Distributor bat terminal remote kill switch/

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79K10Step

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Bert
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1979
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I am in the middle of major restoration on my 79k10 stepside and was thinking about kill switch options. Like the Idea of doing it at the distributor. Was wondering if I could do this with a remote relay instead of basic toggle switch. Also looking into the possibility of an ignition clam shell cover. (Hard to find)

Any thoughts appreciated.
 

JimVG

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I just installed the Painless Performance Remote Master Disconnect Kit 30206 on my 1978 K20. I removed the battery and battery support, and mounted the solenoid under the battery support. It cannot be accessed without removing the battery and support. I routed the wires back to the driver’s side of the cab using the factory plastic wiring loom cover. Mounted the switch under the dash in a hidden location. In my case I needed to install longer battery cables, but they needed to be replaced anyway. It worked out very nicely.
 

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Turbo4whl

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One disadvantage putting a kill switch in the distributor battery feed is the engine can still be cranked. With no spark, the carburetor will fill the cylinders with fuel mix, then into the exhaust. When you do fire it off you will have flooded condition as well as a muffler fire/explosion.

Most would choose a starter wire kill switch.

If you choose a battery disconnect solenoid, make sure it is a continuous duty solenoid.
 

79K10Step

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Thanks for the thoughts, I was considering a battery disconnect option but was afraid it was to obvious when looking at the battery. My truck has outside hood latch in the grill. I have seen some options for battery disconnect with key fob relay. The distributor idea came from a thought that truck turns over but wont start and thief may not realize kill switch. (probably dumb idea my part) In addition to problems mentioned by Turbo4whl could run the battery down. Placing the solenoid in an unaccessible place on battery tray a good idea.

I did rewire my whole truck some years back with a painless wiring kit, it does have main starter power supply on the firewall running through a 70amp fuse I could interrupt but breaking main high power voltage line seems a bit risky.

Thanks
 

Grit dog

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I like the idea of something that would make a thief “think” theirs no security system. The ign kill that still lets it crank is good.
My risk is public areas theft not at home where a their may have unlimited time to get it started.
Here’s mine. Fuel pump power to the pump relay. Dimmer switch up under the carpet on a truck that “doesn’t have” a floor mounted dimmer.
Click the button inconspicuously.
Truck will start and run with no fuel pump. For about 40 seconds. Less if you took off and drove it.
Just enough time to strand the truck in the middle of the road close to the scene of the crime.
A. You don’t have to walk far to find it.
B. Cops will actually show up for a stranded vehicle blocking traffic unlike for a theft.
C. Stolen vehicle dies and won’t restart. Stolen vehicle gets abandoned unless the guy is literally dumb enough to stick around and try to get it started, which makes A and B critical. In that order.
A. So you can get there in time to put thief in a world of hurt.
B. So maybe if you’re lucky cop will arrest bloody broken thief and not you for beating him with the (also hidden but easily accessible tire iron).
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Ricko1966

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We've been over this at least 1000 times use the search function there are thousands of good ideas
 

Matt69olds

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For the money, it’s hard to beat this. It will at least make the thief question if it’s really worth the risk.

Put the positive wire of the LED on the orange wire that feeds the dome light. Put the negative wire of the LED on an ignition on power source. With the ignition on, the LED will have power on both wires. With the ignition off, the LED will be powered by the dome lamp circuit, and will find a ground path thru the ignition circuit. Works well.
 

Big Ray

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My favorite. Just not legal in US. Yet....



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