C20 Upper Control Arm Shaft Studs

[oneluckypops]

Yep, or maybe see if I can find someone to make me the studs with a tab bigger knurl to it.

Sorry to say but as long as your truck has been like this your holes are gonna be egg shaped, Only way you could actually do any good is to go ahead and ream the holes out then make new studs to go in them but I would not knurl them I would just make them into bolts with a Wide flange for the inside of the frame and weld them inplace.

 

[HotRodPC]

Sorry to say but as long as your truck has been like this your holes are gonna be egg shaped, Only way you could actually do any good is to go ahead and ream the holes out then make new studs to go in them but I would not knurl them I would just make them into bolts with a Wide flange for the inside of the frame and weld them inplace.

Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing and why I have pretty much decided just to weld the studs. What I'll do is jack up the lower A arm just enough to get the tire off the ground. When this happens, the weight of the tire pulls the studs all the way in, and straight. I already checked that out. So I'll use the weight of the tire itself to hold the studs in place where I want them, then tack weld at 9 o clock and 3 o clock position of the studs. Luckily, this actually isn't the frame. Its a frame brace. But the brace is riveted on. LMC has a good Diagram of what I mean on page 146 of 73-87 trucks catalog. So if ever I take that motor out of that truck, I will grind the 3 rivets and replace that bracket off of the brown truck that has the bent frame rail. Its on the list of parts to save off that wrecked 85 C20.

 

[89Suburban]

This is a great thread, I really want to see the outcome.

 

[HotRodPC]

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/CC/full.aspx?Page=146

LMC does a great job with diagrams. My problem is with Illustration #12. My part # for these studs is 30-0265 for 2wd 3/4 ton. They don't have part # for the bracket that is probably egg shaped now. But its got 2 bolts that go to bracket Ill #16, then also 3 large rivets, that rivet it to the engine cradle. If ever got to replace that, I'll have to grind those 3 rivets and use Grade 8 bolts, lock washers and lock-tite to bolt another bracket in, which I will do someday if I ever do a motor swap on this truck. But for now, the plan is to weld the studs stationary in there current holes and all should be fine.

 

[89Suburban]

I don't understand which bracket you are talking about, you need the one to the right of #16? That L shaped one?

 

[HotRodPC]

I don't understand which bracket you are talking about, you need the one to the right of #16? That L shaped one?

The studs I am reffering to are pointed at with red arrows here.

The bracket that those studs are held into, that are likley to have egg shaped holes now is pointed to with the double blue arrow, and it sits on what I am reffering to as the engine cradle.

The bigger blue arrows points to the 3 holes in the engine cradle or sub frame, that this bracket sits on and is riveted to with big frame rivets. So to replace that braacket, I'll have to grind off 3 huge rivetes to get the part off, along with the bolts that bolt to the bracket reffered to as #16. The lightly shaded parts in this illustration, LMC does not list or sell, so that means I'll have to get that bracket off another truck. I have it on the damage frame rail truck at my dads. I'll just have to grind the rivets off and revome the subframe to get to it But I want my truck right, so I'll probably ended up doingl

 

[89Suburban]

Jesus Christ that sucks.

 

[HotRodPC]

Its not so bad. I'm hoping to go out and weld them studs here in a few minutes and it will good as new. Then, before I scrap that damaged 85 C20 frame, I'll take those parts I need from it. Then when and if I ever do a motor swap, I'll fix this truck right. Remember, I have been considering putting the Fo Fitty Fo in the Burb anyway. I had almost considered parting this truck for parts on the 2 4x4's and the Burb and this truck be disolved and why I had not worried about this problem in the past. But, I 've decided its to good a truck. Everything works down to the cruise control, power locks & windows and all guages. Both tanks work, Little to no rust at all, and its curretnly registered, so I am not parting out an ugly truck that just needs to be prepped for paint and shoot some color on it.

 

[89Suburban]

Its not so bad. I'm hoping to go out and weld them studs here in a few minutes and it will good as new. Then, before I scrap that damaged 85 C20 frame, I'll take those parts I need from it. Then when and if I ever do a motor swap, I'll fix this truck right. Remember, I have been considering putting the Fo Fitty Fo in the Burb anyway. I had almost considered parting this truck for parts on the 2 4x4's and the Burb and this truck be disolved and why I had not worried about this problem in the past. But, I 've decided its to good a truck. Everything works down to the cruise control, power locks & windows and all guages. Both tanks work, Little to no rust at all, and its curretnly registered, so I am not parting out an ugly truck that just needs to be prepped for paint and shoot some color on it.

That makes sense to me buddy. That would be a great write-up for the site whenever you go to replace that piece.

 

[HotRodPC]

That makes sense to me buddy. That would be a great write-up for the site whenever you go to replace that piece.

With the motor and the motor pad out of the way, I'll be able to take pics and I'll sure do that. Getting ready to run out there now and fire up the Lincoln stick welder. Fingers crossed !!!

 

[89Suburban]

Good luck man! Watch your eyes!

 

[HotRodPC]

WELL ****!!! Damn thing isn't working. I have ran 2 6013 rods in that stupid little hole about the size of a 50 cent piece and nothing is sticking. I did crank the welder up to 90 as C4 said cuz the rod was sticking as he said it would. I can see the rod flowing, not sure where its going, but its not sticking to what I need it to for some reason. And I hope I haven't fugged up my eyes. I was using goggles not a hood. Is there a differance? My eyes are starting to feel like they got sand in them. I had flash burn once before and its not fun. Damn, I hope not. I live by myself and won't be able to see ****.

But WTF about the truck? Any ideas what I am doing wrong and why the weld isn't sticking???

 

[crazy4offroad]

Oh **** man, dont ever use brazing goggles (green) to weld with. Get your ass to Harbor Freight and get a cheap auto darkening hood!!!

 

[Irishman999]

WELL ****!!! Damn thing isn't working. I have ran 2 6013 rods in that stupid little hole about the size of a 50 cent piece and nothing is sticking. I did crank the welder up to 90 as C4 said cuz the rod was sticking as he said it would. I can see the rod flowing, not sure where its going, but its not sticking to what I need it to for some reason. And I hope I haven't fugged up my eyes. I was using goggles not a hood. Is there a differance? My eyes are starting to feel like they got sand in them. I had flash burn once before and its not fun. Damn, I hope not. I live by myself and won't be able to see ****.

But WTF about the truck? Any ideas what I am doing wrong and why the weld isn't sticking???

Make sure your grounded to something with bare metal. If still nothing go get a little container of new rods.

We always used 7018 rod on cattle guards because it would burn through the paint and rust no problem.

 

[crazy4offroad]

If there was some kind of cast iron involved I could see there being problems with the weld not sticking. I think mainly you'll need a better hood so you can really see what you're doing. You may wanna go put some visine in your eyes like right now, I had a buddy burn both his eye pretty bad using "Terminator" sun glasses to weld a bumper with, he had to wear patches for 2 weeks!