Crazy question

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My78truck

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Okay, for what ever reason, the front bed panel has rusted at the roll. Anyone else seen this happen? Anyway, I have blown out all the loose rust, thoroughly coated the interior areas with rust converter, then encapsulator. I have filled the minor holes with body fill. But I have an area that has some larger holes that I would just be pushing lots, and lots and LOTS of body fill into.

Now for my crazy question........could I use expanding foam as a backing for the body fill? I know it is waterproof. Are there any cons to doing this?

I know that the CORRECT thing to do would probably be buy a whole new front bed panel. I am trying to do the best I can. I am can just hear some of the hard core body people out there either laughing their butts off or cringing at this question. Please be kind, I am trying to do the best I can within my means.

And if you do not mind, can someone inform me how the water gets in there to rust this out and how to stop it. HEY!!!! What about sealing up the ends with the foam!!!!! :laughing1:

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45tt

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I think you sort of answered your own question. You know deep down what you need to do to fix it the right way. I think if you fixed it the other way, you wouldn’t like the results and would regret it.
 

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I’d be immensely tempted to cut it out. Hammer a curve into a piece of 18 GA and weld it in. Get it close as you can THEN arias some body filler to round it out.
might be just as easy to get the shape right with the weld patch.
 

My78truck

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Ok, thanks. I will investigate the welding.

So has anyone seen this happen before? How do I keep it from happening again?
 

gotyourgoat

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I’d be immensely tempted to cut it out. Hammer a curve into a piece of 18 GA and weld it in. Get it close as you can THEN arias some body filler to round it out.
might be just as easy to get the shape right with the weld patch.
This would be the correct answer I guess. However I believe the op is is a situation like myself where they do not have a welder and don't have a buddy that would weld some stuff up for a couple brews.

Hence you're left with non metallurgy fixes. I'd stay away from the foam though. Never seems to be a fix for more that a short while and then makes things worse when things eventually go bad again. And they will. Clean and paint the area inside and out leaving the holes would be my plan of action.
 

bucket

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The front bed panel bolts in. You can replace the whole thing with zero welding and no hokey "bodywork". Finding a used one should be easy since it's not a commonly rusted part. They just get dented and bent.
 

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I have fixed many a rocker panel by filling with great stuff foam or even crumpled up newspaper and smearing a ton of bondo over it. Of course it's possible. Looks okay for a year or two, good for a beater that won't last long or if you're trying to get a few extra bucks for some POS you're selling. Fiberglass lass much longer but even that isn't a true permanent fix. For obvious reasons it doesn't last forever and eventually you will inevitably need to replace the panel or at the very least cut out the cancer and weld real metal in.
 

oldretiredafguy

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Bolt the new one in, but before you do this drill some small weep holes on the backside [front] before installing. Lets the moisture out and is not noticeable since it's toward the rear of the cab. Be sure to treat the newly exposed bare metal with a rust preventative coating.
 

SirRobyn0

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I'm a good mechanic but a crappy body man. I can make stuff strong, but I'm terrible about getting it pretty. With that said, where I'm from there aren't hardly any wrecking yards left, let alone any squares in the few that are local. I think I say one about 15 years ago, I'm not kidding. So if I was in his shoes and able to weld I'd probably cut out the old and weld in some new metal that would look decent but not great lol.

If I didn't have a weld or didn't want to take the time to do it that way. Honestly when I saw your post about using expanding foam, I thought that was a great idea. Long term I'm sure like others have said it's probably not the best, but for a quick repair with the expectation that it won't last forever I'd do it.
 

bucket

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The OP's location is listed as VA. There's still a lot of squares around for parts. Mostly long bed C10's.
 

SirRobyn0

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The OP's location is listed as VA. There's still a lot of squares around for parts. Mostly long bed C10's.
Well if I had good access to parts I'd swap, but for some reason in his initial post he said he didn't want to.... As a side note, I envy you guys that can go to the wrecking yard and come home with parts for your trucks.
 

bucket

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Well if I had good access to parts I'd swap, but for some reason in his initial post he said he didn't want to.... As a side note, I envy you guys that can go to the wrecking yard and come home with parts for your trucks.

I hardly ever get to go to wrecking yards anymore. Other than one local yard that has all kinds of stuff from the 20's to current, squares in yards are slim pickens the last time I went. This is in Ohio of course. In VA I've often come across people with stuff sitting in yards that they are willing to sell whole or sell parts off of.
 

SirRobyn0

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I hardly ever get to go to wrecking yards anymore. Other than one local yard that has all kinds of stuff from the 20's to current, squares in yards are slim pickens the last time I went. This is in Ohio of course. In VA I've often come across people with stuff sitting in yards that they are willing to sell whole or sell parts off of.

Here 20 years ago, there were wrecking yards. Pretty much every small town had a dirt lot wrecking yard. That's where the older stuff always was, and the good deals. Thanks to environmental laws, and property values all of those little yards are gone now. One of the larger yards 30 miles away still survives, but never has anything anything much more than 20 in it. There is one yard 80 miles away that specializes in classics, but they know how hard it is to find that stuff in this state and charge accordingly.
 

My78truck

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Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I would LOVE to just replace the panel, but have been told that I have to unbolt the bed, disconnect the rear wiring harness, and have on hand 2 other people to slide the bed back. Now, unbolting the bed, after 40+ years may be a challenge, but do-able. There is a boneyard about 1 hour away that I have visited for other things. The problem with getting a front panel off one of those trucks sitting there for years and years is more than a challenge. Most of these trucks are sitting flat on the ground for years. One even has the door stuck open with a tree growing around the door. Shimmying up under them is either not going to happen, or NOT going to happen due to unknown occupants living under them (i.e. copperheads, rattlesnakes, bees and other wildlife). Even if I could get under one, the bolts are more than likely going to be seized on the bed so will be unable to slide that bed back.

I can order one from the many parts distributors, but am afraid it will be made from substandard imported metal. The cost of the panel isn't bad, the freight is what costs.

And BTW, I am a woman working on her 40+ year old truck, daughter of a mechanic, not afraid of work or getting grease under my fingernails and not a "he" in any sense of the word. Always been a tomboy. Just sayin'.

So, is there an easier way to remove, and replace, the front panel?
 

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