Choke plate not closing.

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84 Shorty

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It doesn’t matter how long it sits, the choke plate is always wide open. It’s closed in the pic because I manually closed it.The electric choke is wired to a 12v ign source. Correct me if I’m wrong but shouldn’t the choke plate collapse when it’s sittingover night? Also I changed out my radiator and noticed this. What exactly are these?

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Honky Kong jr

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It doesn’t matter how long it sits, the choke plate is always wide open. The electric choke is wired to a 12v ign source. Correct me if I’m wrong but shouldn’t the choke plate collapse when it’s sittingover night? Also I changed out my radiator and noticed this. What exactly are these?

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The plug is for your brake sensor and the line should be tank vent into the charcoal canister the flap should close when the choke is activated iirc it’s been a while since I played with a choke carb. Lol I have one on the healing bench when I get around to it. Accually it appears to be that same carb. Lol
 

PrairieDrifter

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It doesn’t matter how long it sits, the choke plate is always wide open. It’s closed in the pic because I manually closed it.The electric choke is wired to a 12v ign source. Correct me if I’m wrong but shouldn’t the choke plate collapse when it’s sittingover night? Also I changed out my radiator and noticed this. What exactly are these?

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It should be closed with the key on and engine off, and i don’t think itll be closed ALL of the time while off. Are you running an electric choke quadrajet?
 

84 Shorty

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It should be closed with the key on and engine off, and i don’t think itll be closed ALL of the time while off. Are you running an electric choke quadrajet?

Yes I am, I can go outside the next morning after it sat over night and the choke plate will be wide open.
 

PrairieDrifter

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PrairieDrifter

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Yes I am, I can go outside the next morning after it sat over night and the choke plate will be wide open.
Make sure you have 12v at the carb though. Take a test light and make sure there’s 12v at the connector and if there isn’t then you’ll have to check the choke electrical system. Just one fuse and one wire.

On my 84 the wire is blue, mine also wasn’t working or quit at some point without me noticing but my fuse was good and I have the wiring harness wrapped up so I didn’t want to tear it apart so I just made a new circuit
 

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Try depressing the gas pedal once, with the engine cold, before starting it, and then check the position of the choke.
 

84 Shorty

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Try depressing the gas pedal once, with the engine cold, before starting it, and then check the position of the choke.

I have to play with the gas pedal for a good minute. If not it will sputter and die, no matter the temperature. Once I let it run for a while. I can go back out and it fires up. Could I have a sticking float? Maybe it isn’t allowing enough fuel to the reservoir, so it has a hard time idling?
 

PrairieDrifter

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I have to play with the gas pedal for a good minute. If not it will sputter and die, no matter the temperature. Once I let it run for a while. I can go back out and it fires up. Could I have a sticking float? Maybe it isn’t allowing enough fuel to the reservoir, so it has a hard time idling?
No I’m pretty positive it’s not your float. It’s sounds 99% like improper choke operation
 

PrairieDrifter

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The electric choke operates off vacuum when the engine starts up and that’s what controls the choke flap, once it warms up enough(that 1-2 minutes you have to play with tha pedal) after that it opens the choke all the way which is normal operating temp position, it just needs to have that key on 12v then it’ll work properly.

What he’s talking about is setting your manual high idle, all you have to do is flat foot the accelerator pedal before turning it over and that will set the mechanical high idle
 

84 Shorty

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The electric choke operates off vacuum when the engine starts up and that’s what controls the choke flap, once it warms up enough(that 1-2 minutes you have to play with tha pedal) after that it opens the choke all the way which is normal operating temp position, it just needs to have that key on 12v then it’ll work properly.

What he’s talking about is setting your manual high idle, all you have to do is flat foot the accelerator pedal before turning it over and that will set the mechanical high idle

My electric choke is fine, it has the 12V when ign is on. I even hit the gas pedal once before starting. PITA to keep running, I’m just going to rebuild the damn thing.
 

RustyPile

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Make sure you have 12v at the carb though. Take a test light and make sure there’s 12v at the connector and if there isn’t then you’ll have to check the choke electrical system. Just one fuse and one wire.<<<<snip>>>>
This is not exactly correct.. Voltage appears at the choke ONLY when the engine is running.. Turn the ignition switch to "ON" and the choke light should come on.. Start the engine and the light goes out.. Some where on the engine, is an oil pressure sensor switch (not to be confused with the sensor for the pressure gauge or oil pressure light).. This sensor is a normally open switch. Oil pressure closes the switch and allows current/voltage to the choke.
 

RustyPile

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The electric choke operates off vacuum when the engine starts up and that’s what controls the choke flap, once it warms up enough(that 1-2 minutes you have to play with tha pedal) after that it opens the choke all the way which is normal operating temp position, it just needs to have that key on 12v then it’ll work properly.

What he’s talking about is setting your manual high idle, all you have to do is flat foot the accelerator pedal before turning it over and that will set the mechanical high idle

With all due respect Reaper, This not how the choke works.. Inside the black plastic housing is a temperature sensitive bi-metal coil spring.. One end of the spring is stationary and the other end is attached to a lever. A rod connects this lever to an arm on the choke blade.. Cold ambient temperature causes the spring to wind up, turning the lever thus pulling the rod down, and the choke closes. This action also lifts a small cam to create "fast Idle".. When the engine starts, vacuum is applied to a choke pull, which in turn opens the choke blade slightly.. The voltage applied to the choke heats the bimetal spring causing it to "unwind", thus opening the choke over a period of 3 - 5 minutes depending on the outside temperature..

Before starting the engine, pump the gas pedal 2 - 3 times.. This does 3 things.... It "sets the choke", lifting the fast idle cam, and it introduces a small amount of gasoline into the intake manifold that makes it easier for the "fire to start burning"...
 

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It doesn’t matter how long it sits, the choke plate is always wide open. It’s closed in the pic because I manually closed it.The electric choke is wired to a 12v ign source.


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