Hey guys, just an update and a bit of humor for you all.
Ordered a flexplate and got it in this afternoon. Good idea whoever suggested the long bolt trick. That saved me BIG time and I will tell you why. I think I have resolved any guessing on why I keep breaking flexplates.
Basically, I was having issues with the tranny separating from the motor on the passenger side and was nervous about breaking the dreaded “repair” that we have all seen on my casing.. so I carefully ran a long prybar vertically in between the block and the trans to gingerly persuade it and then pieces fell off of the “repair”... I though, geez oh Pete, I’m in trouble. I had determined that this was a JB weld repair, but that is not the case at all. This was actually a cobbled aluminum repair that someone stuck BONDO over the top off.. BONDO ON A TRANS CASING!!!!
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Here is one of the bondo pieces that came off the corner of the bell housing.
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I then see a bead of weld from the ugly repair all the way back to the trans cooler line fitting. Trans was cracked and broken at one time. Someone welded what they could, then fabricated a mess of aluminum at the mating surface
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This casing has had a hard life, I am certain that all of this welding and junk is my misalignment issue that cause my broken flex plates.
So then when I try to get the trans mated to the motor again, it won’t go. I finally realized that the tail shaft was too high which couldn’t be the case since the trans was resting on the bolted in crossmember.... which meant the motor was too low. I raised the motor, then everything lined up right away. My thinking is the bad motor mounts caused extra stress on the casing which may have been why the casing cracked, which is why it was repaired, and is why said repairs are causing flexplate fiascos.
Conclusion... I am now sourcing a new tranny hahah.
Thanks for the help.