CS130 Alt Wiring on 85 c10

[chevyninja350]

I have a 1985 Chevy c10 350 with Vortec heads and accessories. I am currently running a CS130 Alternator not CS130D.

I want to know which of the 4 wires on the CS130 Alternator (PLFS) to use with the stock voltmeter gauge (Brown wire from bulkhead). I need to know which wires need ignition or battery voltage and I also need to know which wire gets a Resistor and wether or not I need to run one.

I am not running an idiot/dummy light for the alternator.

The pinout is PLFS.

 

[AuroraGirl]

AD230 instead youll thank yourself

 

[AuroraGirl]

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the first pic is for a ad or a cs130di think, but same concepts apply


Only one wire is truly needed to be run TO the alternator while there is, in good practice, two you want to run to that connector, then a charge cable off the stud. The other "good practice" one is the S terminal which is sense. you put this on your distribution block or battery positive for a more accurate charge and operation. also P is, if I recall, a Tachometer signal, while L is unused for anything you would have on your truck to my understanding

The diagram with "S" being wired to the stud is actually done internally, you dont need to wire that on your connector. when you run a wire to a battery for example it will use that and not the internal reading

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This is the AD2__ breakdown, the AD230 would fit in the same spot as CS130 and its just better.

 

[AuroraGirl]

your not running a dummy light means you need a 50ohm resistor on the wire that has power when ignition on and run

 

[nvrenuf]

@chevyninja350 I just rewired my CS130 using this pigtail and diagram. I cut the connector off of the end and wired it per the diagram but I believe your alternator connector will plug right in to this.

I ordered the pigtail from O’Reillys.

 

[chevyninja350]

Thanks for your replies. Which wire do I run my Gauge off of. Is it the ignition wire? And do I need a resistor in line on that?

 

[chevyninja350]

So I just went out to the truck and tested the Brown wire. With the key on the wire gets 12 volts. Key off it gets nothing. The voltage gauge works with the brown wire unplugged as well as plugged in. On the old 2 pin alternators that came on the truck (GM SI alternators. SI10,SI12 etc.) The Brown wire acted as an Ignition source for the alternator ("Excite wire") where as the other pin went to Battery positive via Junction block ("sense wire").

I had Initially thought that The Brown wire was what gave the gauge its reading So I was confused about adding a resistor because I thought it would affect the gauge's reading by restricting it to 5 volts.

So for my setup (PLFS)
P not used.
L to BRN IGN wire with Resistor or 194 bulb.
F Not used.
S to battery or large post on alternator back

From my understanding the excite wire is to tell the Voltage regulator to turn on and the sense wire is to tell the alternator to start charging or to stop charging when battery is full.

Please let know if something doesn't sound right with my info or setup.

Can anyone tell me what pin F (Field) if for?

Photo source Haynes manual 1967 through 1987.

 

[nvrenuf]

I just have an ignition hot wire from my fuse box going to my volt gauge. My understanding is the gauge just needs to “feel” the running voltage from any ignition source, not necessarily the alternator itself.

 

[AuroraGirl]

So I just went out to the truck and tested the Brown wire. With the key on the wire gets 12 volts. Key off it gets nothing. The voltage gauge works with the brown wire unplugged as well as plugged in. On the old 2 pin alternators that came on the truck (GM SI alternators. SI10,SI12 etc.) The Brown wire acted as an Ignition source for the alternator ("Excite wire") where as the other pin went to Battery positive via Junction block ("sense wire").

I had Initially thought that The Brown wire was what gave the gauge its reading So I was confused about adding a resistor because I thought it would affect the gauge's reading by restricting it to 5 volts.

So for my setup (PLFS)
P not used.
L to BRN IGN wire with Resistor or 194 bulb.
F Not used.
S to battery or large post on alternator back

From my understanding the excite wire is to tell the Voltage regulator to turn on and the sense wire is to tell the alternator to start charging or to stop charging when battery is full.

Please let know if something doesn't sound right with my info or setup.

Can anyone tell me what pin F (Field) if for?

Photo source Haynes manual 1967 through 1987.

I mean, i did explain in my reply that you would not gain anything wiring the S to alternator stud. its internally already doing that. the only time I would say this would have a valid application is if you have more than one charge wire off one alternatorand you put the sense wire past the two+ lugs for the charging. Field is for computer controls and monitors. very basic on-off controls to help starting, cut off at WOT, etc beyond the already built in smart abilities of a CS or AD alternator that would require a GM PCM which can utilize those functions.

 

[AuroraGirl]

to be clear if you get a cs130d/ad2__ connector (metripack oval one with 4 wires) which can be bought as a "SI to AD alternator conversion connector" much similar to the one posted by @nvrenuf and install an AD230 in the same exact ears, same pulley (could swap it over if yours is the right one and the bought one was different) but it has two fans, not one, they are both inside the case instead of external like a cs130, they are the same rating, stock, can be bought new rebuilt used etc, are just better, and also have less overheat tendancies especially when demanded for load or RPM speed. It just has more features, was upgraded technology, and had built in integration for more PCM controls(not relevant to you), and last longer and dont cost much more if much more at all.

The output thing is either the same or the idle output is better for given rpm and then the overall output would be the same, so the output curve is not as much 1 to 10 but 4 to 10 in terms of low end output to high end output. if you build an ad230 with an ad244 rectifier bridge you also would overbuild a alternator without changing its output but it would be more reliable and last longer especially before failure from just being used.

im 89% sure this is a CS130 from my first car

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then this is an ad230 from a 3.8l v6 so the mounting is different, but truck AD230s are sold with the same mounting ears as CS130.

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If I had a truck one I would show you but I will use a google pics photo:

wait I just remembered your truck probably has ears on the CS130 because the serpentine brackets hold it different than the v belt since you dont tension the belt with it.:

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this is what your CS130 probably looks like or similar too

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this would be the ad230.

Now if I was just completely incorrect about how your ears on your alts look or whatever then i will just be quiet now LOL

 

[Raider L]

@AuroraGirl,

Where is the 2nd fan inside that AD230 alt.? The one on the outside but where is there enough room inside for a second fan?

 

[AuroraGirl]

@AuroraGirl,

Where is the 2nd fan inside that AD230 alt.? The one on the outside but where is there enough room inside for a second fan?

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both the case parts have the grilles, its meant to be a flow-through idea. the cs130 couldnt get much air to the rear esp at idle

 

[ak4life]

your not running a dummy light means you need a 50ohm resistor on the wire that has power when ignition on and run

Ok so like every other semi knowledgable chevy person here, i am.stumped with the resistor and why its necesaary, let me give you my scenario first and hopefully you can shed light for me and others, so i have an 81 single cab longbed 4x4 (chevy k10) with 84 3/4 ton drive train, blueprint 383 stroker, with 89 column, front core and grille. Im only detailing some of the truck as it may be pertenant. So i ripped out all the wiring and then purchased an aaw full harness for $940 out the door, didnt open it for 2 years as i was building truck.....well worst money i have ever spent in my opinion (just a classic update kit, nothing to custom) well let me stop myself right there because itll go way off topic and thats not what im wasting your time for, i apologize. My question is i have a hi torque starter with only 2 lugs, a aftermarket 220v altenator cs130, hei distributor and 1989 column and 89 gauge cluster.....im having so many "idk" moments and aaw customer service SUCKS, but if my altenator has internal regulator and im not using an idiot light, do i need the resistor ? Why wouldnt the aaw know this instead of wiring without ? My reason for asking is after i wired it, i ran it. Then out of nowhere it wont start from the ignition in column but will start with jumper to starter and battery.....did i blow something out ? And yes ive checked all fuses multiple times, ignition switch bar that runs down to switch is moving up and down, plugs for harness are in, its really odd that it wont start by ignition and im just cant help but think its because there is no resistor.....sorry for the saga (and that just my first question..lol)
I have much more if you are willing to listen
.....lol.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Ok so like every other semi knowledgable chevy person here, i am.stumped with the resistor and why its necesaary, let me give you my scenario first and hopefully you can shed light for me and others, so i have an 81 single cab longbed 4x4 (chevy k10) with 84 3/4 ton drive train, blueprint 383 stroker, with 89 column, front core and grille. Im only detailing some of the truck as it may be pertenant. So i ripped out all the wiring and then purchased an aaw full harness for $940 out the door, didnt open it for 2 years as i was building truck.....well worst money i have ever spent in my opinion (just a classic update kit, nothing to custom) well let me stop myself right there because itll go way off topic and thats not what im wasting your time for, i apologize. My question is i have a hi torque starter with only 2 lugs, a aftermarket 220v altenator cs130, hei distributor and 1989 column and 89 gauge cluster.....im having so many "idk" moments and aaw customer service SUCKS, but if my altenator has internal regulator and im not using an idiot light, do i need the resistor ? Why wouldnt the aaw know this instead of wiring without ? My reason for asking is after i wired it, i ran it. Then out of nowhere it wont start from the ignition in column but will start with jumper to starter and battery.....did i blow something out ? And yes ive checked all fuses multiple times, ignition switch bar that runs down to switch is moving up and down, plugs for harness are in, its really odd that it wont start by ignition and im just cant help but think its because there is no resistor.....sorry for the saga (and that just my first question..lol)
I have much more if you are willing to listen
.....lol.

Is this alternator meant to be used for welding? I dont know why you want 220v on your trucks system. I really hope the charge wire isnt wired to your distribution block or battery in anyway LOL
The alternator is probably not made to be triggered to start outputting based on how a normal alt would, since you wouldnt want a 220v alternator I presume except on demand, which i am not sure what the need is then lol!

I am worreid you fried something yes

 

[ak4life]

Is this alternator meant to be used for welding? I dont know why you want 220v on your trucks system. I really hope the charge wire isnt wired to your distribution block or battery in anyway LOL
The alternator is probably not made to be triggered to start outputting based on how a normal alt would, since you wouldnt want a 220v alternator I presume except on demand, which i am not sure what the need is then lol!

I am worreid you fried something yes

Ok so i appreciate the feedback and was hoping you can elaborate, dc electrical is not my strong suit, i only thought by getting the 220 size altenator i would not have to worry about any light dimming or insufficient power if im running light bars winch stereo or all accessories at the same time, so i guess im a little worried now....also i have a 0 gauge wire from battery to starter positive side of battery, and did have 8 gauge wire from altenator battery post + to the battery post positive but have since removed from battery and connected to starter battery post +, not sure which way is best because of so many contradictions........this is a reman 220 cs130 altenator, hi torque starter, average size battery, all new harness from aaw ( will never purchase from them again ) and new blueprint 383 motor and serpentine belt system....i know some of that does not matter but was trying to paint a picture...thank you for any advice on how it should be wired correctly and please be thorough and specific as i am seriously overwhelmed with the whole wiring harness that i wasted $950 for....imho a fricking joke of a kit for the price.....ill stop there in my opinions of the wire kit.. thank you aurora girl..also can you explain your comment on how i could fry something by using a higher amp altenator .....thank you