Dash/radio lose power on ignition wires

[Ifyasquintitsmint]

Starter just clicked? Bad solenoid. Just remove it, take it apart and rotate the input lug 180 degrees. Put it all back together and viola!

Is it that easy?

 

[Ifyasquintitsmint]

Could be, and probably is a separate gremlin that just decided to show it's ugly little head but that wouldn't have anything to do with your electrical issue. It was ok before you changed the switch, back track and make sure you didn't screw something up. You may have had a solenoid problem before you changed the switch the first time (intermittent starter operation?). Then you didn't install the switch adjusted quite right. SLOW DOWN

Starter was good prior to today. Never had an issue starting my truck, one turn and it was going.

I’m just getting and Shooting out ideas. I’m happy to get the volt meter out and test things.

I’ll go over everything again tomorrow and verify.

 

[Bessie]

Good luck . As far as the voltage readings being low- if you're using a digital multi-meter and it has automatic range , it will show a fluctuating reading in mv with an open circuit unless it's a rather high quality meter. If you're using old school meter movement (with a needle) it will show infinity with an open circuit. Showing low voltage either way is a bad connection. Another thing you want to ck is the light gauge positive wire on the battery cable.

 

[Bessie]

Is it that easy?

Yes it is if it's the contact

 

[Snoots]

Is it that easy?

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When you take it apart, simply rotate that top bolt 180 degrees. Once you get it taken apart you'll see what I'm talking about.

 

[Ifyasquintitsmint]

Tested my starter, works fine.

I tested the firewall, has 12v, then I tested the wires at the neutral safety switch, and had no power at any time. Went up to the ignition switch, pulled it off and tested the wires. I had no power on any of the metal tabs.

Currently looking at a wiring diagram to figure out which wires are 12v all the time and going to follow those to figure out why.
Looks like 3Red2 are the wires I need to figure out. They seem to just disappear off the 1st and 2nd pages of the diagrams.

looks like these are the main points of power for most of the system. So I’m losing power somewhere between the firewall and the ignition switch?

It’s gotta be the junction block on the firewall right? Or a broken wire between post and ignition switch (less likely).


The factory wiring diagrams are some of the worst I’ve ever seen.

 

[Snoots]

GM wiring diagrams leave MUCH to be desired.
Check for voltage at the distribution block on the firewall and go from there.
Alternator feeds to that and from there it feeds all else.

 

[Ifyasquintitsmint]

Okay, so after charging up my battery I’ve got no power at the firewall.

If I jump the battery directly to the posts on the firewall and try to start the car I can hear what i think is the starter solenoid. Starter doesn’t attempt to turn.

Since this is an LS swap and I didn’t do the wiring (which is making this oh so fun) I’m currently trying to figure out where the starter feeds to and why I’m losing power at the posts on the firewall.

Is there any issue with running a power wire from the battery to the posts on the firewall? Seems like there is an issue with something not feeding power to the posts which doesnt relate to my truck not starting but will definitely be an issue.

I'm going to clean up my grounds just to cover my bases.

EDIT: Replacing a fusible link from starter to firewall.

 

[Randy and Easton]

I’m sure @RustyPile will be along shortly to help, he is a great at this. We ran a 10 gauge battery to post on firewall to power truck and removed the wire from starter to firewall. Much simpler set up now.

Randy and Easton

 

[Ifyasquintitsmint]

Truck started after replacing the fusible link. Now to figure out why it blew.

Also now to figure out why I lost my dash/radio a few days before. Always something.

 

[Ifyasquintitsmint]

So everything is back to working normal (Coolant is now pegged for some reason which requires further delving), but why tf does a fusible link cause all these issues? Is the "slow burn" aspect of it allow power through for a period of time while the wire burns?

Can I replace a fusible link with an inline fuse that is downsized so it would blow before anything important is ruined? Having now replaced the fusible links twice I'm getting annoyed with them vs a regular fuse.

 

[Snoots]

Now you're going to have to physically trace ALL wires (starting under the hood) for any shorts to ground.
Look for pinched wires and such. Especially look behind the engine. Check EVERYTHING.

 

[Randy and Easton]

You can’t replace fusible link with inline fuse! Two different animals ! Fusible link is slow burn, more forgiving than a fuse and can handle a fast surge better than a fuse.

Beside, if you do it you will get yelled at by guys a whole lot smarter on here! That’s how we learned..I don’t have to be told twice…..

Randy and Easton