Camshaft Install/Rocker Adjustment How-To?

[da_raabi]

I've literally never installed a cam before and have no idea how to properly install and then adjust the valve lash.

Does anyone have a good how-to for this? I want to make sure I get everything right - particularly valve lash.

Any comments on the overall cam install process would be MUCH appreciated!

Oh, engine is a 454 BBC.

 

[bucket]

I adjust the valves one cylinder at a time, so I don't lose track of where I am. But on any particular cylinder, rotate the engine until the intake valve is completely open, then adjust the exhaust valve to zero lash + half a turn. Then keep rotating until the exhaust valve is completely open and adjust the intake valve the same way. It's not technically correct, but it works. If you know what you are doing, you can actually adjust all the valves in like 4 rotations of the crank, but I can never remember the sequence.

If it's a flat tappet cam, you smear the special cam break-in lube on all the lobes, while the journals get either assembly lube or just engine oil. If you thread some really long bolts into the end of the cam, they make a good handle while sliding the cam into the block.

 

[Crispy]

Dont know if you are aware or not but another note on flat tappet cams is that they require a break in period of 20-30 mins running at 2000-2200 rpm. You will also need either a special cam break in oil or a zinc (zddp) additive in the fresh oil you are putting in. Older CI-4 spec diesel oil has a naturally high zinc content. I'm running Rotella T4 10W30 plus STP zinc additive to break in the cam on my Trans Am. This is addition to the assembly lube that Lunati included in the box. Make sure you get the cam coated evenly across all lobes with that stuff. Also be easy on installation so as do not damage the cam bearings.

Its a straight forward job, dont overthink it, just go slow and be methodical.

 

[da_raabi]

OK, that sounds about like what I've been reading/thinking. It seems pretty simple, I just want to make sure I'm 100% on the process.

On the T4 oil - I was told last week that Rotella stopped putting in the zinc about a year ago. Anybody heard anything about that?

 

[da_raabi]

OK, that sounds about like what I've been reading/thinking. It seems pretty simple, I just want to make sure I'm 100% on the process.

On the T4 oil - I was told last week that Rotella stopped putting in the zinc about a year ago. Anybody heard anything about that?

 

[bucket]

OK, that sounds about like what I've been reading/thinking. It seems pretty simple, I just want to make sure I'm 100% on the process.

On the T4 oil - I was told last week that Rotella stopped putting in the zinc about a year ago. Anybody heard anything about that?

Yeah, the zinc is out of basically all oils now unless you get some of the specialty oil that's on the market.

 

[TravisB]

I adjust the valves one cylinder at a time, so I don't lose track of where I am. But on any particular cylinder, rotate the engine until the intake valve is completely open, then adjust the exhaust valve to zero lash + half a turn. Then keep rotating until the exhaust valve is completely open and adjust the intake valve the same way. It's not technically correct, but it works. If you know what you are doing, you can actually adjust all the valves in like 4 rotations of the crank, but I can never remember the sequence.

If it's a flat tappet cam, you smear the special cam break-in lube on all the lobes, while the journals get either assembly lube or just engine oil. If you thread some really long bolts into the end of the cam, they make a good handle while sliding the cam into the block.

This is what I do with a hydraulic lifter but if you have solid lifters don't do this. Your valves will stay open lol. I am guessing that you have hydraulic lifters but just in case.

 

[bucket]

This is what I do with a hydraulic lifter but if you have solid lifters don't do this. Your valves will stay open lol. I am guessing that you have hydraulic lifters but just in case.

Yeah, I've never had anything with solid lifters.

 

[75Monza]

As for installing the cam, made my own install tool with old cam gear, cut the outer part of the gear off leaving about a 3-4" center piece with the holes for the gear bolts left, ground the outside down smooth with a 4 1/2" grinder, or use a bench grinder. Took 10" of 1/2 pipe and welded in the center leaving plenty of clearance for the bolt heads, then welded 5" of 3/4" pipe (can't remember if that is right size) on other end of 1/2" pipe and stuck an old bicycle handlebar grip with the notches for your fingers on. Gives plenty of leverage with the length and still enough room on bar for both hands as your guiding it in.

 

[DoubleDingo]

I saw a guy the other day at the auto parts store, and he provided some good info on oil. He said to use Valvoline Racing Oil. He said it has the zinc needed for hydraulic flat tappet cams. He said make sure it says "Racing" on the bottle. He discouraged using STP Oil Treatment as it is near impossible to clean out of an engine. I use STP right now, but plan to start using the Valvoline Racing Oil as soon as I can find a place that stocks it.

You can do the two-roll method to adjust the valves, or use the method @bucket suggested. Either way you'll end up with the same results. I like the two-roll method, it's easy and fast.

 

[Snoots]

How NOT to adjust a cam . . .

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[DoubleDingo]

How NOT to adjust a cam . . .

You must be registered for see images attach

That'll buff out...

 

[Blue Ox]

How NOT to adjust a cam . . .

You must be registered for see images attach

Tried to set it too long?

 

[bucket]

How NOT to adjust a cam . . .

You must be registered for see images attach

That must be one of them new-fangled 2-piece camshafts?

 

[shiftpro]

That'll buff out...

Much worse than that Dingo, it needs to be reground.