E-brake options after BIG lift?

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projo198

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I am trying to find a solution for extending the e-brake cables coming from the rear drums. This is a '78 K10 but I installed 1-ton axles.

1. This truck is lifted VERY high. I've read a lot about getting these for 4-6" lifts but I'm going need more than that.

2. I also would prefer not to do a line lock, electric or manual.

3. Welding on drop down brackets would be very long, and I don't want them obstructing anything or causing a driving hazard.

Thoughts?
 

EvilGenius

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How big of a lift are you talking? From looking at this snip the easiest option to me is extend that bracket downward enough that the stock length cables reach. Then add the necessary extensions to the cable length on the left of that union piece.

The good news with extending down that frame bracket is it is up close to the spring hanger. So it should be protected from hitting things as long as it doesn't get too long.

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TotalyHucked

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Check out Estopp electric e-brake setups. Also Wilwood has one. They can be mounted just about anywhere and work off a button to pull he cables.
 

projo198

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How big of a lift are you talking? From looking at this snip the easiest option to me is extend that bracket downward enough that the stock length cables reach. Then add the necessary extensions to the cable length on the left of that union piece.

The good news with extending down that frame bracket is it is up close to the spring hanger. So it should be protected from hitting things as long as it doesn't get too long.

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Thanks! It is probably lifted a little over a foot, so would have to be a very noticeable extension.
 

projo198

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Check out Estopp electric e-brake setups. Also Wilwood has one. They can be mounted just about anywhere and work off a button to pull he cables.
Whoooo those are pricey! Thanks! Wouldn't address the issues at my axle though unless I installed 2 of them.
 
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legopnuematic

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If you move the mounts forward, shorten the cables ahead of the brackets and source longer cables to the backing plates, that will help your angles out. That way it still holds tight to the frame and won’t be a ground dragger.

Maybe able to get a universal kit that’s long enough, or search rock auto or local auto parts sites for some longer cable used for some other vehicle.

Fwiw, the 80s and 90s GM trucks use a different system than the 70s use which may be of benefit to switch to a later style. Or could be a source for cables as the passenger side is routed to the drivers side over the top of the axle, so it’s a nice and long cable.
 

projo198

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If you move the mounts forward, shorten the cables ahead of the brackets and source longer cables to the backing plates, that will help your angles out. That way it still holds tight to the frame and won’t be a ground dragger.

Maybe able to get a universal kit that’s long enough, or search rock auto or local auto parts sites for some longer cable used for some other vehicle.

Fwiw, the 80s and 90s GM trucks use a different system than the 70s use which may be of benefit to switch to a later style. Or could be a source for cables as the passenger side is routed to the drivers side over the top of the axle, so it’s a nice and long cable.
Thanks! The sky is the limit for routing cables as the PO only left me the parking brake pedal itself....
 

Frankenchevy

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Which transfer case? A non slip yoke TC can run a driveline brake. Not sure if you live in a state with inspections that require certain specifics or not…
 

projo198

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Which transfer case? A non slip yoke TC can run a driveline brake. Not sure if you live in a state with inspections that require certain specifics or not…
I have a 205 and live in Missouri. From what I've gathered anything that will stop your vehicle from rolling at idle will work. Never heard of a driveline brake though, will research.
 

legopnuematic

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Which transfer case? A non slip yoke TC can run a driveline brake. Not sure if you live in a state with inspections that require certain specifics or not…
In Missouri it should not be an issue.
 

legopnuematic

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They might. Not sure if the “barrel” on the end will would cause any problems being oriented like that or not. The original ones should be oriented like this:
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And you have a 14 bolt full floater correct?
 

projo198

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They might. Not sure if the “barrel” on the end will would cause any problems being oriented like that or not. The original ones should be oriented like this:
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And you have a 14 bolt full floater correct?
I was thinking that too, and if so if they would be strong enough to shave to the proper orientation and still have enough material.

And yes, 14-bolt floater with a Dana 60 up front!
 

legopnuematic

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225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
Since you are working with a sort of blank slate, here is what the early style is:
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And then the later style. Much more simple and how most (likely all) are now.
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You’d have to do some measuring to see, but this is the stock passenger side cable for an 85 K30, it’s the long side, almost 53 inches on the housing length. It has that long threaded end for an adjuster, but you could likely cut it short and either use the remaining piece to retain it, or cut it off and put a universal end on it, or adapt the threaded portion to the setup. This is assuming you stick with the earlier style cable system that runs down each frame rail.
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Drivers side for an 85 K30, housing is a touch over 33”. Shorter by a good bit than the passenger side, but still longer than the earlier style cables.
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For reference a stock 78 K30 cable is a 28 inch long housing.
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