Chevrolet 1991 Squarebody 3+3

[idahovette]

My boy painted my 66 Nova 21 years ago with Glasurit and it still looks new. Been inside though that always helps.

 

[Crispy]

Welcome aboard, the truck looks pretty solid.

As mentioned your truck is a 1991 V3500 you can either order parts for those or a 1987 K30 if you see the parts guys are a bit underinformed.

 

[Old77]

 

[Craig 85]

 

[1973c10]

Welcome

 

[Benjamin]

Got a couple hours in today, was able to pull the clutch, the rest of the front bumper (sawzall to get the rusted bolts off) rear bumper and I’m just four friends away from lifting the bed off. As I’m pulling it apart I guess I’m planning the restoration as I go. Here are some thoughts and please ad your advice as you are willing.
1) Disk brakes on the rear. More on that later...
2)lift kit (coil over or leaf spring)
3) Drive shaft (it has that supporting bearing in the middle, how does that work with a lift?)
4) Plan is to get everything that will get outer color paint off and up to someone who can soda blast it, then prime and paint right away. Well that is underway, have axles, frame over for sandblasting and paint and well that is underway, have the transmission, transfer case inspected and serviced, maybe restored, the engine built (planning on a 383) and then the process of trying to remember what goes where.

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[Benjamin]

So one of the things I’m wondering about is the brakes... Seems like there is a block up on the front frame cross member and long lines that go to the back. If I convert it to disk brakes does any of that change? It is attached to the frame so for my plan to work I intend to pull it off. And I hope to get the master cylinder off the firewall for paint.

Also, what is this? It sits on the passenger side top of the rear differential, appears to have brake lines into and out of it plus a control arm, but that appears to be attached to something that doesn’t move, or at least I was unable to...

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[Frankenchevy]

The last couple pics is a load sensing valve. Most people ditch it.

As far as disc conversion, you’ll want to change the brake proportioning valve on the front cross member to a four wheel disc unit. Check my build thread for details.

 

[Craig 85]

I made a wood dolly that was the same height as my frame. My neighbor and I were able to just slide the bed off and onto the dolly. Since I built it with casters, I could roll it around.

The valve at the rear axle is a height sensing proportioning valve for the rear brakes (early idea of ABS). I've bypassed it in 3 trucks now. You may talk to @Frankenchevy . I believe his truck had the valve in there with rear discs prior to his current tear down.

 

[Benjamin]

Thank you! The brake proportioning valve is what sits on the front fame cross member?

 

[Craig 85]

Thank you! The brake proportioning valve is what sits on the front fame cross member?

Yes

 

[Blue Ox]

Beware of just ditching it. My Suburban had violent lockup issues when it didn't have that valve. YMMV.

 

[Frankenchevy]

You’ll definitely want to swap to an all disc prop valve that doesn’t have a residual valve on the rear axle output. The residual pressure can leave your pads resting on the rear rotors, possibly causing warpage.

I’m assuming your truck is hydro boost so you should have decent pressure. Per @Blue Ox ’s advice, I’d install an inline adjustable valve somewhere easily accessible between the front prop valve and rear axle tee. Adjust it accordingly. You’ll probably be able to adjust it with the least amount of wear and tear in a gravel parking lot.

 

[Frankenchevy]

Here’s a picture of my height (load) sensing valve delete when I was redoing my brake lines, so you can start to get an idea. I reused the bracket the rear axle T was mounted to. I just removed the valve and armature that was attached to it. My flex line is a bit longer than oem which I’ve since swapped out for one a few inches shorter, but you get the idea.

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[Benjamin]

That is nice work, hope mine can look something like that!