Buying an RV

[mistaake]

I want a bed camper for my square think it'd be sweet

I discussed that option with my mom and I guess her concern is the size. That said, from the pictures at least they look roomy enough.

Those require a long bed dually though, right? And we would need to purchase an additional truck for that...

 

[crazy4offroad]

I've been wanting a truck camper too, not really an RV. They make em to fit in a 6 or 8' bed these days, and modern materials to be more light weight, under 2000 lb. And with extended cab trucks they make a bigger sleeping area that goes over the cab. But man are they ever money. I've seen a couple nice newer model ones between $4000-$7000 but the newer ones are all over $10k. Best thing about em is no title, so no registration or plate required, which means there's no property tax either. Also you can still pull a utility trailer or boat trailer. I've been wanting to build a nice longbed 3/4 ton square with modern driveline, like a 5.3/4L60 or 80e, and get a camper to go on it. Get on CL and search "truck camper" it would be the perfect thing for me hunting out on the farm or trout fishin up in the big mountains. It's usually just me, or me & wife so I think they would have everything a person would need for a few days but if she wants to go to like the grand canyon or the beach or something you'd probably want a bigger camper.

 

[77 K20]

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/rvs/5289544312.html

Did you consider something like this? It can be pulled by almost anything.

 

[mistaake]

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/rvs/5289544312.html

Did you consider something like this? It can be pulled by almost anything.

I'll show her that. It's an inexpensive and light option. I vaguely recall there was a reason we didn't want to go that route but I don't remember and will run it by her again.

I came up with a quick design for the layout on a 6x12 cargo trailer with V-nose.

I didn't account for any appliances or running water but this could be easily added (in my mind the sink would go in the middle of the counter in the V-nose portion and then the water system would go under that counter thing).

A microwave could go on the counter or on the shelf. A/C could be on one of the front sides under the counter as well. The space between the front counter and the shelf could be used for a composting toilet or refrigerator.

In my design the table would fold down so there is plenty of interior space for loading up cargo (so it would still be useful as a cargo trailer). More storage space under the bed as well. In the design I got lazy and just made it like the shelf but in reality a better solution would be enclosed sides and the bed is like the top of a chest. Could store all of the bedding there. In terms of sleeping a second person we could add another fold out section to the bed to make it double width or they could sleep on the floor once the table is folded down.

One thing I'm not sure about is how to prevent all the stuff falling off the shelf when the trailer is moving. Perhaps a little "lip" of sorts that sticks up in the front of the shelf? I am trying to avoid having cabinet style doors over every section.

Mom's BF does construction so he could cut the hole for the window and he'd know how to insulate it. It's easy to pull the interior wall off the trailer and there is about 1" of space there but he'd know the best way to do it. The ceiling would be insulated as well. Not sure about the floor. Would rather not take up any space because the trailer is already not that tall. The 5x8 and 5x10 trailers are all too short. The 6x10 and 6x12 have another 6" or so of headroom which makes all the difference but another 1-2" on the floor would be an issue. Mom, her BF, and I are all tall people. Perhaps just linoleum on the floor would be sufficient?

Some people on YouTube who have done similar stuff have made the inside look nice with wood paneling or that thin wood stuff (forget what's called?) but another alternative is just to either paint it or put some coating? As long as it doesn't smell bad inside as we would not be able to leave it open all the time to air it out.

Even with all this, it should still be light enough to be towed by any truck or SUV. My 2007 Chevy Colorado or 1995 Suburban K1500, or any square body truck, or anything really.

Anyway here's what I came up with. Constructive criticism or anything I'm missing is appreciated...

http://imgur.com/a/Pax1S

 

[87scotty]

Spray in insulation best way to go thin but not that cheap I'd imagine you could do it yourself never seen it done but heard good things

 

[mistaake]

Spray in insulation best way to go thin but not that cheap I'd imagine you could do it yourself never seen it done but heard good things

Seems like other people that have done the conversion just used rigid foam insulation. Does spray foam insulation do a better job?

 

[quaddriver]

I came to this dance late, but after owning for a few decades here is my $.05

Rule #1: All RVs leak. Dont care who made them, how new they are. How much it cost. All RVs leak. The quarter-mil (and up) bus based coaches leak LESS, but, you paid a quarter-mil and up.

That being said, never go after the cheaper wooden space frame/fiberglass insulation/siding covered ones. They leak the most, have mold the most, come apart the easiest and are just cheap.

You want the aluminum framed ones built like a cooler, that use foam panels and have the fiberglass skin bonded on the outside. When they leak, the water stays to the outside - keeping the required repair work out there, and not the interior (mold!)

Do you want a TT (travel trailer) or MH (motorhome)?

If you want a motorhome, the LEAST trouble you will ever have is to get a 90+ Ford E350 cutaway based unit - the 460EFI and E4OD is failrly bulletproof, adult designed and will deliver what you need.

GM invented the 400SBC because the vans could not take a big block. If we are talking 22ft, the 350/400 versions are ADEQUATE. IF you never tow.

The 460 in my 29fter steps out right smartly and still gets 8mpg. Yes, they get 8mpg. The 4bbl versions with the C6 get WORSE.

Guys with the V10 do get 10, but far newer = more $$$

Avoid diesel from any maker but one - not worth the drama.

However, if you got some cash, the Winnie View (22-24ft) on the Sprinter 3500 chassis with the 5cyl benz diesel - 18-21mpg!! (step dad had one, just sold it for a bigger class A)

You gotta equip the interior based on where you will be. I have heat, AC, genset, full kitchen etc because we camp 8-9 months of the year and often boondock (no services)

Look for one where the owners were older and had no kids. Or pets. Kids drop stuff, pets pee. period.

Pay attention to towing if you are going to. My 29fter has an 8' overhang (or more) and is hence rated at 3500lbs with only a 300lb tongue. We do overload by pulling a dolly (500lbs) with my Jetta behind it. WE also tow a 3500lb carmate to the shows, the class A chassis and the newer E450+ chassis are reinforced to tow more.

The biggest pains in the a$$ are the plumbing systems and the control boards for appliances. If you or your mom cannot plumb in pex, you will be paying a LOT for stuff that breaks a lot. and the control boards seem to always fail. I am about to do the hot water the 2nd time, I replaced the fridge board and I did a complete replace on the onan emerald - control plus VR. Since I can do these things, it only cost me $100's, if you have to have someone drop an onan for you, its over $1000 just to start.

And then, the TIRES and brakes. Since they sit so long, the front calipers stick so damn often, you replace the entire front brake system every couple years. And lets face it, tires are out of sight. So people buy the new fad - korean tires. I have yet to see a set of korean 'truck' tires (they are all load range E) that do not break belts as soon as you get them rolling.

Find your best deal, check it out everywhere, ask questions and still prepare to spend a lot of money on the side.

ps: all but the most modern units use converters that charge the batteries at a 3-5amp rate. MAX. And all the incandescent bulbs inside draw at least an amp each. There are close to 20 bulbs on average in a unit. Your lights, will take you down. If you boondock, think 2 batteries, LED lights, and bypass the converter charger for a higher power multi channel unit (I use a NOCO 10 amp per channel charger and 2 group 24's)

 

[87scotty]

I came to this dance late, but after owning for a few decades here is my $.05

Rule #1: All RVs leak. Dont care who made them, how new they are. How much it cost. All RVs leak. The quarter-mil (and up) bus based coaches leak LESS, but, you paid a quarter-mil and up.

That being said, never go after the cheaper wooden space frame/fiberglass insulation/siding covered ones. They leak the most, have mold the most, come apart the easiest and are just cheap.

You want the aluminum framed ones built like a cooler, that use foam panels and have the fiberglass skin bonded on the outside. When they leak, the water stays to the outside - keeping the required repair work out there, and not the interior (mold!)

Do you want a TT (travel trailer) or MH (motorhome)?

If you want a motorhome, the LEAST trouble you will ever have is to get a 90+ Ford E350 cutaway based unit - the 460EFI and E4OD is failrly bulletproof, adult designed and will deliver what you need.

GM invented the 400SBC because the vans could not take a big block. If we are talking 22ft, the 350/400 versions are ADEQUATE. IF you never tow.

The 460 in my 29fter steps out right smartly and still gets 8mpg. Yes, they get 8mpg. The 4bbl versions with the C6 get WORSE.

Guys with the V10 do get 10, but far newer = more $$$

Avoid diesel from any maker but one - not worth the drama.

However, if you got some cash, the Winnie View (22-24ft) on the Sprinter 3500 chassis with the 5cyl benz diesel - 18-21mpg!! (step dad had one, just sold it for a bigger class A)

You gotta equip the interior based on where you will be. I have heat, AC, genset, full kitchen etc because we camp 8-9 months of the year and often boondock (no services)

Look for one where the owners were older and had no kids. Or pets. Kids drop stuff, pets pee. period.

Pay attention to towing if you are going to. My 29fter has an 8' overhang (or more) and is hence rated at 3500lbs with only a 300lb tongue. We do overload by pulling a dolly (500lbs) with my Jetta behind it. WE also tow a 3500lb carmate to the shows, the class A chassis and the newer E450+ chassis are reinforced to tow more.

The biggest pains in the a$$ are the plumbing systems and the control boards for appliances. If you or your mom cannot plumb in pex, you will be paying a LOT for stuff that breaks a lot. and the control boards seem to always fail. I am about to do the hot water the 2nd time, I replaced the fridge board and I did a complete replace on the onan emerald - control plus VR. Since I can do these things, it only cost me $100's, if you have to have someone drop an onan for you, its over $1000 just to start.

And then, the TIRES and brakes. Since they sit so long, the front calipers stick so damn often, you replace the entire front brake system every couple years. And lets face it, tires are out of sight. So people buy the new fad - korean tires. I have yet to see a set of korean 'truck' tires (they are all load range E) that do not break belts as soon as you get them rolling.

Find your best deal, check it out everywhere, ask questions and still prepare to spend a lot of money on the side.

ps: all but the most modern units use converters that charge the batteries at a 3-5amp rate. MAX. And all the incandescent bulbs inside draw at least an amp each. There are close to 20 bulbs on average in a unit. Your lights, will take you down. If you boondock, think 2 batteries, LED lights, and bypass the converter charger for a higher power multi channel unit (I use a NOCO 10 amp per channel charger and 2 group 24's)

Good info thank you