Door won't close

[fallguy]

Passenger side door closes and latches but I can still push it from outside in about 1/2 inch....like it's not catching all the way??? It just started this today?

So it's closed and u cannot jus pull it open....but if u push on it it feels like u didn't close it all the way....if that make sense...I'm at a loss!

 

[chengny]

Does it move freely and clunk when you push/pull on it?

Or does it feel snug - and can only be pushed in with some effort?

The reason I ask is, it might just be that your cab/door gasket has popped free of it's ridge (for the lack of a better term). The gasket has a flexible steel liner in it that runs all around the door opening and keeps the rubber snapped tightly to the ridge (which also runs completely around the opening).

As these gaskets age, the steel looses it's clamping power and pops free (someone might have kicked it off with his boot). Once it starts to come off the ridge, it falls out and down on to the sill plate. If enough gets displaced, it can begin to affect the closing of the door.

Usually the steel clip can be re-tightened to a certain degree with a pair of pliers (but re-tightening is best done in a vise).

The rubber is harder to restore to it's original resilience however.

What I usually do is take the entire rubber out and rotate it 180 degrees - so that the lower section (that takes the most abuse) is at the top. The top section is usually still in near factory condition, so if you flip the gasket you will have a tight seal at the bottom. It takes a little patience to get a good fit because the rubber will have adopted the shape of the door as it was installed. But with a little persuasion, it will conform to the contours of the door opening. Be sure and tighten up the steel clamping strip and use a little contact cement where necessary.


Your seat belt isn't jamming the door is it?

 

[fallguy]

The rubber is new.

No obstructions.

The door closes...and stays closed but it's like the door latch is t grabbing the striker deep enough....if that makes any sense...so the door looks open like 1/4" and you can push the door in that far.

 

[chengny]

Jeez, dude you could have mentioned that the rubbers were new. It takes me forever to type a well thought-out answer - I could have skipped all that.

Just f*ckin' with you, I got nothing better to do and it helps me review the basics.

The new rubbers (after market correct?) are going to take some time to break in. You could adjust your strikers in, that would close up that 1/4". But you probably will have to really slam them to get them closed for awhile. And then, when the rubbers start to loose their "factory fresh" resiliency, you might develop a rattle or end up with a whistle.

I would keep the strikers where they were set for the OEM gasket. There is a good chance they will quickly develop the correct thickness without losing their bounce and sealing qualities - and your door gap will close up.

I am doing a restore and one thing I won't settle on is aftermarket door gaskets. Look around, NOS/OEM rubbers are still available for a decent price.

 

[HotRodPC]

Yep, I'd make sure my strikers still have the bushings on them. If not, do the old pex trick and see if that helps the issue.


http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=624

 

[fallguy]

Ya strikers still have the bushing so I will loosen and move inward to see if that solves it. If that's the answer I feel like a real ******* for askin the question. I'll report back.

When I replaced the striker in the drivers door I though the adjustment was minimally up and down not in and out, but I may remember wrong

 

[friscobob]

Remember too that the door has two latched positions, you might need to move the striker out instead of in, just a thought.
Bob

 

[fallguy]

Well ok I am an idiot. Just loosen em up and make small adjustments based off if the body lines...that's the ticket. Lots of trail and error. Thank you!