DIY shackle flip

[Originalthor]

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Ok so I came across this picture the other day and I got to thinking cause for me to order and ship a shackle flip is like 600 buck CAD. Crazy expensive.

So what if I left the factory hanger there. Cut the bottom out and weld in a c channel on the top of it and a couple of braces on the top. I always thought the shackle flip moved it up but from this side view there at the same height.

I know its been discussed in some threads and on some other sites but not alot came about it. Or there's hack jobs or just not good pictures of a diy. It is pretty easy for me to do now cause I'm a rolling chassis.

 

[Bextreme04]

It depends. There is a 2.5" version and a 4" version. The pictured one is the 4" version. I think you could be fine doing a thick piece of C-channel and then 3/8" steel plate bracing on the top to keep it from bending up. Make sure they are triangle shaped like the ORD one.

 

[87chevy_com]

1967 - 2014 Chevrolet / GMC Leaf Spring Hangers

Replacement Leaf Spring Hangers for Chevrolet Silverado / GMC Sierra 1500, 2500, 3500 / Blazer / C Series / K Series / Jimmy

www.generalspringkc.com

maybe get a 2wd rear hanger and see if its the same offset as yours...? My 1987 2wd I wanted a 2" drop and after researching pictures, suburbans have a factory "drop" style hanger. Holes needed to be drilled but it was oem and cheap.

 

[nvrenuf]

You wouldn’t be the first person to cut a hole and run the shackle downward. Something to consider is the fact that the shackle will likely hit the bracket before you reach the full range of articulation.

 

[Ricko1966]

I think I'd cut a window in the bottom of my stock mount, stick my hanger up through the bottom,through the window then weld 2 braces one from just forward of the window one behind the window welded to the sides of the stock frame mount.

 

[Originalthor]

You wouldn’t be the first person to cut a hole and run the shackle downward. Something to consider is the fact that the shackle will likely hit the bracket before you reach the full range of articulation.

Articulation is a concern but I only got hills were I live so there isn't going to be to much flexing going on.

It depends. There is a 2.5" version and a 4" version. The pictured one is the 4" version. I think you could be fine doing a thick piece of C-channel and then 3/8" steel plate bracing on the top to keep it from bending up. Make sure they are triangle shaped like the ORD one.

I have 2 inch blocks in right now so I would take them out and I would get a 2 inch lift my springs are a little saggy.
Thats my plan and also welding a cap on the end of the c channel to box it up where the bolt goes through.

1967 - 2014 Chevrolet / GMC Leaf Spring Hangers

Replacement Leaf Spring Hangers for Chevrolet Silverado / GMC Sierra 1500, 2500, 3500 / Blazer / C Series / K Series / Jimmy

www.generalspringkc.com

maybe get a 2wd rear hanger and see if its the same offset as yours...? My 1987 2wd I wanted a 2" drop and after researching pictures, suburbans have a factory "drop" style hanger. Holes needed to be drilled but it was oem and cheap.

I thought about that but the factory one has those 4 rivets plus a angle brace on the backside for support. I get a shot of that tomorrow.

I'll get some more straight on shots tomorrow and maybe cut a piece of cardboard for a example. I can't draw worth a crap and especially on my phone.

 

[Ricko1966]

I think we are all thinking in the same general direction what I was saying without having a picture,cardboard or being able to draw on my phone either. Is I think if you cut a window in the bottom of your factory bracket and drop your shckle down through the window welding a brace on each side of that window just like the ORD braces but spread further apart I think you'd have a very functional mount,cheap and easy. But I think I just realized what your thinking, running a 2 inch long piece of channel open end aimed at the ground with a hole drilled through it with braces running up. If that's what you're thinking that's a good option too. Mock it up in cardboard,I need to see if what I'm picturing is what you're picturing.

 

[Originalthor]

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So here's my idea and try to leave as much of the factory hanger. That boxed in c channel would get welded Over top of the existing spot where the bolt goes through.

I think I could get roughly about 45 degrees or more of shackle movement both ways. Think that's lots or no?

This is a shot of the backside. Its got a pretty beefy brace there which helps support the whole works. Which reminded me to get those plastic things for those gas tank frame protectors lol.

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[Muddybuddy]

I did something very similar 20yrs ago on a previous k5. Should work fine.

 

[Originalthor]

So I did some browsing this morning and found a bunch of pictures. The thought of doing a shackle flip never really crossed my mind but since my suburban body is not on the frame I'm kinda crazy not too.

Here's a shot of someone who has cut the factory hanger. I just don't think its the best option. Its looking like I would only get maybe 35ish degrees of angle movement. And it also looks like the ORD one move the shackle bolt forward a inch or more to center it better.

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I found this interesting one aswell which looks like it also moved the shackle bolt forward. Looks easy enough to make but is it strong?

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Now I didn't realize that there was a 2.5 ord one. It looks like it would be alot easier to build then the 4 inch lift one. And I probably have enough metals laying around to build. I checked out the price of getting that one shipped to my door is still roughly 500 bucks once its converted to Canadian dollars.

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And last but not least I found this one which is a zero lift shackle flip with multiple shackle locations. I don't mind this style cause if I ever buy new leaf springs I'm not rolling the dice on which springs to buy for the front and which ones for the back. My only concern with this zero lift style is that it looks like it would put alot of stress on the frame c channel possibly. I would maybe want to box that section in. I dunno.

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I'm kinda leaning towards the zero lift style cause all my shocks and brake lines are new and I don't really want to replace when I got a pile of other stuff to do. Also if when I do go to say lift the truck with new springs I'm not guessing on which springs to buy for the front and back for height.

 

[Ricko1966]

So I did some browsing this morning and found a bunch of pictures. The thought of doing a shackle flip never really crossed my mind but since my suburban body is not on the frame I'm kinda crazy not too.

Here's a shot of someone who has cut the factory hanger. I just don't think its the best option. Its looking like I would only get maybe 35ish degrees of angle movement. And it also looks like the ORD one move the shackle bolt forward a inch or more to center it better.

You must be registered for see images attach

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I found this interesting one aswell which looks like it also moved the shackle bolt forward. Looks easy enough to make but is it strong?

You must be registered for see images attach

Now I didn't realize that there was a 2.5 ord one. It looks like it would be alot easier to build then the 4 inch lift one. And I probably have enough metals laying around to build. I checked out the price of getting that one shipped to my door is still roughly 500 bucks once its converted to Canadian dollars.

You must be registered for see images attach

And last but not least I found this one which is a zero lift shackle flip with multiple shackle locations. I don't mind this style cause if I ever buy new leaf springs I'm not rolling the dice on which springs to buy for the front and which ones for the back. My only concern with this zero lift style is that it looks like it would put alot of stress on the frame c channel possibly. I would maybe want to box that section in. I dunno.

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I'm kinda leaning towards the zero lift style cause all my shocks and brake lines are new and I don't really want to replace when I got a pile of other stuff to do. Also if when I do go to say lift the truck with new springs I'm not guessing on which springs to buy for the front and back for height.

One more thing leading in the zero lifts favor, if you change your mind later it would give excellent mounting points for 2 triangular brackets to raise the truck or if you just wanted a couple of inches in the future, you could bolt 2x3 rectangular stock to the frame and bolt the zero lifts to the rectangular stock. Those look sure easy to make

 

[bucket]

Another option is using a second pair of spring hangers, as shackle hangers.

 

[Originalthor]

Another option is using a second pair of spring hangers, as shackle hangers.

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Yes something like this. Thought also crossed my mind. Super easy but would have to nail the angle just right when installing. I would think it would be the same as the ord. 1 or so forward.

One more thing leading in the zero lifts favor, if you change your mind later it would give excellent mounting points for 2 triangular brackets to raise the truck or if you just wanted a couple of inches in the future, you could bolt 2x3 rectangular stock to the frame and bolt the zero lifts to the rectangular stock. Those look sure easy to make

Thats a hell of a idea. One would need say a 6x6 or a angle iron 6 by 6 so the top is not welded together for strength. I decided to build a smoker instead of playing on the truck this weekend but ill see what I come up with during the week for some plans.