Camshaft discussion

[DoubleDingo]

I will agree with what they're telling you. My '65 truck that I bought a few years ago had a cam that had a mild lope to it. Sounded cool but it was a turd for power. The truck has 4.57 gears, and the tires are around 32" in diameter and the truck could barely pull hills in 3rd, let alone overdrive.

In April I changed the cam to a cam with idle to 4,600 rpm range, and had some Mexico heads refreshed and I easily gained 20-30 hp and gained a lot more torque. The truck can now pull hills in overdrive whereas before I had to drop it into 3rd gear (1:1) and rev it up to 3,000 rpm to go 50 mph. In overdrive the final drive is 3.19, because the overdrive is a 30% drop in rpms.

We can't tell you how to spend your money, but if you want sound and no performance in YOUR truck go for it. As stated, it's a lot of work to change a cam, and to change it just for sound and no performance gain is money and time not well spent.

 

[QBuff02]

and buy a bottle of zinc additive for the oil, its critical for cam life.

 

[gpmorgan]

I ran comp 1.52 roller tips on a 450hp sbc. Got great service from them. You have a comp cam so why not their rockers.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

and buy a bottle of zinc additive for the oil, its critical for cam life.

Or pony up the extra doe and go roller and not worry about it ever again. I'm done with flat tappet stuff only had one bite me in the ass and that was enough and that was someone else's not breaking it in properly which led to my current configuration.

 

[QBuff02]

that's what I was thinking about when it comes time to do a little work on my 454, and in the situation where you're going to rebuild the engine... In the grand scheme of dollars invested, what's another $500ish or so over the price of a regular cam to put a roller setup in and be done with it! The local speed shop here says he's seen numerous cams go flat in the last few years and it's mostly been attributed to the oils of today causing the problems. He swears up and down on putting the zinc additive in with every oil change or making sure to run oil that has it in it already. And you're absolutely right @HonkyKongjr if the cam doesn't get broke in properly, it's never going to live!

 

[75gmck25]

Unless you have heads with the flow and compression to work with the longer duration cam, that cam will probably feel like you lost about 30 HP most of the time. It will be even worse if you are going to use 37's without swapping to lower gears.

Bruce

 

[MikeB]

...i decided on the 279 comp cam. Now i know i need the camshaft itself, the timing chain and gears, and the lifters. Is there anything else that i NEED to get when installing the cam?

Well, yes. High-rise manifold with 650-700 CFM carb, high performance cylinder heads, headers with at least 1-5/8" primaries, free flowing 2-1/2" exhausts, performance ignition advance curve, and the correct overall gearing to keep the engine in its powerband.

Seriously, that cam is WAY TOO BIG for an otherwise stock engine. It will substantially lower vacuum, create a choppy and inconsistent idle, reduce torque, and MAYBE make more power above 4500 RPM. Your best bet would be a cam with stock duration (or a few degrees more) and increased lift. But if you want a radical idle and don't care about anything else...[/QUOTE]

 

[82sbshortbed]

Engine Pro Chevy SBC 305 350 5.7L HP RV Stage 3 458/458 Lift Camshaft and Lifters Kit


Dur @ .050" 218/218 | Lift .458/.458 | Lobe Sep. 105/115GOOD LOW TO MID TORQUE.RPM Range 2000-4000Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft & LiftersCHEVROLET Small Block V8 1955-95 - Flat Tappet Hydraulic Cam / 262, 265, 267, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350, 400 C.I.

Product information

BrandEngine ProPackage Dimensions24 x 6 x 4 inchesManufacturer Part NumberMCK1989

I've never installed a cam before and was looking at the above one. I like the big lope at idle sound but, after reading some of the comments I don't want one with all bark no bite. This one seems to have good low to mid range power improvement. It comes with lifters and I think I can use same push rods that are in it. Not sure because I've never put one in before.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Sweet!
I really dig single pattern cams. I own...two... between three engines... but only beause I didn't pick the third cam.
Single pattern camshafts do all the good loping, ya. I bet you'll love it!
2k-4k isn't much range with the little separation AND duration so as long as you won't get disappointed when it quits pulling up top, you'll be alright..because it will.

 

[82sbshortbed]

Sweet!
I really dig single pattern cams. I own...two... between three engines... but only beause I didn't pick the third cam.
Single pattern camshafts do all the good loping, ya. I bet you'll love it!
2k-4k isn't much range with the little separation AND duration so as long as you won't get disappointed when it quits pulling up top, you'll be alright..because it will.

Thanks for the info rusty nail. From what you described about the cam it sounds like just about what I was looking for. Nice idle lope and will smoke the tires from time to time. Lol. I'm not looking for big top end pull so it should do what I'm looking for it to do.

Is there a thread on how to install a cam that I didn't see? I'm putting it in with the engine in the truck. Should I pull the push rods and lifters out before pulling the cam? This might be a dumb question but, if you pull the cam out first will the lifters and rods fall in the engine? Which means I'll have to pull the heads off first to remove lifters. Thanks again.

 

[Rusty Nail]

You're welcome. There is loads of help that can be found HERE. Much of it is more friendly than I.

There is no need to pull heads. The lifters can be removed from the "lifter valley" underneath the intake manifold. You will have to remove that / buy new gaskets, remove the water pump and timing cover / buy new gaskets, remove the belts, the radiator, the grille, and the harmonic damper - which requires a puller. It's likely NOT something one can whip out after work one night and ride it back in the morning...
It's a pretty big project for someone like you. (Most people) I'm not talking ****, but you should plan accordingly. The pushrods are the LEAST of your worries!

Get a couple of cardboard boxes, a Sharpie, a magnet on a stick, masking tape, and disposable ice cube trays for the project. Some people (me) insist that EVERYTHING goes back EXACTLY where it came from. Rocker arms, pushrods, etc. All that must be kept in specific order.
You will also need to change the oil and add antifreeze when finished.

Wrap your head around all of THAT, take two asprins and call me in the morning - after you come to your senses.

If this is your daily driver, I am trying to talk you out of it.

 

[crazy4offroad]

I recently put in a similar cam, Comp's 268h single pattern or "square pattern". It has 110 degree lobe separation though for a smoother idle and a little more up top. First time I lit the tires up (38.5x14.5 swamper sx) it quickly went to 2nd gear and I think if I would have laid into it would have hit 3rd. Make sure you got the compression to make it worthwhile.

 

[4WDKC]

Engine Pro Chevy SBC 305 350 5.7L HP RV Stage 3 458/458 Lift Camshaft and Lifters Kit


Dur @ .050" 218/218 | Lift .458/.458 | Lobe Sep. 105/115GOOD LOW TO MID TORQUE.RPM Range 2000-4000Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft & LiftersCHEVROLET Small Block V8 1955-95 - Flat Tappet Hydraulic Cam / 262, 265, 267, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350, 400 C.I.

Product information

BrandEngine ProPackage Dimensions24 x 6 x 4 inchesManufacturer Part NumberMCK1989

I've never installed a cam before and was looking at the above one. I like the big lope at idle sound but, after reading some of the comments I don't want one with all bark no bite. This one seems to have good low to mid range power improvement. It comes with lifters and I think I can use same push rods that are in it. Not sure because I've never put one in before.

As stated before the cam has to match the compression, stall or convertor, gears, tire size weight of car/truck or it will be disappointing.

 

[Rusty Nail]

X2 Comp Cams 268H ....in a 408sbc.

 

[hirschdalechevy]

Engine Pro Chevy SBC 305 350 5.7L HP RV Stage 3 458/458 Lift Camshaft and Lifters Kit


Dur @ .050" 218/218 | Lift .458/.458 | Lobe Sep. 105/115GOOD LOW TO MID TORQUE.RPM Range 2000-4000Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft & LiftersCHEVROLET Small Block V8 1955-95 - Flat Tappet Hydraulic Cam / 262, 265, 267, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350, 400 C.I.

Product information

BrandEngine ProPackage Dimensions24 x 6 x 4 inchesManufacturer Part NumberMCK1989

I've never installed a cam before and was looking at the above one. I like the big lope at idle sound but, after reading some of the comments I don't want one with all bark no bite. This one seems to have good low to mid range power improvement. It comes with lifters and I think I can use same push rods that are in it. Not sure because I've never put one in before.

If you are a low compression small block you might want to look at the crane 10017 , same spec's as what you are looking at but with a 106 lode sep. The one you are looking at is 105+115=220 then divided by 2 makes that cam a 110 lode sep. The 106 on the crane cam at the same spec's makes more cylinder pressure , (for low compression stocker) which in turn makes more low end power , (with a little less up top) , and a more choppy idle , best of both worlds. The OP should check this cam out as well, much better choice for a low compression motor with crappy heads,(bad heads work better with tight lsa cams imo.)

We put this cam in a goodwrench motor,(shaved heads, thin steel heads gasket's) with all the bolt on's and it sounded cool at the light and pulled pretty hard in a k-10 square on 33's , stock stall , 3.73 gears