Dakota Digital RTX gauge cluster

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Bloodhound1981

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2016
Posts
225
Reaction score
494
Location
MA
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
C-10
Engine Size
5.7
I figured since you're looking at all the Dakota digital threads I would throw these up. The wire ferrules are game changers, perfect for these applications.

I've got almost 800 hours on my DD's haven't had a single issue. The lcd displays need warm up in heavy cold, but that's really pretty much it.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
I stole that idea from you for this. Worked out great.
 

Silver Square

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2024
Posts
78
Reaction score
57
Location
Fayetteville, GA
First Name
Jason
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
Sierra Grande 15
Engine Size
350
Squares are very easy to wire, other than some of the backwards antiquated crap they do. Like using the "same circuits" or bridging circuits for multiple different outputs. New vehicles usually all have separate circuits and wiring for everything. The gauges will clean up a lot of the mess under there by themselves.

But it's easy with a couple diagrams and figuring out those quirks. Starting from scratch will be a task, but that's a glorious thing to be able to route everything perfectly and neatly and finalize everything correctly. Nothing worse than fighting and searching through a rats nest harness, that has had 50 years of hackery. As well as making your own alterations. Mine isn't terrible but I still cringe looking at it, but I have some ocd issues lol.

The Dakota manual is fantastic, don't throw it out after either. Has setup and calibration info. Didn't have a single install or operation problem. I've always been impressed with the painless products and they've never done me wrong.

That cluster has been one of the best upgrades. Just knowing I have precise instrumentation, not always having that thought in the back of your head "is that gauge actually reading correct??" is a game changer for a daily.
Yeah, that's the main reason I'm doing it all. Peace of mind. My truck isn't a daily, and it's in really good shape. Amazing shape, actually. But It's almost 50 years old lol. Who knows how much longer you'll be able to get glass fuses. I'm OCD too when it comes to wiring. I'll spend 2 hours running a single wire to get it perfect lol.

I don't like working on cars, I like driving them. So I'm going to replace or restore everything that could potentially give me trouble in the future so I can get another 50 years of enjoyment out of it.

The Painless harness does seem to be a good quality piece. I've heard some people say that the fuse block doesn't fit correctly though. My truck is a '77, so it has glass fuses. The painless kit uses modern blade fuses. Do you have any feedback on the fitment there?

I got the kit specific to these trucks, not the generic one. I got the headlight harness too, and I got all the proper tools that the manual says I'll need. I already have a good stripper and standard crimper, so I got their rollover crimper they sell on the website, as well as the double and single crimper that American Autowire sells. Did you need any additional crimpers or tools to get the job done? Thanks for all your help!
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,913
Reaction score
5,764
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
Yeah, that's the main reason I'm doing it all. Peace of mind. My truck isn't a daily, and it's in really good shape. Amazing shape, actually. But It's almost 50 years old lol. Who knows how much longer you'll be able to get glass fuses. I'm OCD too when it comes to wiring. I'll spend 2 hours running a single wire to get it perfect lol.

I don't like working on cars, I like driving them. So I'm going to replace or restore everything that could potentially give me trouble in the future so I can get another 50 years of enjoyment out of it.

The Painless harness does seem to be a good quality piece. I've heard some people say that the fuse block doesn't fit correctly though. My truck is a '77, so it has glass fuses. The painless kit uses modern blade fuses. Do you have any feedback on the fitment there?

I got the kit specific to these trucks, not the generic one. I got the headlight harness too, and I got all the proper tools that the manual says I'll need. I already have a good stripper and standard crimper, so I got their rollover crimper they sell on the website, as well as the double and single crimper that American Autowire sells. Did you need any additional crimpers or tools to get the job done? Thanks for all your help!
Don't be so quick to change everything. A lot of the new stuff we get is just pure junk, can't even get a headlight switch to last with a headlight relay kit, had a bad blower motor relay out of the box, bad ignition module. As well as fixing EVERYTHING isn't time or cost effective, especially when you like driving them instead of working on em.

Replace what needs replaced when it needs it. The wiring and a good bit of electrical components? Sure. But replacing things like the heater controls, the hvac system, door jamb switches, every interior piece, steering columns, shift knobs and levers and all that jaz doesn't matter till the end. The nickels and dimes do really add up.

If the truck has all lights, runs drives and stops good, wipers, decent interior(seat mostly) working hvac and electrical and is water tight, you don't need much else other than a radio for a very nice safe drive.

I'm rambling now. I can't speak on any extra tools, seems what you have will do just fine. Especially with the options. I have not done a full harness yet. BUT!

I would recommend a terminal depinning set, nothing fancy just a good set. That will be a tool you'll be happy not to have to use, but if you need them you're gonna be really mad if you don't have them lol. Don't go slamming picks and screw drivers in plastic connectors as a supplement either! Although most connectors can be depinned with a small pick.
 

CalSgt

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2021
Posts
1,750
Reaction score
3,982
Location
CA
First Name
Casey
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
Chevy K-10 Custom Deluxe
Engine Size
350
I dug through my pictures, my RTX’s are the same. Not noticeable once the bezel is on

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
 

CalSgt

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2021
Posts
1,750
Reaction score
3,982
Location
CA
First Name
Casey
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
Chevy K-10 Custom Deluxe
Engine Size
350
I would recommend a terminal depinning set, nothing fancy just a good set. That will be a tool you'll be happy not to have to use, but if you need them you're gonna be really mad if you don't have them lol. Don't go slamming picks and screw drivers in plastic connectors as a supplement either! Although most connectors can be depinned with a small pick.
I agree with @PrairieDrifter on the quality of aftermarket vs stock wiring and components. The stock stuff is rather high quality

I had to make a bunch of de-pinning tools, heavy and thin gauge gas welding rod ground to different shapes did most everything, a few needed super thin rigid wire and lots of patience.

If I start another project I will probably buy one of the tool sets
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,913
Reaction score
5,764
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
The ferrules. Did you make that mount? It's way nicer then what I made, I mounted the brain in the same spot.
Ah hell yeah! Some YouTuber showed me them one day lol.

Also yeah I made that mount, just some 1/8 inch plate with 1 bend. Went to the dash bolt and nutserted an open hole next it. Figured that was the best/safest spot. I really like how it turned out, kept the mess down significantly.
 

Silver Square

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2024
Posts
78
Reaction score
57
Location
Fayetteville, GA
First Name
Jason
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
Sierra Grande 15
Engine Size
350
Don't be so quick to change everything. A lot of the new stuff we get is just pure junk, can't even get a headlight switch to last with a headlight relay kit, had a bad blower motor relay out of the box, bad ignition module. As well as fixing EVERYTHING isn't time or cost effective, especially when you like driving them instead of working on em.

Replace what needs replaced when it needs it. The wiring and a good bit of electrical components? Sure. But replacing things like the heater controls, the hvac system, door jamb switches, every interior piece, steering columns, shift knobs and levers and all that jaz doesn't matter till the end. The nickels and dimes do really add up.

If the truck has all lights, runs drives and stops good, wipers, decent interior(seat mostly) working hvac and electrical and is water tight, you don't need much else other than a radio for a very nice safe drive.

I'm rambling now. I can't speak on any extra tools, seems what you have will do just fine. Especially with the options. I have not done a full harness yet. BUT!

I would recommend a terminal depinning set, nothing fancy just a good set. That will be a tool you'll be happy not to have to use, but if you need them you're gonna be really mad if you don't have them lol. Don't go slamming picks and screw drivers in plastic connectors as a supplement either! Although most connectors can be depinned with a small pick.
You are right, everything made today is chinese junk. I've been buying OEM and NOS parts for the truck whenever possible. USA made stuff for most of the rest. I got the Squarebody Syndicate shortened steering column, made in USA by Ididit. Solid, all metal quality piece. These US made gauges, US made wiring harness, my power window and lock conversions are made in USA too, using NOS door switches. And I found all of the stuff I need for the '78+ intermittent wipers NOS on eBay too, even the super rare pulse delay module. I got 2 of those NOS, just in case. Figure they aren't getting any easier to come by lol. The rest of the stuff I'm replacing is steering and suspension. My US made BDS lift will address most of that. The rest is being overhauled with the best available replacements, NOS wherever I can find it. My interior all came from USA1, which is all the best stuff available, and some of it is even made in USA. All new seals from Precision, which look and feel like some top notch stuff and are reputed to be excellent quality and the best available for these trucks. Had my seat restored by a local guy. Got my restored OEM seatbelts from Tina King on facebook. If it's possible to rebuild an original component that I can't find NOS, I'm going that route. Any original parts that are still working fine and in good shape will be retained or refurbished.

I'll see if I can find a terminal depinning set. That's a good idea. I believe that some of the terminal connectors need to be repinned depending on the year of the truck for the painless harness. Thanks!
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,913
Reaction score
5,764
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
You are right, everything made today is chinese junk. I've been buying OEM and NOS parts for the truck whenever possible. USA made stuff for most of the rest. I got the Squarebody Syndicate shortened steering column, made in USA by Ididit. Solid, all metal quality piece. These US made gauges, US made wiring harness, my power window and lock conversions are made in USA too, using NOS door switches. And I found all of the stuff I need for the '78+ intermittent wipers NOS on eBay too, even the super rare pulse delay module. I got 2 of those NOS, just in case. Figure they aren't getting any easier to come by lol. The rest of the stuff I'm replacing is steering and suspension. My US made BDS lift will address most of that. The rest is being overhauled with the best available replacements, NOS wherever I can find it. My interior all came from USA1, which is all the best stuff available, and some of it is even made in USA. All new seals from Precision, which look and feel like some top notch stuff and are reputed to be excellent quality and the best available for these trucks. Had my seat restored by a local guy. Got my restored OEM seatbelts from Tina King on facebook. If it's possible to rebuild an original component that I can't find NOS, I'm going that route. Any original parts that are still working fine and in good shape will be retained or refurbished.

I'll see if I can find a terminal depinning set. That's a good idea. I believe that some of the terminal connectors need to be repinned depending on the year of the truck for the painless harness. Thanks!
No problem.

A couple good wire diagrams and quality wire loom and you're on track to a real nice truck.

One random suggestion. Especially while you're in there wiring. If needing windshield washer pump repair, just upgrade to the 85 style wiper motor AND the washer tank and pump. Or at the least if your wiper motor is just fine, just do the tank and pump. Wiring should be the same even in the 70's(for the washer pump) not the connector though.
 

Silver Square

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2024
Posts
78
Reaction score
57
Location
Fayetteville, GA
First Name
Jason
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
Sierra Grande 15
Engine Size
350
No problem.

A couple good wire diagrams and quality wire loom and you're on track to a real nice truck.

One random suggestion. Especially while you're in there wiring. If needing windshield washer pump repair, just upgrade to the 85 style wiper motor AND the washer tank and pump. Or at the least if your wiper motor is just fine, just do the tank and pump. Wiring should be the same even in the 70's(for the washer pump) not the connector though.
Yeah, I had considered that too. Did a bunch of research on it a while back, figuring out what parts I'd need to make it all work with the old style dash switch. Kinda forgot all about it over the last few months though lol.
 

ChuckN

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2022
Posts
1,408
Reaction score
4,432
Location
Bellinham, WA
First Name
Chad
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
Don't be so quick to change everything. A lot of the new stuff we get is just pure junk, can't even get a headlight switch to last with a headlight relay kit, had a bad blower motor relay out of the box, bad ignition module. As well as fixing EVERYTHING isn't time or cost effective, especially when you like driving them instead of working on em.

Replace what needs replaced when it needs it. The wiring and a good bit of electrical components? Sure. But replacing things like the heater controls, the hvac system, door jamb switches, every interior piece, steering columns, shift knobs and levers and all that jaz doesn't matter till the end. The nickels and dimes do really add up.

If the truck has all lights, runs drives and stops good, wipers, decent interior(seat mostly) working hvac and electrical and is water tight, you don't need much else other than a radio for a very nice safe drive.

I'm rambling now. I can't speak on any extra tools, seems what you have will do just fine. Especially with the options. I have not done a full harness yet. BUT!

I would recommend a terminal depinning set, nothing fancy just a good set. That will be a tool you'll be happy not to have to use, but if you need them you're gonna be really mad if you don't have them lol. Don't go slamming picks and screw drivers in plastic connectors as a supplement either! Although most connectors can be depinned with a small pick.
Sage advice right there. I’ll have to remember that every time I get a case of the “while I’m at it”.
 

PrairieDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Posts
3,913
Reaction score
5,764
Location
North Dakota
First Name
Mason
Truck Year
84,79,77,76,70,48
Truck Model
Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
Engine Size
350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
Sage advice right there. I’ll have to remember that every time I get a case of the “while I’m at it”.
It took me awhile to finally learn the lesson. I was also a while I'm at it person. But on the contrary that is a good rule for some things and situations.

Unless you are for certain you're getting a quality replacement or upgrade, just run it. I've put over 40,000 miles on a power steering pump and transmission I thought would be junk. Let alone the virgin small block 350 that's got a good ring ridge(that sat around for years between bouncing to new homes) They're still trucking, not 100% im sure, but plenty healthy enough for a daily!
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,498
Posts
959,295
Members
36,927
Latest member
lovoy22
Top