Brand Recommendations for front end components.

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Vbb199

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350, 502
So many of you know ive put alot of personal time and money into my suburban to make the "all around" rig it is. It tows over 6k good, runs down the highway at 85-95 mph with yelling its head off, i can hit 65 mph from a stop in about 9 or 10 seconds. Big ****, Whatever. Im working on a all around truck performs like a newer truck. I know it'll never be a new truck, but my goal for it was to be reliable, not a falling apart shitbox that can barely make it to the gas pump.


SO, i have alot of big dreams for over the winter. One being, my front suspension and steering on my suburban. Its time has came, i was inspecting it all, its getting worn. And presumably the worn out front swaybar bushings and shocks is what is causing my front tires to "bounce" and cup them (thats not really the discussion here)


I will be replacing tie rods, centerlink, pitman arm, idler arm, both upper and lower balljoints,upper/lower control arm bushings, and upper / lower sway bar bushings as well.


I want recommendations for brands. I dont want a bashing session either of fuggin oreilly masterpro either.
****'s junk. You know, i know it, we all know it.


Give me some feedback guys! :)
It'll be getting a total front end overhaul (2wd), and then an alignment and new front tires.

Thinking 600-1000$ would be the most i wanna spend on physical parts.
I do all the labor, i have all the tools for a total IFS service/overhaul on hand.
 

Vbb199

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Engine Size
350, 502
I used Moog on mine. I found I was money ahead buying all four A-arms with ball joints and bushings already installed.


What did that run you for a total front end overhaul (parts)?
 

legopnuematic

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My 79 I reused all hard parts (control arms, spindles), Moog problem solver line for ball joints, tie-rods, idler, and pitman arm, Moog stock replacement front springs. Energy Suspension black poly bushings, Timken for the bearings and seals, not needed but I got QA1 solid tie-rod adjusters.

Following the recommendation of someone on here, I also boxed the lower control arms around the bushing holes with some 1/8 flat stock welded and fitted to shape, prior to removing the old bushing shells.

I have purchased all of this same stuff for when I do my 76's front end rebuild.

For my Dart I also used all MOOG and Timken parts, in my few drives around the neighborhood all seems good.

All of the Moog Problem Solver parts that I have purchased have said made in USA on the boxes, same with Timken, with exception of their seals, think those say India. Buy it all through Rock-Auto.

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Big Chip

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What did that run you for a total front end overhaul (parts)?
Maybe $600-$700 if I remember correctly but that didn't include springs. The only thing that didn't get replaced were the actual tie rods. Pitman arm, idler, sway bar bushings and all tie rod ends were replaced.

Of course the control arms came with ball joints and shafts installed. It would have been less money to replace the parts individually but it was a lot less time doing it the way I did.
 

Vbb199

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Truck Model
89 Suburban R1500, 79 C10
Engine Size
350, 502
My 79 I reused all hard parts (control arms, spindles), Moog problem solver line for ball joints, tie-rods, idler, and pitman arm, Moog stock replacement front springs. Energy Suspension black poly bushings, Timken for the bearings and seals, not needed but I got QA1 solid tie-rod adjusters.

Following the recommendation of someone on here, I also boxed the lower control arms around the bushing holes with some 1/8 flat stock welded and fitted to shape, prior to removing the old bushing shells.

I have purchased all of this same stuff for when I do my 76's front end rebuild.

For my Dart I also used all MOOG and Timken parts, in my few drives around the neighborhood all seems good.

All of the Moog Problem Solver parts that I have purchased have said made in USA on the boxes, same with Timken, with exception of their seals, think those say India. Buy it all through Rock-Auto.

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Maybe $600-$700 if I remember correctly but that didn't include springs. The only thing that didn't get replaced were the actual tie rods. Pitman arm, idler, sway bar bushings and all tie rod ends were replaced.

Of course the control arms came with ball joints and shafts installed. It would have been less money to replace the parts individually but it was a lot less time doing it the way I did.


Well ****... this is good info guys...thanks.... my old man is giving me a beefy holiday bonus, so im gonna spend that on a total front end restoration and alignment.

Some of my tie rods and such are loosey goosey and need replaced. Sounds like Moog is the way to go then.
 

Vbb199

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Engine Size
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Im considering also pulling my rear suspension, doing new bearings and seals in the rear axle, as well as a new 4.10 ring and pinion, may go ahead and break down my leafs and all that **** and have everything cleaned up and painted.


My end goal is to totally restore the truck, but a good starter is the suspension and all its components.

I want fresh, clean, painted stuff that works like new.

Then one day ill pull my body, motor, and trans and do the frame.



Actual body work will come when i have a 2nd car thats as reliable as my suburban.
 

TubeTruck

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I've always used MOOG. They are owned by Energy Suspension, or MOOG owns them? Either way, same company lol
 

Vbb199

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89 Suburban R1500, 79 C10
Engine Size
350, 502
Ive heard questionable **** about moog anf energy suspension, thats why i wanted input from guys who have ran the parts.



In regards to like oreilly masterpro like i said earlier..
....

I had a OEM lower balljoint fail on my 90 burb i had... replaced it with a masterpro....i got about 8 months out of it and it seperated on me in my driveway :eek:

Yea...... ive never used them since.

Ill see if i can find that pic
 

Vbb199

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Thanks masterpro.

The shaft and ball just popped out of the pressed in body

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hunters628

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I have found in the last 5 years the quality of moog parts has declined rapidly. We had to warranty out 3 sets of moog ball joints on my dads truck in a year. They were bought out by some Chinese company and the parts are junk now. I use Detroit Axle stuff on my k10 and have no complaints. Prices are good. Parts are high quality. Seems to be a favorite of jeep guys too. Check them out. Upper and lower ball joints for a 10 bolt are about $50 for all 4.
 

Vbb199

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Vince
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Truck Model
89 Suburban R1500, 79 C10
Engine Size
350, 502
I have found in the last 5 years the quality of moog parts has declined rapidly. We had to warranty out 3 sets of moog ball joints on my dads truck in a year. They were bought out by some Chinese company and the parts are junk now. I use Detroit Axle stuff on my k10 and have no complaints. Prices are good. Parts are high quality. Seems to be a favorite of jeep guys too. Check them out. Upper and lower ball joints for a 10 bolt are about $50 for all 4.


This is a 2wd tho, not seeing the same kinda of pounding a 4x4 will see
 

hunters628

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This is a 2wd tho, not seeing the same kinda of pounding a 4x4 will see
Gotcha missed that part. My dads truck was a 4x4 but never saw anything other than pavement and our gravel driveway. They still failed. Front end parts are something I wouldn’t cheap out on. Just my 2 cents.
 

idahovette

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Do what @legopnuematic did and box the lower arms, lots easier to remove and install bushings plus reinforcing the lowers that always seem to get mangled by rocks, parking blocks, or something.
 

Frankenchevy

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Unfortunately moog and timken are getting hit or miss on where they’re made. For that reason I like to get that stuff local so I can read the box and look at the part. You may spend a couple hundred bucks more on the parts, but divide that over the life of the parts—it’s not a big deal over 50k+
 

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