Break-in oil

[K5_489]

All of my engines have been broken in, and continue to run, on WalMart's SuperTech oil. Yep, the cheap stuff. They're all made to the same standards anyways, and the tests done on that specific oil has always come out good. I just wish I could get this stuff in big drums, or at least 5 gallon pails. I could see using the fancy (expensive) stuff on the all out motors, but I don't think it's needed in the vast majority of our even "performance" engines. But if it makes people feel better to run it, I wouldn't fault them.

My 489 with the flat tappets got a bottle of Lunati's break in additive along with 7 quarts of SuperTech 10w-30 during the cam break in, and another bottle for the first break in road miles. Zero issues, great oil pressure, cam survived just fine, despite all the horror stories of BBCs eating flat tappet cams. I'll probably keep adding the break in additives at the regular oil changes just for good measure.

 

[Goldie Driver]

All of my engines have been broken in, and continue to run, on WalMart's SuperTech oil. Yep, the cheap stuff. They're all made to the same standards anyways, and the tests done on that specific oil has always come out good. I just wish I could get this stuff in big drums, or at least 5 gallon pails. I could see using the fancy (expensive) stuff on the all out motors, but I don't think it's needed in the vast majority of our even "performance" engines. But if it makes people feel better to run it, I wouldn't fault them.

My 489 with the flat tappets got a bottle of Lunati's break in additive along with 7 quarts of SuperTech 10w-30 during the cam break in, and another bottle for the first break in road miles. Zero issues, great oil pressure, cam survived just fine, despite all the horror stories of BBCs eating flat tappet cams. I'll probably keep adding the break in additives at the regular oil changes just for good measure.

Good to know as I like the cheap SuperTech oil. Any idea who actually makes it ? I am guessing either QS or Pennz, but ?

 

[80BrownK10]

Good to know as I like the cheap SuperTech oil. Any idea who actually makes it ? I am guessing either QS or Pennz, but ?

Warren.

They make Tractor supply company oil too.

 

[80BrownK10]

All of my engines have been broken in, and continue to run, on WalMart's SuperTech oil. Yep, the cheap stuff. They're all made to the same standards anyways, and the tests done on that specific oil has always come out good. I just wish I could get this stuff in big drums, or at least 5 gallon pails. I could see using the fancy (expensive) stuff on the all out motors, but I don't think it's needed in the vast majority of our even "performance" engines. But if it makes people feel better to run it, I wouldn't fault them.

My 489 with the flat tappets got a bottle of Lunati's break in additive along with 7 quarts of SuperTech 10w-30 during the cam break in, and another bottle for the first break in road miles. Zero issues, great oil pressure, cam survived just fine, despite all the horror stories of BBCs eating flat tappet cams. I'll probably keep adding the break in additives at the regular oil changes just for good measure.

I read a thing that was copied and n a few forums. But I believe it was a guy who did testing or a writer? Anyway he tested lots of oils. And he touched on the zinc additive. Said as last ng as the zinc was present that all that counted. Other additives were added to replace and work with zinc. Had a huge list of the oils and how they wore. Also said the new rotella performed better than the old. New had way more zinc than the old formula.

Had they oils ranked as to protection they provide. Mobil 1 5w30 was one of the top performers. Mobil1 10w 30 was not as bad.

I could probably dig that link up. Was pretty good read.

 

[K5_489]

Probably one of the same articles I read, where he was doing tests that actually simulated what happens inside of a running engine, as opposed to the simple shear tests of a bar applying pressure to a roller, and had a butt load of different oils tested instead of just half a dozen of the typical big name oils. Same thing, I can't recall off the top of my head, but could likely find it again if I went hunting for it.

One of the interesting take-aways I've gotten from a number of those tests though has been related to the ZDDP content, specifically that there is such a thing as too much of it, and it actually ends up being even worse than having low levels of it in the oil. Anecdotally, I have had a few buddies lose a motor real early, and those guys were the ones that insisted on running high dollar break in oil, AND tossing a few bottles of break in additive in there as well...."more is better, right? Can't have too much protection!!"

My "not anything even remotely resembling an expert on oils" gut feeling has always been that assuming you're not grabbing some random generic SC rated oil from the dollar store or gas station, that it really doesn't matter what name is on the bottle you're using for the vast majority of the engines we run. There are millions of engines out there passing 200K easy on the cheapest oil that people can find/the cheapest supplier that their local Jiffy Lube type place buys from, and stretching oil changes to 15K+ miles, and still running great. Heck, I was just thinking today "I'm not sure I've changed the oil in the K2500 yet...this year", lol.

There are also a TON of myths that people buy into, often related to the "you get what you pay for" mindset, with absolutely zero actual data to back it up. Or my favorite - "So and so uses it in all of their race cars, so it should be even better in my street car!".

But as I said prior, if running the $10/quart oil lets people sleep at night, have a grand ol' time doing it. I ain't judging, lol, and I'm not going to say you're doing it wrong. But I'll gladly keep running the $12/gallon oil as I've been doing for years, and not think twice about it.

 

[80BrownK10]

Probably one of the same articles I read, where he was doing tests that actually simulated what happens inside of a running engine, as opposed to the simple shear tests of a bar applying pressure to a roller, and had a butt load of different oils tested instead of just half a dozen of the typical big name oils. Same thing, I can't recall off the top of my head, but could likely find it again if I went hunting for it.

One of the interesting take-aways I've gotten from a number of those tests though has been related to the ZDDP content, specifically that there is such a thing as too much of it, and it actually ends up being even worse than having low levels of it in the oil. Anecdotally, I have had a few buddies lose a motor real early, and those guys were the ones that insisted on running high dollar break in oil, AND tossing a few bottles of break in additive in there as well...."more is better, right? Can't have too much protection!!"

My "not anything even remotely resembling an expert on oils" gut feeling has always been that assuming you're not grabbing some random generic SC rated oil from the dollar store or gas station, that it really doesn't matter what name is on the bottle you're using for the vast majority of the engines we run. There are millions of engines out there passing 200K easy on the cheapest oil that people can find/the cheapest supplier that their local Jiffy Lube type place buys from, and stretching oil changes to 15K+ miles, and still running great. Heck, I was just thinking today "I'm not sure I've changed the oil in the K2500 yet...this year", lol.

There are also a TON of myths that people buy into, often related to the "you get what you pay for" mindset, with absolutely zero actual data to back it up. Or my favorite - "So and so uses it in all of their race cars, so it should be even better in my street car!".

But as I said prior, if running the $10/quart oil lets people sleep at night, have a grand ol' time doing it. I ain't judging, lol, and I'm not going to say you're doing it wrong. But I'll gladly keep running the $12/gallon oil as I've been doing for years, and not think twice about it.

Here is is. I looked at it just a week or so ago so I dug through the history on my phone.

The link in the thread is dead but the article was cut and pasted in this thread by the guy.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1354076-diesel-oil-lab-tests.html

 

[shiftpro]

Walmart and cheap oil is all about Rotella T4 for me. It's $80 Beaver bucks for a 20 gal pail. Flat cams love it!

 

[K5_489]

Walmart and cheap oil is all about Rotella T4 for me. It's $80 Beaver bucks for a 20 gal pail. Flat cams love it!

You're getting 20 gallon pails at a Walmart? Is that a rural thing? I don't think I've ever seen anything bigger than a 2 or 2.5 gallon jug at the Walmarts around here, and even those are diesel oils only. All the gas motor oils only come in 1 gallon or 5 quart jugs.

 

[Goldie Driver]

Here is is. I looked at it just a week or so ago so I dug through the history on my phone.

The link in the thread is dead but the article was cut and pasted in this thread by the guy.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1354076-diesel-oil-lab-tests.html

Wish they had tested some 10W40's as that is my preferred weight.

Not sure that you can assume that Brand X 10W30 is a superior oil that the same would hold true about the other weights.

Also interesting about the zinc - if it is a misconception, then it seems pretty common, even among mechanics.

 

[80BrownK10]

Wish they had tested some 10W40's as that is my preferred weight.

Not sure that you can assume that Brand X 10W30 is a superior oil that the same would hold true about the other weights.

Also interesting about the zinc - if it is a misconception, then it seems pretty common, even among mechanics.

I thought the same thing. But often mechanics can be some of the sort wives tale perpetuators. Although I ha e seen some who I would count as credible talking about needing more zinc than a normal oil provides. When talking about flat tappets. Ex, the Mobil 1 5w30 is not the best, useing a zinc oil high in zinc is best. But that any normal well worn or broken in engine doesn't need a high zinc oil all off the shelf oils will do just fine.

That said I am going to change mine this winter and use the older CJ speck traveler diesel oil.

 

[lcfman]

I have had good luck with Joe Gibbs break in oil.

 

[Tonyg123]

I used 10w30 with a breakin additive for 20 to 25 min. run time at 2000 rpms. Changed oil and filter and i was on my way

 

[Maxgforce]

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[gmachinz]

Again...an oil thread with 100% opinions yet no factual data-interesting.