the left on the right, right on left. This allowed the cables to go over the axle and not snag and additional few inches of slack.

To bleed, I'd unbolt and turn the bleeder up and put a small piece of 2x4 in between the pads.

I never felt like I got enough travel out of the pedal so I considered adding an estopp or a ratcheting pedal or handle

 

[Old Guy Bill]

Mines the older style.
I used a universal cable on both sides of the rear with the factory mounts.
I adapted them to fit the factory clamp on the backing plate after cutting them to length.