Confusing info on tightening spindle lock nuts

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dkraven

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77 Sierra Grande 3/4 ton with floating axles. Just redid the drum brakes and now staring at the hub pieces going huh. I have two spindle lock nuts and the tabbed washer/lock thing that goes between them.

Watched videos and read where people tighten the first lock nut to 50 foot pounds while spinning the wheel, back off, then tighten to 35, put on the tabbed washer, then the outside lock nut, tighten that to like 115 foot pounds, then bend the tabs over the outside lock nut. But Haynes manual says to do that for the FRONT hubs. For the back it says to adjust the first lock nut to 50 foot pounds, then back off and HAND tighten it, put on the tabbed lock, then put the outside lock nut on and “tighten it securely” with no given torque spec.

I just want to make sure I put the hub on correctly so everything stays put without excessive wear. Not quite sure how these lock nuts are suppose to sit. When I took them off the outside lock nut was good and tight with the tabs folded down over it and the inside lock nut I was able to take off by hand, which makes me wonder what the point of it is!

Anyways, looking for wisdom and experience on this. I recognize Haynes isn’t the ultimate resource, but it’s the most reliable thing I got right now.
 

DoubleDingo

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Maybe the people doing the videos followed the shop manual?
 

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When I rebuilt mine, about 1 in 4 with videos were doing it wrong. I got the shop manual and from that, could tell which ones were doing it right. Same way with my transfer case.

Both came out perfect.

I'd find the OE shop manual and see what it says.
 

legopnuematic

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dkraven

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Thanks, I thought I'd searched thoroughly but hadn't looked in the right places. appreciate the patient nudge
 

DoubleDingo

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Oldbear42

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And remember to pre-load your wheel bearings before reassembly. The shop one of my shop/drinking buddies is an apprentice for (the 22-year-old son of a good friend) found out the hard way when they forgot - it's forever ingrained in his knowledge now.
 

bucket

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And remember to pre-load your wheel bearings before reassembly. The shop one of my shop/drinking buddies is an apprentice for (the 22-year-old son of a good friend) found out the hard way when they forgot - it's forever ingrained in his knowledge now.

What do you mean by this? Do you mean pack with grease?
 

bucket

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Sorry I just realized "pre-load" is a confusing term. I should have said "pre-pack" with grease.

Ok, that's was I was assuming, but wasn't sure. I wondered because in this case, packing the bearing with grease is the wrong thing to do. Typically, any hub bearing that is lubed by a reservoir of gear oil should not be packed with grease. The reason being, the grease can/will get thinned out and possibly impeade the flow of gear oil throughout the bearing.
 

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So, in the case of axle bearings, would you recommend dunking them in gear oil, as opposed to installing them dry? I can see grease causing issues if it doesn't evacuate the bearings properly
 

bucket

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So, in the case of axle bearings, would you recommend dunking them in gear oil, as opposed to installing them dry? I can see grease causing issues if it doesn't evacuate the bearings properly

It doesn't hurt. Either that or pour some fluid into the hub before installing the axle shaft. That way there's lube in there as soon as you start driving it.

*edit* If it's a semi-floater, yeah, dunk the bearings in oil first.
 

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Have ALWAYS put some wheel bearing grease on dry tapered bearings in my FF rear axle when I had the hubs off. NOT packed, but NOT dry.......have NEVER had a problem, with the bearing grease, it doesn't drip off.
 

bucket

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Have ALWAYS put some wheel bearing grease on dry tapered bearings in my FF rear axle when I had the hubs off. NOT packed, but NOT dry.......have NEVER had a problem, with the bearing grease, it doesn't drip off.

Honestly, I've always assumed that if you packed them with grease, it would end up fine too. But, the correct way is easier and less messy, so that's what I've always done.
 

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