Discussion and Opinions on 83'-87' Builds

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Coop8202

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2024
Posts
1
Reaction score
1
Location
Charleston, WV
First Name
Austin
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Hey guys, looking to buy a 83'-87' Single Cab LWB 4wd 4 speed and do some work to it.

Plans are built 350, 1 ton axles, small lift, exhaust, stacked headlight swap, etc.

Just looking for opinions from others who may have done a similar swaps or recommend certain motors or upgrades. Maybe even post their build.

Open discussion!
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
6,963
Reaction score
12,211
Location
Auburn, Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986, 1977
Truck Model
K20, C10
Engine Size
454, 350
My opinion, why the 1 ton axles? Assuming you’re looking for a 3/4 ton already, are you wheeling it to the point that the front 10bolt will break or loading the payload over the capacity of a sf 14bolt? Otherwise a D60 and 14FF will be of zero net benefit.
Don’t take this the wrong way, but sounds like you’ve just been browsing the web and found some cool words that you don’t understand but think will make a truck cool.
The real question is what do YOU want out of the truck? Otherwise suggestions go from bone stock classic car show winner to mud buggy on 44s and many things in between.
 

TotalyHucked

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2020
Posts
3,650
Reaction score
11,788
Location
Auburn, Georgia
First Name
Zach
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
Sierra 1500
Engine Size
5.3
Yeah, what's the planned usage for the truck? Also as far as the quad lights are concerned, just buy a truck that's already got them.
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,851
Reaction score
5,642
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
A k20 is generally cheaper than a k10 or k30. You'll pay the most for a k30.

I would say if you want a 4 speed manual, I would stay away from 85-87 as those will have hydraulic clutches and parts availability is usually not good, or really expensive. A mechanical clutch will serve you well and there are way more of them and replacement parts.
 
Last edited:

Dmack

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2019
Posts
333
Reaction score
436
Location
Central OR
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
My 83 K20, 4sp, 350, 4" lift on 315/75R16
 

Attachments

  • 20230320_190538.jpg
    20230320_190538.jpg
    112 KB · Views: 17

Rusty Nail

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Posts
10,041
Reaction score
10,133
Location
the other side of the internet
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
350sbc
It costs more than you think.

Centerbolt cylinder heads or nah?
83-87 is no good range.
81,82 83,84,85 are all one thing but 86,87,88, are different trucks.
Mmmkay

That's all too new anyway.
Think in the 70s.
'77 was the last good year- then they changed the frame and it was all downhill from there.
73-77
Mmkay?? :)
Hope this helps!
 
Last edited:

ali_c20

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2016
Posts
1,294
Reaction score
1,846
Location
Austria
First Name
Alexander
Truck Year
1974, 1979
Truck Model
C20, K5
Engine Size
350, 350
Welcome from Austria. Get a solid K20, make all the mechanical stuff work good and do the cosmetics later. The times when our trucks and parts for them were cheap are long gone.
 

496bb

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2023
Posts
60
Reaction score
53
Location
AL
First Name
CL
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
Suburban R20
Engine Size
454
Welcome from Bama!!

I agree, what's the usage? If towing or need HD, I'd rather have a big block than a 350.
 

legopnuematic

Licensed Junk Dealer
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2016
Posts
2,485
Reaction score
6,408
Location
MO
First Name
Spencer
Truck Year
1971, 1̶9̶7̶4, 1976, 1979,1̶9̶8̶5, 2002
Truck Model
Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
Engine Size
225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
Welcome from Missouri.
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
6,963
Reaction score
12,211
Location
Auburn, Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986, 1977
Truck Model
K20, C10
Engine Size
454, 350
It costs more than you think.

Centerbolt cylinder heads or nah?
83-87 is no good range.
81,82 83,84,85 are all one thing but 86,87,88, are different trucks.
Mmmkay

That's all too new anyway.
Think in the 70s.
'77 was the last good year- then they changed the frame and it was all downhill from there.
73-77
Mmkay?? :)
Hope this helps!
I know the OP hasn’t returned but maybe you could explain your opinion about some of these things you say are no good.
Center bolt valve covers? Lol. If Having or not having those is a reason to not buy a truck, that makes about zero sense. That’s pickin fly sht out of pepper.
83-87 no good? Can’t even begin to understand what you’re referring to there.
Different frame after 77 no good? Same as above
Combining my recent few years owning and comparing similar condition 70s and 80s models, there’s precious little different between the 2 in the grand scheme. Appearance is the biggest difference for the most part. And that’s just preference not a material difference in performance, reliability or technology.
From the 80s and 90s when I looked after a fleet of work trucks some of which were 70s square and others 80s, the only marked difference I recall was the 80s models were at the age and miles where the “new emissions crap” was part of the required repairs or getting tossed in the garbage, lol. That and the “new” TBI engines were a dream compared to carbs and reliable. But now that is all old hardware and subject to needing work and slightly more complicated than a carb.

IMO, 90% of finding a “good” Squarebody or any old car or truck is the condition it is in. Especially the tough or costly or frustrating stuff to repair or restore. Like in-tact factory wiring that isn’t mouse chewed, rotted out from 20 years of winter salt and brine or the product of someone who loved scotch locks and numerous electrical “modifications.”
Irregardless of what may or may not have been a little quirk either way back when the vehicles were relevant. The other 10% is, does it have what YOU want that is of value to YOU. IE being running/driving may be important to one person, but another has a fresh 454 sitting on a stand and could care less whether it has a running greasy 350 under the hood or not. Or you have a couple cherry doors in your junk pile so caved in doors are not a detriment or cost to you.

And as always JMO.
Cheers!
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,131
Posts
949,959
Members
36,232
Latest member
dljohnson55
Top