Dome light / horn fuse pops soon as I put one in

[HotRodPC]

Yea true that . 26 years of redneck wiring experts so . I guess all if these older trucks have there eltrical issues . But this truck seems pretty unmelested as for all that stuff so so kinda good on that . Now all I need to do is figure out my my sending units arnt working:/

Make sure your ground strap from motor to body is hooked up and connections aren't rusty.

 

[89Suburban]

Looking for some advice here. I want to disable the door switches from turning on the dome lights, but I want to be able to turn them on with the headlight switch. This would be for the courtesy light on the overhead console and the courtesy light on the rear A/C blower housing cover. Do I just pull the door pins and tape the wires off? I am wondering if I can find where they branch off of the courtesy light harness and just disconnect them that way? Do all the center door pin wires run up the pillar to the roof or do they run to the floor? I see for the rear barn door there is the spring loaded pin panel.

 

[chengny]

Schematics for courtesy- dome-vanity-glove box- cargo-underhood

For starters; wiring diagrams/troubleshooting charts for courtesy- dome-vanity-glove box- cargo-underhood systems - 1990 R/V,P trucks:

 

[chengny]

Better views of above:

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[89Suburban]

meh

 

[HotRodPC]

I'd put in a kill switch for the dome light. Find that circuit and put an inline switch as it's leaving the fuse block. The bad part, (I do believe) is that the door switches are wired to the dome light through the headlight switch. So if you kill the switch, it will also kill the ability to turn it on at the headlamp switch. So, you'd have to turn on your kill switch, and the headlamp switch. Then hit the kill switch so when you get out, the dome light does not come on. You do every every door through the kill switch, but that's alot of work and wire.

Or you could kill just the driver door switch. We used to do this on our GMT400 truck so we didn't wake the baby getting out of the truck.

 

[chengny]

meh

LOL! Wow, tough crowd.


Yes, as you suggest, the simplest way to prevent the domes/underdash from lighting up when the doors are opened is to disco the white lead from the back of the door jamb switches. Tape the ends.

That will eliminate the path to ground that is created when the switch is released.

All those lamps will still be hot via the orange wiring group and the circuit can still be grounded (and the dome/courtesy lamps illuminated) by turning the H/L dimmer switch all the way CCW.

The H/L switch is internally grounded and the body is grounded to the dash frame.

 

[89Suburban]

I did try to pull the "Tail/Ctsy" fuse and it did not go out but the tail lights did. So I am thinking it must be tied into the "Horn/CW" circuit for power.

See, a lot of times tinkering in the back yard I like to leave the doors open on the Burb to keep it ventilated in the summer heat. And it draws the battery down with the courtesy lights on.

 

[chengny]

How about this:

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[smurph20]

See, a lot of times tinkering in the back yard I like to leave the doors open on the Burb to keep it ventilated in the summer heat. And it draws the battery down with the courtesy lights on.

LOL did this exact thing today screwing with my riding mower using the jumper cables from the wifes Yukon with the door open. Jumped to wifes truck off with mine but never did fix the damn mower grrr.

 

[89Suburban]

How about this:

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I was looking for the wire and it is not there. That while top left section of the fuse box has no wires at all plugged into it. It must be tied into the horn circuit. I'll have to investigate.