Dash cluster problems

[Vbb199]

This sounds just like a different pinout

Different pinout possibly

Try the technical threads with electrical diagrams and verify that what's pinned on the cluster is for indeed a 73 (or 75)

 

[Jalopy]

Ok we final got it fix my dad helped me figure out the volt meter and the reason the light was on was because of a bad bulb

 

[rich weyand]

You do have the ground strap from the passenger-side cylinder head to the firewall installed, right?

 

[ak4life]

If it has a voltmeter it’s not a ‘75 cluster. However, it could have been modified.
The ammeter cluster connects to two wires under the hood to get an amp reading, but it seldom works right with old wiring. It’s also common to have the fuses in those two wires (two barrel fuse holders under the hood) blow.

Do both clusters have a mechanical oil pressure gauge, with a line running through the firewall to the engine?

Did you ground the new cluster to the post on the top of the emergency brake mechanism? Or where did you ground it?

this brings me to a question for you.....does the i/p need to be grounded to E- brake pedal bracket ? because i didnt reinstall my E-brake when putting my project back to gether (disc brake conversion) so i grounded i/p to grounding tree right below where the bracket would be....and now i dont have ign. it will get power but wont crank starter ......idk im lost on how i just lost crank power after swapping i/p from 81 to 89 and yes i redid pinout to match newer cluster.....any ideas ? thank you for any info....

 

[75gmck25]

It just needs to be grounded, and a grounding block up under the dash is what GM used on later models that had more ground wires. You do not have to use the emergency brake pedal as a ground point, but you definitely do need to ground the cluster.

Your cranking issue sounds more like a bad a neutral safety switch. If working correctly it only allows cranking in Park and Neutral. It’s easy to bypass the switch with a short jumper wire into the plug if you are troubleshooting. IIRC the wire color is purple.

 

[ak4life]

It just needs to be grounded, and a grounding block up under the dash is what GM used on later models that had more ground wires. You do not have to use the emergency brake pedal as a ground point, but you definitely do need to ground the cluster.

Your cranking issue sounds more like a bad a neutral safety switch. If working correctly it only allows cranking in Park and Neutral. It’s easy to bypass the switch with a short jumper wire into the plug if you are troubleshooting. IIRC the wire color is purple.

Thank you for the info, that will eliminate some confusion with this, i also thought it was the nss but ive cleaned the original by taking it apart and also bought another one and still have issues. Im wondering if somehow the shifter/nss/mechanism somehow are unaligned due to no shift linkage to the trans at this moment....something inside column that must all be in a sychronized spot maybe.....cause i have moved shifter up and down, and adjusted nss back and forth to even get reverse lights and nothing....ive also replaced actual ignition cylinder and attempted to adjust ignition switch with column dropped.....so many things could have happened all at a different time, its like im chasing my tail.

 

[75gmck25]

One other possibility is the ignition switch rack and/or rod.
- The electrical part of the ignition switch is mounted low on the column just behind the dash.
- on the back of the physical ignition switch/key is a toothed rack. When you turn the switch it turns the rack and pulls a rod that runs down the column.
- the lower end of the rod is what moves the electrical part of fhe ignition switch and makes the connections.

The ignition rack may be broken, or the rod out of adjustment, which means the physical ignition switch position does not match with the electrical part.
GM ignition switch rack is a standard part and is easy to find. However, replacing it is a PIA that requires quite a bit of column disassembly.