Cracked manifold - looking @ headers and exhaust on a budget. Suggestions?

[JimmyDale]

JimmyDale's got a bad exhaust leak - cracked exhaust manifold on the passenger side - tired of breathing fumes and if I hot rod, he backfires sometimes. 350 motor, he's got some duals right now with some small mufflers, decent deep sound cept for the leak, but I'd like deeper and louder.

I don't know much at all about headers at all, but I know they can be a possible performance upgrade. Priorities would be low cost, durability, and low end torque increase. Ragged deep rough sound would be great as well - might buy a couple of small thrush tubes or something to go with it.

What are your specific rec's for JimmyDale? I'm on a seriously cheap budget and know little to nothing about headers. Local exhaust shop will put them on for me. They don't sell any headers though. Any thoughts or feedback appreciated!

 

[Turbo4whl]

Welcome to the site. Cheapest fix, Salvage yard stock exhaust manifold.

Cheap headers will rust quick here in the rust belt. In Mississippi, are you near the ocean? Same problem, rust. You need to buy coated headers. They cost more. Re-curve the distributor advance for the performance increase.

But adding the headers and free flowing exhaust, the carburetor will be too lean. Need to then address this.

The line is this: "If you want to play, you need to pay"

Seriously cheap budget, replace the stock exhaust manifold.

 

[Shorty81]

Welcome to the site. Cheapest fix, Salvage yard stock exhaust manifold.

Cheap headers will rust quick here in the rust belt. In Mississippi, are you near the ocean? Same problem, rust. You need to buy coated headers. They cost more. Re-curve the distributor advance for the performance increase.

But adding the headers and free flowing exhaust, the carburetor will be too lean. Need to then address this.

The line is this: "If you want to play, you need to pay"

Seriously cheap budget, replace the stock exhaust manifold.

I second this advice. And...Welcome from the Buckeye State.

 

[JimmyDale]

Yes! Seriously cheap budget. Bout 2 hours from the MS coast.

I have heard that headers don't last long - might not be a good time to drop money on something that won't last.

Never been to a salvage yard but I'll take my electric impact drill and give it a shot. I appreciate the advice! Will update on how it goes, might be a few weeks.

 

[SquareRoot]

Do you have a hacksaw and a welder?

 

[Big Chip]

https://www.autozone.com/emission-c...PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:EXH:71700000043798982

New manifolds are very reasonably priced.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

I’ve got a set of SBC long tube headers laying around that I’ll sell you for $80. They came off a G Body, but they should fit a K-truck well. I got them for my Jimmy, but I don’t want to rock the exhaust boat right now. They’re painted with high heat paint and located in 39191. Don’t know how close that is to you, but that’s two hours from the coast.

 

[Catbox]

There are also the stainless 3/4 length headers from ebay.
I have a friend that has a set on his truck and they have thick flanges and seem to work well.
They also fit the inexpensive category.

I just googled "Stainless Steel Header" and clicked the link.
Viola!
Loads of options for you, find the ones that are for your truck and get to work...

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[nabeshin]

If my research is right, the best for low end torque is short tube headers of equal length, or, honestly, the stock manifolds.

 

[SquareRoot]

If my research is right, the best for low end torque is short tube headers of equal length, or, honestly, the stock manifolds.

Let your research know that it is wrong. Long tube = torque.

Am I the only one that watches Engine Masters?

 

[Old60Driver]

If my research is right, the best for low end torque is short tube headers of equal length, or, honestly, the stock manifolds.

I'm with ya bud. Everything I've seen on the youtube (Modern Muscle, Summit Racing, Motor Trend, etc...) indicates that shortys are good for low-mid rpm, and longs are good for mid to high rpm, due to back pressure characteristics. I guess it would all depend on if you want your power at the low end vs 6000 rpm?

That being said, I'm truly only living vicariously through others. I have zero real world experience with headers.

 

[Catbox]

Long tube headers will make the best overall power.
Which ever side of the equation floats your boat to look at overall torque or horsepower.
They will produce the best overall of each too.

Shorty headers were made for space reasons.

Same for stock exhaust manifolds.
Easy to produce while meeting the price point.

 

[Old60Driver]

Long tube headers will make the best overall power.
Which ever side of the equation floats your boat to look at overall torque or horsepower.
They will produce the best overall of each too.

Shorty headers were made for space reasons.

Same for stock exhaust manifolds.
Easy to produce while meeting the price point.

Good to know, thanks!

 

[Bennyt]

In regards to welded tubular headers. Until you spend $500-1500 on a set of high quality headers, plan on tightening the bolts, replacing gaskets, on a regular basis and probably replacing the header every 3-5 years on a truck that is driven regularly. The header tube, header flange, header bolts, and cylinder head all expand and contract at different rates.

Best bang for the buck on cast iron heads is cast iron headers from Jegs, flow tech, Sanderson, etc. They flow well, stay tight, warp/crack at the same rate as stock manifolds so they possibly will last you a lifetime, and are fairly inexpensive. They perform probably about 75% as good as a full length header without all the associated problems.

 

[Bennyt]

Until you make a decision, I'd be spraying the hardware weekly with WD40 or equivalent to try and make the job easier when the time comes.