Distributor Question

[The flying turd]

usually 1100rpm, which is usual warm up rpm for most vehicles...as high as 1800

So thats fast idle speed.

 

[HotRodPC]

usually 1100rpm, which is usual warm up rpm for most vehicles...as high as 1800

You usually don't need higher idle rpms to seat rings. Just driving it and getting the motor to full operating temp will do that. If you have anything cooler than a 180 Tstat in it, like a 160, I'd change it out for break in, Id even consider a 195 if you're running moly rings. They're harder to seat and take a bit longer usually. Getting the motor warm will seat rings moreso than rpms. Warm motor and the rings scrubbing the cylinder walls will get them seated quicker than anything, so avoid the short quick trips up the street to the corner store for awhile. The motor doesn't even get warm in that amount of time and does nothing for it.

 

[Jims86]

You usually don't need higher idle rpms to seat rings. Just driving it and getting the motor to full operating temp will do that. If you have anything cooler than a 180 Tstat in it, like a 160, I'd change it out for break in, Id even consider a 195 if you're running moly rings. They're harder to seat and take a bit longer usually. Getting the motor warm will seat rings moreso than rpms. Warm motor and the rings scrubbing the cylinder walls will get them seated quicker than anything, so avoid the short quick trips up the street to the corner store for awhile. The motor doesn't even get warm in that amount of time and does nothing for it.

Yeah, but remember, we had to break them in on a stand with the special starter....no load, so we bumped th rpm up to compensate.
We could do it with a manual car, with a new clutch though....good ole bump start in 4th. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, we usually had an external electric oil pump plumbed into the block during thes break ins....not good to start a locked motor with no pressure!

 

[HotRodPC]

I never did any of that. Back in the day, just used the cheapest NON detergent SAE 30 weight oil, a drill motor with a big cut off screwdriver down the dizzy shaft, stab the dizzy and fire it up with an oil pressure guage attatched to make sure that was all good. Assembly lube does have a purpose, and does help avoid a dry start up.

 

[Jims86]

I never did any of that. Back in the day, just used the cheapest NON detergent SAE 30 weight oil, a drill motor with a big cut off screwdriver down the dizzy shaft, stab the dizzy and fire it up with an oil pressure guage attatched to make sure that was all good. Assembly lube does have a purpose, and does help avoid a dry start up.

With the way we were doing it, the assmebly lub was there at the first startup, but not so much after that. We wer using a similar weight mineral oil too. Ashless dispursant, like AV oil.

 

[Tyger13us]

Interesting... did you run that engine at high rpm's? to seat the rings and stuff?

yea,, i did,, but dont go full throttle,, easy it up,, at least i do to 5k rpm's than back down,, like HR said,, with the new rings and a good machine shop there seated @ 100 miles,, but i waited till i got 500,, dumped the oil and filter,, and refilled,, then 2 container of stp oil additive,, one would be good for stock oil pan,, mine holds 8 plus the filter,, drive it kinda hard for and other 500 or so,but still no full throttle, then pull a valve cover and adjust the valves to klack,, 0 noise,, and go down the line,, shut it off,, then give um all 1/2 turn down.. dido on the other side...

im @ 2500 miles and its time to re adjust the valves again now that everything is settled and prolly wont have to do it again for the life of the motor......

im running roller rockers,, so i really dont need to like with stamped rockers,,stamped rockers? they wear "IN" so to speak........

 

[Tyger13us]

I never did any of that. Back in the day, just used the cheapest NON detergent SAE 30 weight oil, a drill motor with a big cut off screwdriver down the dizzy shaft, stab the dizzy and fire it up with an oil pressure guage attatched to make sure that was all good. Assembly lube does have a purpose, and does help avoid a dry start up.

well,, that is right to prime it,, but to do it right ya need a dizzy housing for the cam journal/lifter gallery oiling,, with out it it just comes out the feed and dont feed the top end.. thats what the notch/ ringed groove is for at the bottom of the dizzy......

my machinist and i agree,, there isnt any slippery in oil any more,, back in the day,, yea no problem,," that there was real crude oil ",, todays crap has all the slippery removed to make stp and vasaline,,, LOL

 

[HotRodPC]

well,, that is right to prime it,, but to do it right ya need a dizzy housing for the cam journal/lifter gallery oiling,, with out it it just comes out the feed and dont feed the top end.. thats what the notch/ ringed groove is for at the bottom of the dizzy......

my machinist and i agree,, there isnt any slippery in oil any more,, back in the day,, yea no problem,," that there was real crude oil ",, todays crap has all the slippery removed to make stp and vasaline,,, LOL

You can bet, there is slippery added, and it's usually in the added detergents. And quitting the making of parafine based motor oil like back in the day is also a good thing. Old Penzoil was made from that ****. It was like Candle wax. You ever open up an old motor that was run on Penzoil and not regularly changed oil, ohhhhhhhhh my gawwwd. You can dig the sludge out with a spoon and I'm not even kidding.

 

[HotRodPC]

well,, that is right to prime it,, but to do it right ya need a dizzy housing for the cam journal/lifter gallery oiling,, with out it it just comes out the feed and dont feed the top end.. thats what the notch/ ringed groove is for at the bottom of the dizzy......

my machinist and i agree,, there isnt any slippery in oil any more,, back in the day,, yea no problem,," that there was real crude oil ",, todays crap has all the slippery removed to make stp and vasaline,,, LOL

True, but you're still getting oil to the crank bearings and making sure your filter is full so that instant you start cranking, AFTER the dizzy is installed, you're getting oil to the cam too. Piss on the lifters, they can wait a minute, no harm there. It's all the bearing journals you don't want dry.

I also changed oil and filter after 500 miles and called it broke in. A good mild test drive, then it was ready for the track and balls to the wall. Of course if I could hold off a bit longer I would, but NO, I wasn't so disciplined and couldn't wait. I did good to make it 500 miles. And I usually did that in 2 -3 days just to get it over with.

 

[Tyger13us]

True, but you're still getting oil to the crank bearings and making sure your filter is full so that instant you start cranking, AFTER the dizzy is installed, you're getting oil to the cam too. Piss on the lifters, they can wait a minute, no harm there. It's all the bearing journals you don't want dry.

I also changed oil and filter after 500 miles and called it broke in. A good mild test drive, then it was ready for the track and balls to the wall. Of course if I could hold off a bit longer I would, but NO, I wasn't so disciplined and couldn't wait. I did good to make it 500 miles. And I usually did that in 2 -3 days just to get it over with.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA,,, ROTFLMAO!!!!!

yea,, if it was a race motor/street racer correctamundo..........

my last street racer motor i got 200k out of it,,, broken valve springs,, punched rockers,, burned up rocker balls," the groved ones"...

back in the day,, my motor was a 327small journal steel crank in a large journal block bushed and pined .60 over popups,, camel hump slant plug heads,, 3030 duntove cam offenhouser dual plane 360 degree with a cut plum runner with a holley 900 3 barrel,, hooker 1 3/4 long tubes..

2 sp glide,, trans brake,, 4500 stall and 5.13 spool...................

slip times were mid to high 9's... depending on the weather and running on nave gas........

the only thing i couldnt beat was a blown BBC running on alcohol.... but it was damn close.........

i pulled the motor and put it in a 68 chevelle for a custom cruiser sled........

got tired or breaking drive train parts and street/Real drag racing got to exspensive........ plus being wanted by Johny Law.......And an Ole lady and a kid on the way.......

 

[Jims86]

You can bet, there is slippery added, and it's usually in the added detergents. And quitting the making of parafine based motor oil like back in the day is also a good thing. Old Penzoil was made from that ****. It was like Candle wax. You ever open up an old motor that was run on Penzoil and not regularly changed oil, ohhhhhhhhh my gawwwd. You can dig the sludge out with a spoon and I'm not even kidding.

Yes, I have dredged quite a few of those engines.

 

[HotRodPC]

That's one of my all time favorite SBC engines is the Small Journal 327. 62-67 motors. In 68 the 327 went to large journal and cast crank. Actually the same EXACT block as the 350. The 327/350 even shared the same casting #'s for 68 and 69, then in 70, no more 327. Went to some ****** 307. JUNK IMO. Stepchild motor. But yes, ALL small journal motors, the 265, 283 and 327 were FORGED cranks. Those motors loved loved loved RPM. And they'd turn it quick too. And of course you know the story on the 302. YES, for you youngin's, Chevrolet made a 302. Not a quite a streetable motor though.

 

[Jims86]

That's one of my all time favorite SBC engines is the Small Journal 327. 62-67 motors. In 68 the 327 went to large journal and cast crank. Actually the same EXACT block as the 350. The 327/350 even shared the same casting #'s for 68 and 69, then in 70, no more 327. Went to some ****** 307. JUNK IMO. Stepchild motor. But yes, ALL small journal motors, the 265, 283 and 327 were FORGED cranks. Those motors loved loved loved RPM. And they'd turn it quick too. And of course you know the story on the 302. YES, for you youngin's, Chevrolet made a 302. Not a quite a streetable motor though.

Yeah, it was a z28 motor.

 

[HotRodPC]

Yeah, it was a z28 motor.

Yup, a Destroked 327 with a 283 crank to make it 302 and be under the CU IN max, I believe for the Trans AM race series. Ran a Solid 30/30 Duntov Cam and actually put quite a bit more horsepower than advertised. More like 360-400 hp depending on the year. Nothing mild about it, all wild, for back in those days. of the First Generation Camaro.

 

[Jims86]

Yup, a Destroked 327 with a 283 crank to make it 302 and be under the CU IN max, I believe for the Trans AM race series. Ran a Solid 30/30 Duntov Cam and actually put quite a bit more horsepower than advertised. More like 360-400 hp depending on the year. Nothing mild about it, all wild, for back in those days. of the First Generation Camaro.

I think they called it turbo-fire...290hp for insurance reasons.